mine got tested real good last sat in the slick woods of clay and pine stray. worked 10 out of 10 in auto. selected 4h when we entered the lease and drove normal the entire miles in the woods on the slick roads(paths)

 

One thing to mention if you put it in 4wd low it wont engage unless you put it in neutral first.

 

My 2020 seems to work ok. But , my 16 didn’t . got it suck a couple of times in 2wd, could move at all. Had to get out and put the hubs in lock to get the 4wd to work. I am pretty hard n my trucks, I tend to go places with them that some folks wouldn’t try with a atv. I am somewhat new to Fords. I never had any trouble with the 4wd on my dodges. I still be driving a dodge if they weren’t built south of the border.

 

Well, the 6.7 L Power Stroke is made south of the border also. Just FYI.

 

I engaged mine today. Was stuck on a gravel surface with the *** end downhill. Switched to 4x4 sitting still and it engaged in about 1 sec. II should have tried the locker first because I haven't used it yet. I'd get yours looked at.

 

Ay Chihuahua!!!

 

What year Dodges? And I assume that you are talking about pre-2009 when they went to Ram since you specifically said "dodges"
Because the 2nd Gen Dodges used CAD (center axle disconnect)...basically a split shaft on the long side (passenger side) that had a splined sleeve to connect the shafts when 4WD was engaged. It was operated by vacuum
The 3rd Gen Dodges did away with that, and only used the transfer case to engage the front wheels. The front 4WD components were always turning with the front tires...a solid connection from the tires to the driveshaft.
The 4th Gens, under the Ram name, they went back to the CAD design, but it uses an electric motor now instead of vacuum.

I had two 3rd Gens and a 4th Gen.

The 3rd Gen system "worked better", since there was nothing to fail or engage/disengage, but it (and the CAD system) caused a lot more wear and tear on the u-joints, resulting in needing to have them replaced much sooner and more often.
The 4th Gen CAD system was always slow to engage and clunky.

There are $1200-2k free-spin kits to "fix" the 3rd Gens, and there are $2k+ solid axleshafts to 'fix" the 4th Gens. The only thing needed to "fix" a Superduty is to get your lazy butt out of the drivers seat and turn the hubs manually.

 

"The only thing needed to "fix" a Super duty is to get your lazy butt out of the drivers seat and turn the hubs manually. " How can you argue with that ???? You have a choice of manual or auto. I would never want the front part of 4 wheel drive running all the time and not engaged to transfer case when not needed. What a nice setup Ford has. In can only remember back to my 08 in 4 Super dutys I had 1 problem with the system, truck was brand new and came with defective hub, that's it. This is a work truck for me that's serving my needs on the road, pulling, plowing (commercially) and all I do when The goin gets tough is turn a rotary switch, if I need more I can lock the rear, boy are we spoiled.........Built in brake controller for towing........upfitter prewired factory integrated switches, massive disc brakes, pull up to your friend and push a button, the window goes down on the other side of the truck..trailer plug in to fit most trailers..........Super duty is the best truck out there.

 

Off topic but a Ram is still a Dodge. They're trying to run away from the poor quality association with the Dodge brand.

 

if your already stuck and try to use auto4x4 most likely the hubs will explode like what happened on this '17 f250. . putting to much faith in this vacuum hub system can really leave a person disapointed. as many have said, its going to fail, just matter of when

 

Yup...that's why the Warn hubs are in my Amazon shopping cart just waiting for a good deal. A little over $300 can "fix" the OEM vacuum hub issue too. Anything mechanical with moving parts can fail...lets not kid ourselves.

 

Just a small amount of finesse prevents that from happening.
When one shifts to 4HI then immediately stands on the throttle............BOOM.......for sure.
With the torque that these modern engines are making; Clubfoot Clodhopper will be lucky if he doesn’t take out the whole front end.

 

Agreed. Better an outer hub versus a ring and pinion, u-joint, or axle shaft though! The best thing about our Dana 60, is that when any of those things go, you can still get home under your own power once you get out of whatever situation you got yourself into. That's why our Dana 60's are so sought after for Jeep swaps. I've been thinking about doing a Dana 60/14 bolt swap into my JK Wrangler for a couple of years now. If you do it yourself though, you're still over 10k into it, by the time you're done. Assuming you did it right with gears, lockers, and the right axle/truss swap kit. I've managed to wheel hard and be fine with my 37's on beadlocks after building up my axles to the max and running hydro assist steering...but there's going to come a time when it's had enough.

 

Amazon hint if you don’t know it. Site https://camelcamelcamel.com/ lets you look at price history and set a price where an item and will notify you when it reaches your set price. I use it to monitor oil prices and other items.

 

Why not just disconnect the vacuum from the hubs you have and use them manually. Seems to me that would have the same effect and not cost any more than a vacuum cap.