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The Curt will do you just fine if you don't want to go with the super hitch. And no, any other hitch will not work as the X rear frame is exclusive to it.
Correct, the pickup truck hitches will not work on an EX as the rear frame sections are different, the truck hitch will mount but the receiver will be pointed down about 30 degrees.
The Curt seems to be a good replacement that pretty closely matches the factory hitch. The SuperHitch from TorkLift is a very stout piece of hardware, I love mine but I needed something a little stronger than the factory unit, our TT's tongue weight is over 1800lbs, but its obviously overkill for a rig that doesn't see as much weight.
The lowest tow rating for any year EX was 10K, and that was later increased to 12K (or 12.5 I don't recall) by the use of slightly larger hitch to frame bolts, the hitch was exactly the same except for having the holes for those bolts matched to size.
If you are going to DIY the hitch replacement have a plan in place for dealing with the round headed bolts, they can be a real pain to deal with. I found that dropping the tank, which is a fairly easy job, to give the best hitch access. The factory used blue thread locker on the bolts, so a bit of heat from a propane torch will make spinning them out much easier, just watch that flame if you leave the tank in place...........
Ha, I had no idea! Yes, it's a serious piece. The Curt wasn't even available when I got mine. Torklift makes some great products, really liking their steps too.
Ha, I had no idea! Yes, it's a serious piece. The Curt wasn't even available when I got mine. Torklift makes some great products, really liking their steps too.
Correct, the pickup truck hitches will not work on an EX as the rear frame sections are different, the truck hitch will mount but the receiver will be pointed down about 30 degrees.
The Curt seems to be a good replacement that pretty closely matches the factory hitch. The SuperHitch from TorkLift is a very stout piece of hardware, I love mine but I needed something a little stronger than the factory unit, our TT's tongue weight is over 1800lbs, but its obviously overkill for a rig that doesn't see as much weight.
The lowest tow rating for any year EX was 10K, and that was later increased to 12K (or 12.5 I don't recall) by the use of slightly larger hitch to frame bolts, the hitch was exactly the same except for having the holes for those bolts matched to size.
If you are going to DIY the hitch replacement have a plan in place for dealing with the round headed bolts, they can be a real pain to deal with. I found that dropping the tank, which is a fairly easy job, to give the best hitch access. The factory used blue thread locker on the bolts, so a bit of heat from a propane torch will make spinning them out much easier, just watch that flame if you leave the tank in place...........
Seems like having double beams (or whatever they call them) inserted into the receiver would seriously strengthen the whole deal.
I know as rust free as my Ex is, it's still got some 'egging' starting in the hitch pin hole area, so I'm glad to see these are reinforced.
Sorry for the temporary hijack OP!
No, on the double beam insert, I use a Hensley Arrow which uses a unique (but very similar to the Pro-Pride) stinger drawbar, so that double deal would not be a usable option for me.
Many times the hitch pin hole egging can be caused by the bent end of the hitch pin working into the hole then hogging that hole out a little as you move down the road. By placing a small hose clamp right on the pin just before the bend that can be avoided, I use a factory style squeeze clamp on mine and have not seen any egging of the hole on either the factory hitch or the SuperHitch in over 47K heavy towing miles.
No, on the double beam insert, I use a Hensley Arrow which uses a unique (but very similar to the Pro-Pride) stinger drawbar, so that double deal would not be a usable option for me.
Many times the hitch pin hole egging can be caused by the bent end of the hitch pin working into the hole then hogging that hole out a little as you move down the road. By placing a small hose clamp right on the pin just before the bend that can be avoided, I use a factory style squeeze clamp on mine and have not seen any egging of the hole on either the factory hitch or the SuperHitch in over 47K heavy towing miles.
Thee egging on mine is minor, but when I get the new hitch will definitely remember this advice. If I can rep you (again) I will...for what it's worth! Still looking at the 334RLOK
I've been using a 5/8" Grade 8 bolt with washers and nyloc on mine. The bolt snugs things up nice, and stops the rattling and egging. Plus, you'll need to be carrying a 15/16" wrench and socket to steal the trailer...
Pulling a 10k enclosed race car trailer, soon to be pulling a 32' travel trailer occasionally.
I am luvvin' that Torklift receiver. Changing to a Class IV has been on my to-do; this just went on my wishlist.
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Yes, it's a serious piece. The Curt wasn't even available when I got mine. Torklift makes some great products, really liking their steps too.
