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It sounds like someone did work to the heads and did not restore to OEM condition so there is a wide variation in size you need..
Changing rods as you mention could cause more problems. If it was my car I would buy an adjustable push rod tool (about $25) to measure the length needed and use the closest available to the length you need after you add in preload.
Using sheet metal scissors I cut a baffle from 4" wide aluminum flashing which allowed me to run the engine with the valve covers off. You may want to try the same if you have room.The baffle sits just inside the lower cover gasket surface and keeps the oil off the manifold and inner fenders.
The valve stem heights could vary quite a bit without really changing the lifter preload all that much. The non adjustable rocker arms are supposed to have a ratio of about 1.73 so let's say the valve stem height is taller by .060 which is certainly possible. At the lifter that's only about .035 more lifter compression.
I just picked up some short lifters (9.56 or .060 under stock). I think will just install these in the valves that were causing a miss.
And put the engine back together for now. (Need it for work). For later I may order a set of adjustable rocker setups from ebay for about $250.
And a set of pushrods with ball at one end and cup at the other, to fit the new rockers. Then when I have time I can install these and try to run it with
the valve covers off using oil baffles like you advise, and set the valves using a vacuum gauge and by ear.
The adjustable pushrod...with shaft rockers and very uneven valve stems, that sounds like it would take me forever.
Any more comments are welcome and thank you for these so far.
The rockers really shouldn't oil excessively. Here's a link that I've posted before of a 428 running on my dyno. This engine has a hydraulic roller with about .550 lift or so and I made it work using the stock non adjustable rocker arms. I think that this engine oils the rocker arms about the right amount for an FE and idling with the cover removed was no problem it didn't through out very much oil.
For future reference should someone try to do it- I tried to adjust the adjustable rockers on the FE with the engine running and you cannot do it because the rocker (and adjuster) is moving to fast.
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The way I adjusted them was with the engine off and the other valve on the cylinder compressed, loosen the adjuster to add clearance to the push rod, then tighten until you feel there is no clearance to the push rod, then tighten it further to add your preload.
For future reference should someone try to do it- I tried to adjust the adjustable rockers on the FE with the engine running and you cannot do it because the rocker (and adjuster) is moving to fast.
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The way I adjusted them was with the engine off and the other valve on the cylinder compressed, loosen the adjuster to add clearance to the push rod, then tighten until you feel there is no clearance to the push rod, then tighten it further to add your preload.
It was messy, but I used to adjust the solids on my 390FE routinely when it was warmed up and idling...about 1100 rpm...wouldn't idle much slower. That's the way to achieve the most accurate adjustment after the initial cylinder-by-cylinder cold setting.
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