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As long as there is some preload I don't see how adding more will make the valve train any quieter unless you've got the lifter adjusted to be nearly bottomed out and if the lifter is very leaky(poor quality); instead of leaking down the expected .006 is actually leaking much more maybe .020. If the lifter was adjusted to be only .006 from the bottom and it couldn't bleed of any more than that amount it would be quieter.
The valvetrain probably would also run quieter if solid lifters where used and set to have a lash that's .006 X the rocker ratio.
It made a big difference.. Same exact problem in a 390- quiet when first started but when engine warms up they start ticking. We are also running full oil pressure when warm. There maybe something different or wrong between these and standard lifters because they changed the recommended preload after the product was released for sale. I have the earlier and later set of directions and they call for a different preload.
I don't know why that would work but I'd bet that the older ones were domestically sourced and the newer ones that they have been selling are imported. Maybe getting the plunger farther down into the bore in the lifter seals it up better if there's some taper inside of the body.
"reasonable priced sources for custom length pushrods...".
My 390 was on a dyno tuner a week ago and I was told the valves are a little too tight on 3 of the cylinders.
I plan to pull some pushrods, get the length, and order some shorter ones.
Who sells custom lengths?
And, how much shorter would you guess I needed to go. Just runs a little rough on idle. When warmed up.
Sorry to butt in here but I saw your comment above and I couldn't resist.
Most of the "performance" pushrods on the market are made by Trend and they will make whatever you want but be prepared, pushrods are expensive. With that said you might check Sealed Power and other engine parts catalogs just to see if they might offer a stock replacement pushrod for the 390 that's .050 shorter.
"reasonable priced sources for custom length pushrods...".
My 390 was on a dyno tuner a week ago and I was told the valves are a little too tight on 3 of the cylinders.
I plan to pull some pushrods, get the length, and order some shorter ones.
Who sells custom lengths?
And, how much shorter would you guess I needed to go. Just runs a little rough on idle. When warmed up.
Sorry to butt in here but I saw your comment above and I couldn't resist.
See the link below with my previous post including details on ball size. My Comp Lifters required a 5/16" ball. Suggest you measure the ends on yours as well as length just in case the lifters or rocker assembly was replaced with aftermarket. Custom will cost you about $10 each.
To determine length I bought the adjustable push rod kit with the proper size ***** on the end. Adjusted length so there was no preload on the lifter. Remove and measure then add the recommended preload. I would add .030" for preload unless your lifter supplier recommends a different preload.
My recent experience was with the Comp Cams, I am having other issues (occasional backfire through carburetor) which I am not sure are related to the cam or lifters.
My previous experience dating back 25 years with Crane Cams was good but I built engines with RV grade cams, not high performance.
A recent high performance install was a custom grind designed for a heavily built 351W with a blower on it. Also worked out good. Forgot who I bought that one from.
Thunderkiss, thx. I called napa just now after reading your post.
I ordered a few pushrods from them that are .030" under.
9.57" long, .375 ball diameter. About 5 bucks apiece.
Any tricks about changing pushrods? Do I need to take the rocker arm shafts completely off?
Yes, rocker arm shafts must come off. Turn all the bolts out about a half turn or so at a time to keep the shaft straight. Make note of where the bolts go, one goes in the oil feed and is different, has to go back in the same hole. Make sure the pushrods are actually in the lifter, you should be able to see with a flashlight.
putting the rocker shaft back on is a pita, just make the pushrods go in the rocker hole then tighten same as you took apart, half turn at a time. Torque should be 40#s
It sounds like someone did work to the heads and did not restore to OEM condition so there is a wide variation in size you need..
Changing rods as you mention could cause more problems. If it was my car I would buy an adjustable push rod tool (about $25) to measure the length needed and use the closest available to the length you need after you add in preload.
Using sheet metal scissors I cut a baffle from 4" wide aluminum flashing which allowed me to run the engine with the valve covers off. You may want to try the same if you have room.The baffle sits just inside the lower cover gasket surface and keeps the oil off the manifold and inner fenders.
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