Help! Stalling problems... again!
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
This is all that I saw on NAPAOLINE.
Echlin Fuel System Idle Air Control Valve
CRB 21945 $ 81.49
w/ OEM # E9TZ-9F715-B
Echlin Fuel System Idle Air Control Valve
CRB 229574 $ 54.99
w/ OEM # 96TZ-9F715-AB
To find the correct IAC, I thought that you just needed to supply the Calibration Number to the FORD dealer.
Echlin Fuel System Idle Air Control Valve
CRB 21945 $ 81.49
w/ OEM # E9TZ-9F715-B
Echlin Fuel System Idle Air Control Valve
CRB 229574 $ 54.99
w/ OEM # 96TZ-9F715-AB
To find the correct IAC, I thought that you just needed to supply the Calibration Number to the FORD dealer.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Of all my luck! I replaced my IAC (F0TE 9F715 B1A oem#) with a neihoff 21764 IAC. My parts guy said it's the right one. And to top it all off IT HASN'T STOPPED MY STALLING PROBLEMS! I reset computer and everything! Arghhhhhhh! Back to the drawing board. It's not the IAC I guess.
To recap the problem: when I stop with my foot on the brake for more than 3 or more seconds and then put my foot on the gas again to go it almost stalls and many times does so. I have to keep my foot slightly on the accelerator at stop lights so that it idles higher. As long as the throttle is slightly open there's no problem. Help!
In the morning I'm going to try dumbing the computer by disconnecting the MAF and TPS. We'll see what that does. I don't have a way (other than paying someone to do it) to read the datastream. I guess that's my next option. Any other suggestions?
To recap the problem: when I stop with my foot on the brake for more than 3 or more seconds and then put my foot on the gas again to go it almost stalls and many times does so. I have to keep my foot slightly on the accelerator at stop lights so that it idles higher. As long as the throttle is slightly open there's no problem. Help!
In the morning I'm going to try dumbing the computer by disconnecting the MAF and TPS. We'll see what that does. I don't have a way (other than paying someone to do it) to read the datastream. I guess that's my next option. Any other suggestions?
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 1
From: Orland USA
aletheuo
Too bad you don't know somebody taking a auto repair course at their High School or Collage. That would be a good one for them to find the problem on. Or maybe you could call them yourself and let them know what you have. Could be they'll help you out cheaply.
Too bad you don't know somebody taking a auto repair course at their High School or Collage. That would be a good one for them to find the problem on. Or maybe you could call them yourself and let them know what you have. Could be they'll help you out cheaply.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Well - I think it's the EEC Coolant Temp Sensor that was replaced less than 4 months ago. Here's why:
I got it up to normal operating temp and then pulled the wire from the sensor. Then I drove it. PROBLEM GONE!!!!! I'm hoping this is my issue then.
But... I tried to remove the sensor but it's a nylon one from Napa. Looks like it'll break if I crank on it too much. I've tried a couple times but it seems really stuck. Is it 15/16"? Will it break?
You think this is my issue?
I got it up to normal operating temp and then pulled the wire from the sensor. Then I drove it. PROBLEM GONE!!!!! I'm hoping this is my issue then.
But... I tried to remove the sensor but it's a nylon one from Napa. Looks like it'll break if I crank on it too much. I've tried a couple times but it seems really stuck. Is it 15/16"? Will it break?
You think this is my issue?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 122
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Replaced the engine temp sensor and now my van runs like a champ! Got the part replaced under warranty. What a lot of messing around, though, through all this. I think I know my van inside and out now.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 35
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Great news.
I've bought many a parts that went bad. Sometimes even in the same day. Most have been aftermarket parts.
Speaking of Cooling parts...I was working on my system today.
I put in an electric 16" radiator fan w/ thermo switch, then changed the oil. Tomorrow, I'll flush the radiator, then change the transmission oil and fuel filter. Awhile back, I put a drain plug in my transmission pan to make changing the oil easier.
I've bought many a parts that went bad. Sometimes even in the same day. Most have been aftermarket parts.
Speaking of Cooling parts...I was working on my system today.
I put in an electric 16" radiator fan w/ thermo switch, then changed the oil. Tomorrow, I'll flush the radiator, then change the transmission oil and fuel filter. Awhile back, I put a drain plug in my transmission pan to make changing the oil easier.
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 35
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I put a FRAM Sure Drain kit (SD-2) on my oil pan. Then, I decided to use one on my transmission pan. I got them both at Wal-Mart.
Looking at my 1991 3.0L tranny pan, there is a circle depression close to the middle of the pan that is at the lowest point. Taking the pan off, I noticed that the filter above has a sizeable hole for the fluid to drain, directly above the pan’s circle. I made a mark on the pan, which was directly under the filter's hole. Next, I drilled a hole using a step drill to prevent burs, since the pan’s metal is thin. Insert the SD-2 with copper washer into the pan from the outside, then secure from the inside with a nut. Tighten to 25 ft-lb. Choose a metric nut with a 1.5mm thread. Make sure that the nut is not taller than the threads on the SD-2. Surprisingly, most of the oil drains with about a cup left in the tranny pan.
My van is a 2WD. I drive it off-road once in a while. So, far I have never hit the SD-2 drain plugs. Most of the time, I bottom out on my trailer hitch, when I drop off a curb onto the street.
Looking at my 1991 3.0L tranny pan, there is a circle depression close to the middle of the pan that is at the lowest point. Taking the pan off, I noticed that the filter above has a sizeable hole for the fluid to drain, directly above the pan’s circle. I made a mark on the pan, which was directly under the filter's hole. Next, I drilled a hole using a step drill to prevent burs, since the pan’s metal is thin. Insert the SD-2 with copper washer into the pan from the outside, then secure from the inside with a nut. Tighten to 25 ft-lb. Choose a metric nut with a 1.5mm thread. Make sure that the nut is not taller than the threads on the SD-2. Surprisingly, most of the oil drains with about a cup left in the tranny pan.
My van is a 2WD. I drive it off-road once in a while. So, far I have never hit the SD-2 drain plugs. Most of the time, I bottom out on my trailer hitch, when I drop off a curb onto the street.
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