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I've now used three of the summit brand aluminum radiators. Each one lasted three years, more or less. Each one developed leaks where the side tank meets the fins. Now I'm going back to the copper and brass style. I would not recommend these to anyone.
What was the failure? Stress cracks or corrosion? Most of the failures I see in aluminum heat exchangers are from the coolant. Aluminum in a cooling system requires nitrite free coolant.
Last edited by ford390gashog; Apr 13, 2021 at 04:53 PM.
Of course. Aluminum rads need special fluid. And my super special Azone anti freeze isn't good enough. Well, I'm switching back to copper and brass anyways. Thx.
From a chemistry point in a light duty gas application look for a borate and nitrite free coolant. With that said overall consideration should be taken on engine gaskets and seals. It's hard to beat a HOAT coolant like Motorcraft Gold or Zerex ZO-5 especially in systems that were conventional green and have been flushed fully and are running a aluminum radiator.
If using a brass radiator then it's hard to beat a well balanced ELC like Rotella or Delo, these are also available in NF versions if desired as these use a different buffer for brass. The ones to stay away from in non closed loop systems are ones that contain 2-EHA (Dex-Cool). This is found in most universal coolants.
In my 71 Bronco I have an aluminium radiator and the PO was very aware of the need to run the proper type antifreeze for an aluminium radiator. On his suggestion, I have continued to run in it what I refer to as "Asian Blue" antifreeze that I get from from O'reilly's. No issue in all these years of owning it.
Valvoline™ ZEREX™ Asian Vehicle has been designed to meet the requirements of Asian manufacturers, which specify a silicate free HOAT formula with a phosphate additive to protect their cooling systems from rust and corrosion. Available in both red and blue formulas to better match your Asian vehicle’s specific requirements.
In my 71 Bronco I have an aluminium radiator and the PO was very aware of the need to run the proper type antifreeze for an aluminium radiator. On his suggestion, I have continued to run in it what I refer to as "Asian Blue" antifreeze that I get from from O'reilly's. No issue in all these years of owning it.
Valvoline™ ZEREX™ Asian Vehicle has been designed to meet the requirements of Asian manufacturers, which specify a silicate free HOAT formula with a phosphate additive to protect their cooling systems from rust and corrosion. Available in both red and blue formulas to better match your Asian vehicle’s specific requirements.
Yes the Asian spec coolant is a HOAT coolant, great qualities for long term protection. The US and German HOAT is Gold. Pretty much any HOAT will work well in a mixed metal system and is very gasket and seal safe.
Ah yea ok, I know its blue and I know (knock on wood) I have not any leaks or corrosion problems and the radiator has had LOTS of low gear high RPM use. Then long periods (months) of setting dormant. Than back to hard use and I have had it so hot one time (like 220 +) and it did not puke. Also I do not run it thru a heater core. I use an electric fan that is set up (mounted) on the outside (front) of the radiator to pull from the outside and push thru the radiator. No shroud or fan on the motor. Also have a trans cooler on the back side of the radiator. I hope Murphy and his Laws do not see these statements and I just jinxed myself.
After a little grill patch repair work.
Just had a tank replaced on the (apparently) original radiator, or at least original-style brass and steel. Thrilled to find an old-school shop that works on real radiators and was very good about trying to avoid installing an aluminum/plastic one. Installation is today's project!
Yes the Asian spec coolant is a HOAT coolant, great qualities for long term protection. The US and German HOAT is Gold. Pretty much any HOAT will work well in a mixed metal system and is very gasket and seal safe.
Hey gashog: I just wanted to say thanks for the help and all the good info that you continue to supply this forum and me. I guess most of the time I am too busy to go looking for answers. It was easier to assume that the Summit radiators were poor quality, but with the info you've provided, I can see that the problem was my cheap coolant and tap water.
Now I want to flush out the old coolant and find that my drain fitting has been snapped or somehow plugged or buggered up on my 300 block. How can I get the old out before putting the new in? Any ideas?
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