Hello, I just installed a PHP Hydra with the standard PHP tunes. If I drive on the 80hp performance and only beat on it once in a while how long can I expect my tranny to last? It is a stock ford reman with a stock reman converter with about 5000 miles on it.

 

Heat is number one killer of the trans. Install a trans cooler.

 

E40d's are very reliable just keep it cool. Add a HD triple disc low stall TC and you should have a long lasting tranny. Mine made it 800k on stock internals with 100k+ on my sig mods and heavy foot and a triple disc low stall tc.

 

Can confirm heat can kill these things, I had mine puking fluid and fried all the clutches. It goes a long way with a big cooler and a trans temp gauge to monitor temps on heavy towing up grades.

 

Good to know, I'm looking at a 30k lbs gvw cooler from Jegs. It comes with a electric fan and runs about $150. My buddy has one for his 12V Cummins mounted on his frame rail beneath the cab for 2 years now and it works great so I think I might order it and give it a try.

This is the cooler: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60389/10002/-1

 

The fan may help, but I would go with the tried and true 6.0 cooler. I recently had a 30k cooler on mine that I updated because it was getting warm without the fan just daily driving.

Ultimately depends what you're comfortable with and what you tow weight wise and where..

 

I'll consider that, I just figured with the fan I could get a little more freedom for mounting plus a little more airflow. Is it recommended to mount the new cooler inline with the old one or get rid of the original one completely?

 

I have 3/8's SD lines to to the rad cooler, then to the 26 row 6.0 cooler, and back to the E4OD. I think most with the 6.0 cooler are only running that. From all the research I did, there isn't a difference between the 26 row and 31 in terms of cooling. I can only guess the 26 is slightly thicker.

My 26 row is mounted between the radiator and the AC condenser with spacers and no issues so far. No need to bend brackets or anything crazy to fit it. It will fit into the radiator mounting holes without needing to make it fit.

Either way, let us know what you come up with. I debated a fan set up too, but decided to go this route and I haven't been disappointed. Guys like Glenn will set you straight on coolers.

 

I suggest retaining your stock cooler, and plumbing the aftermarket in series afterwards for maximum possible cooling. One thing I did note, is that with with radiator, AC condenser, intercooler, and aftermarket trans cooler all trying to dump heat to the same airflow, the AC wasn't working well, especially stopped. If you have a choice, I would put the additional trans cooler in a different airstream. One interesting location is inside the front bumper, for a long, skinny cooler. One place to not skimp is the size of additional lines; Mark K pointed out that the extra plumbing does restrict flow. Use as big of lines as you can fit.

My current setup... stock radiator and AC condenser, Banks intercooler in front of radiator and AC condenser, front bumper moved forward about 2" due to rub with stock tires, rubber air dam removed, a rectangular trans cooler sitting behind the bumper and in-line with the bumper vents (and out of airflow into the intercooler/radiator), and long-skinny 2-row cooler inside the bumper. Plumbed in series, from stock (radiator) cooler to rectangular cooler to skinny inside-bumper cooler. I don't tow heavy, but I don't want to get stranded and have to rebuild a transmission.

My $0.02. Your results will vary.

 

My e4od in my 97 has a extra large pan and the truck has a trans temp gauge. I have to push it pretty hard to get it above 160

 

Always keep the radiator trans cooler in place. No physics major here, but thermal capacity to make it attain temp and retain temp.

I would put wherever the other guys suggest to put it. My 6.4 had some comically large cooler on it, looked like an A/C condenser it was so large.

 

I would like the behind-the-bumper approach however my truck had a plow mount on it that required some creativity to slice and dice to get off however the bolts the go behind the bumper still remain and I have yet to be able to get my bumper off without destroying something else. I think I might go with the frame rail mounted approach, the only concern I have with this is snow and slush buildup due to my location in the country.

 

My old 30k tru cool was mounted behind the bumper for good air flow. I liked it there alot. Sort of made it a pain with how the lines were routed and the intercooler to get the bumper off though.

 

Without an intercooler I am guessing this process would be a little easier for me, that is if I can get my bumper off without destroying it or the frame