So as some of you may have seen, i had a 4 week hell month tryingto get my truck back running. What started as a 4 hour IP replacement turned into a 4 week fiasco. So i finally got the truck running, and it is rough. I have purchased a new Injector pump, or as new as they get for 450.00. I noticed it was slightly different from my old IP in that the new one only has one timing mark at 12:00 area of the pump and non at the 10:00-11:00. I also read where they remanufacture IP's amd set them up for either a 7.3/6.9 idi with a turbo and others without a turbo straight from the factory. I would assume that since it only has one mark that it should line up with that. But upon doing so i can tell its still running rough. Took the truck for a drive last night. Had to pull over to move the injection pump. Originally, i had put it in there with the timing mark about a 1/4" to the drivers side of the motor bay (advancing it) as that is where the 12:00 mark was sitting on my old pump. Ran rough at that setting but ran at right around 800 rpm at idle. Thats close to where it needs to be. Upon advancing it a bit my rpm's dropped to about 200 it said on the tach but ran rougher. I have never seen injection pump that was retarded most people have them advanced a bit. My old one sat about a half inch on the advance side of the noon mark. So my questions are as follows:

1. How can i tell if the pump has been set up for a turbo or non turbo?
2. How can my idle rpm drop if i am advancing the pump? I thought it would increase the rpm's.
3. Why would they only put 1 timing mark on the new pumps but not on the old ones? And yes i read about them simply cleaning up pumps and selling them as remaned pumps without actually fixing it.

I HAVE to get this thing going today. I have a job coming up and i need my truck.

 

who did you get the pump from? $450 sound awful cheap.

 

450.00 was before the core. With the core it was closer to 1000.00

 

the "Actual" timing marks are seen when the timing window is opened this may help https://oregonfuelinjection.com/serv...-installation/

as far as being able to tell how a Pump is Calibrated you need to look at the Rating Plate and compare that to the Stanadyne Calibration Data sheet, BUT that will not tell you if the pump is calibrated properly ..the shop that did the Calibration should have the information from when the work was done.

timing marks on the pump housing and the Pump Drive gear housing are usually specific only to the originally installed pump... this is why you "Roll" the old Pump into time before you remove it as it makes the new install easier especially IF you don't have a Timing Meter.

1mm of pump rotation = about 2 degrees timing movement.and 6.8 degrees per tooth IF the Drive gear is off.

Best thing is to set to the 12 O'clock marks and should be close enough to run..but remember those marks were stamped after the engine was originally timed.

 

somewhere in this mess of forums i stumbled across one that said the timing marks are only meant for the factory pump. I got mine new from oriellys and it only came w one mark at noon. The forum said to match the factory setting, retard the ip 1/16" to the passenger side then go from there. That was pretty spot on. I rotated it 1/16" to the passenger side, paint marked it, and it runs pretty smooth. I also put in new injectors and fuel lines both rubber and steel. I definitely dont have an air intrusion since it fires right up no problem now. At least thats how i feel with everything ive read. I believe it is in time. The only problem i am having sounds like an exhaust leak now? Really loud out the drivers side like the motors trying to punch through the heads. Will an exhaust leak cause a slight misfire due to lack of back pressure? Its definitely louder than it has ever been but runs and feels like its firing on time. I did split the 2 to 1 exhaust into 2 straight pipes. Wondering if a weld didnt break somewhere. And yes, i did pull the front off the motor and set the gears back into time and put it at tdc.