When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The truck should realize there is a trailer plugged in if you have trailer prep, whether you have the brake controller or not. If you aren't getting that notification then there is something wrong in the brain of your truck, or between your plug-in at the back and the rest of the truck. You'll need to start at the plug to check for power (might as well borrow or rent a plug tester, they're fairly cheap if you don't already have a multimeter), and then you'll need to start chasing connections and wires.
If you ARE getting notification that the trailer is plugged in but it isn't saying your brakes are working, I believe this is something that won't light up unless you're either pushing the slide or have an issue, though you can probably watch braking effort if you stay on the brake controller screen under towing - on my wife's '19 XLT, we plug in the trailer and get a notification that one has been plugged in, and then there are no other notifications unless we go to the towing->brake controller screen, or use the brake controller slider.
How about trying a different trailer plugged into your truck.?
Ive tried 3 trailers. All 3 work fine on other vehicles
OR connect your trailer to a different truck.
Looking to eliminate either the trailer or the controller - hope something helps.
Originally Posted by JKBrad
There was a change for 2018. Are you sure it’s the correct part? The older one will fit and plug in, but the truck won’t recognize it.
Part # JL3z-2c006-aa is the 18+(the one I have)
Originally Posted by 99powerstrokedF250
The truck should realize there is a trailer plugged in if you have trailer prep, whether you have the brake controller or not. If you aren't getting that notification then there is something wrong in the brain of your truck, or between your plug-in at the back and the rest of the truck. You'll need to start at the plug to check for power (might as well borrow or rent a plug tester, they're fairly cheap if you don't already have a multimeter), and then you'll need to start chasing connections and wires.
If you ARE getting notification that the trailer is plugged in but it isn't saying your brakes are working, I believe this is something that won't light up unless you're either pushing the slide or have an issue, though you can probably watch braking effort if you stay on the brake controller screen under towing - on my wife's '19 XLT, we plug in the trailer and get a notification that one has been plugged in, and then there are no other notifications unless we go to the towing->brake controller screen, or use the brake controller slider.
I get notification that trailer is attached, then without even breathing is says disconnected and then connected again. Not moving, not even running. Sitting perfectly still.
All lights work fine, even when trailer says disconnected
Originally Posted by Robbgt
Edit - ignore, looks like those were enabled with IDS already.
So the gain shows up on cluster when you change it? Or not even getting that far?
I get notification that trailer is attached, then without even breathing is says disconnected and then connected again. Not moving, not even running. Sitting perfectly still.
All lights work fine, even when trailer says disconnected
No, I see no gain option in cluster
If you see no gain option in the cluster then it is not properly activated, you'll need to make sure it's the correct IBC and make sure everything has been unlocked properly. This was why, for $150, I just had the dealer do it on my wife's truck.
If it is connecting and disconnecting that rapidly, you likely have a short in the wiring somewhere between the computer and the trailer. If you can try a different, known-good trailer to see what the result is, you can rule out if the issue is in the trailer.
If you see no gain option in the cluster then it is not properly activated, you'll need to make sure it's the correct IBC and make sure everything has been unlocked properly. This was why, for $150, I just had the dealer do it on my wife's truck.
If it is connecting and disconnecting that rapidly, you likely have a short in the wiring somewhere between the computer and the trailer. If you can try a different, known-good trailer to see what the result is, you can rule out if the issue is in the trailer.
This is Ford doing it, just in my driveway. Guy is a senior ford tech using the ISD
3 trailers, all work on other vehicles with no problems
This is Ford doing it, just in my driveway. Guy is a senior ford tech using the ISD
3 trailers, all work on other vehicles with no problems
Ah. I missed the part about it being a Ford Tech doing it.
Not sure what is going on then. The connected/disconnected issue sounds like a short somewhere on the truck side.
Do you have the towing submenu in your DIC? Is the gain readout in that submenu? It is on my wife's. If you don't have it then that has not been unlocked, or may be missing from your truck's programming and needs to be added? I'm not going to claim I know how the computers are programmed in these trucks.
Maybe a bent or loose pin in a harness connector? A pinched harness somewhere? Check every connector and make sure it is fully seated. If it clicks when you press on it, it wasn’t.
Maybe a bent or loose pin in a harness connector? A pinched harness somewhere? Check every connector and make sure it is fully seated. If it clicks when you press on it, it wasn’t.
Been there done that. Going to have to start oming out the harness.
Just what I wanted to do in my new truck
I know it'd be a PITA, but you're already in that territory - how about trying another controller? Maybe you got a defective one... If it were to work, Ford should honor the warranty on the bad one.