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I want to make sure this truck is good to go for a long time. I went ahead and ordered an oil cooler seal kit as well as a new coolant tank. Watching lots of Dieseltechron videos. Sucks that guy lost his life in a car crash.
I am unable to change the MGP setting to psi. there is only one in the listing to use. Please advise if I am screwing up here.
Take a look at the second half of post #5 in the FORScan Q&A thread for how to change the units on the laptop version of this software. The example shows how to do it with ICP, but it's the same process for MGP.
SOOO...I unplugged the ICP sensor this morning and the truck will NOT start at all. I also plugged it back in and started the truck. I tried unplugging it while engine running and it dies immediately. I believe that tells me the IPR is not getting it done. If the truck is in limp mode setting on the ICP/IPR request and it is not opening enough to send the proper amount of pressure to the injectors then the IPR is faulty correct?
I agree. With an unplugged ICP, the PCM is sending a a default value for IPR% at idle (about 14.45) to obtain the expected ICP (about 725psi), and not getting it, so the engine dies. It was taking an IPR% of 25 to get a good idle ICP over 600psi. Betting an IPR swap will get it done.
Does Ford make an IPR o-ring kit? If so what is the part number? I took my old oem one apart. That double ended piston thing (last part you can take out) was stuck pretty good. I had to bang the main body on a block of wood pretty aggressively to get it to come out. I also checked the solenoid thing with my jump box and the magnet seems to work and is pretty strong.
Does Ford make an IPR o-ring kit? If so what is the part number? I took my old oem one apart. That double ended piston thing (last part you can take out) was stuck pretty good. I had to bang the main body on a block of wood pretty aggressively to get it to come out. I also checked the solenoid thing with my jump box and the magnet seems to work and is pretty strong.
Are you sure it is plastic and not a sealant like RTV that found it's way there?
What did the gaskets and mating surfaces of the oil cooler look like?
@SkySkiJason was working on a customers truck that had a similar blockage of RTV. Not exactly the same though.
I was wrong it was not plastic chunks. Must be scaling or rust from the motor. It crushes right into dust when poked with a screwdriver. I guess it was just way overdue for some maintenance. I am going to flush it thoroughly and put fresh G-05 coolant back in there. Im doing both radiator hoses and a new tank while I have it apart
I was wrong it was not plastic chunks. Must be scaling or rust from the motor. It crushes right into dust when poked with a screwdriver. I guess it was just way overdue for some maintenance. I am going to flush it thoroughly and put fresh G-05 coolant back in there. Im doing both radiator hoses and a new tank while I have it apart
I always try to flush the cooling system before removing oil cooler. Remove block drains and let water hose run with engine running and water pouring out drains until it runs clear. Then reinstall drains and drive around the block. Then repeat drain/flush. Do this until system is CLEAN.
I would not use G05. We prefer an OAT extended life coolant like Peak Final Charge, CAT EL1, Rotella ELC, etc.
I always try to flush the cooling system before removing oil cooler. Remove block drains and let water hose run with engine running and water pouring out drains until it runs clear. Then reinstall drains and drive around the block. Then repeat drain/flush. Do this until system is CLEAN.
I would not use G05. We prefer an OAT extended life coolant like Peak Final Charge, CAT EL1, Rotella ELC, etc.
Good luck!!
Thanks for the info. I will do that. 4 gallons of coolant concentrate and distilled water for the rest correct? So after its clean I drain completely and fill with distilled water, then run. after that drain completely (put the thermostat back) and fill with coolant/distilled water for final setup.
Last edited by TimothyHixson; Apr 21, 2021 at 07:30 AM.
Thanks for all the help everyone! I picked up the o-ring kit from International Harvester and rebuilt the factory IPR. The truck seems happy now. I filled it with tap water, got it up to temperature and took for about 7 mile test drive. Everything seems perfect with no check engine light. I am going to give the cooling system a thorough flushing and get the proper fluids in it.
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