Overheating 6.0
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Joined: Dec 2019
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From: Copperopolis, Ca
Overheating 6.0
I have a 2005 Excursion 6.0 with 176k...all stock....had the water pump go out in November 2020... I replaced the water pump, degas bottle and cap, thermostat, fan clutch, all hoses, installed a coolant filter and changed to Red ELC Cat-1 coolant. Yesterday my EX started running hot between 220 and 230 while I was going up a easy grade unloaded with the fan running full speed..... when I started the down hill the EX wouldn't cool off only dropped to 219.... and then as soon as I got to a stop light the temp jumped to 250 and I saw steam coming from the engine bay... I pulled over and shut the EX down....I opened the hood and the degas was empty and there was coolant under the truck but not a lot ..... I felt the hoses and there was no pressure in them and I attempted to open the cap of the degas and it was extremely difficult to remove and wouldn't rethread when I went to put it back on.... I'm going to fill it back with water to see if I can find a leak...... does anyone have any tips or tricks or ideas what could have happened... also there was no steam coming from the tailpipe
Thanks
Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
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From: Fresno, CA
Sounds like you are loosing coolant somewhere and the temp spike you are seeing is likely air pockets in the system.
Based on your description the coolant was not blowing out degas cap, but seemed to be leaking/disappearing somewhere?
Start with the easy locations for leaks at hoses & radiator, but since you just replaced all of that my money is on a ruptured EGR cooler. Pull the EGR valve and look for any signs of moisture. It should be bone dry.
head gaskets would be the next step after EGR, but since you don't seem to be blowing the degas cap that's less likely.
Based on your description the coolant was not blowing out degas cap, but seemed to be leaking/disappearing somewhere?
Start with the easy locations for leaks at hoses & radiator, but since you just replaced all of that my money is on a ruptured EGR cooler. Pull the EGR valve and look for any signs of moisture. It should be bone dry.
head gaskets would be the next step after EGR, but since you don't seem to be blowing the degas cap that's less likely.
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Leader Evaporator
Degas bottle "y" (under the degas bottle) Stainless Steel Barbed Reducing Y-Fitting
sold by Leader Evaporator
1"x1"x3/4" SS Y SKU 3428
https://leaderevaporator.com/stainle...ing-y-fitting/
Degas bottle "y" (under the degas bottle) Stainless Steel Barbed Reducing Y-Fitting
sold by Leader Evaporator
1"x1"x3/4" SS Y SKU 3428
https://leaderevaporator.com/stainle...ing-y-fitting/
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,491
Likes: 295
From: Fresno, CA
Leader Evaporator
Degas bottle "y" (under the degas bottle) Stainless Steel Barbed Reducing Y-Fitting
sold by Leader Evaporator
1"x1"x3/4" SS Y SKU 3428
https://leaderevaporator.com/stainle...ing-y-fitting/
Degas bottle "y" (under the degas bottle) Stainless Steel Barbed Reducing Y-Fitting
sold by Leader Evaporator
1"x1"x3/4" SS Y SKU 3428
https://leaderevaporator.com/stainle...ing-y-fitting/
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From: Copperopolis, Ca
I filled the system with water and found a leak at the seam on the top of the radiator.....so I know first step is to replace the radiator (any suggestions on brand?) .... had an extra degas cap that threaded on just fine....would a crack in the radiator cause the system to pressurize that much to warp the degas cap or would something else cause the pressure and that broke the radiator and degas cap?
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: West by God Virginyuh
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Yes you can re-use the hose. IIRC I just crushed the hose/plastic to the point that the plastic broke and I then removed the plastic in pieces (keeping the open end of the hose angled downwards or clamp it off below the plastic). Credit to NPCCPARTSMAN for the procedure!
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Warsaw KY
I filled the system with water and found a leak at the seam on the top of the radiator.....so I know first step is to replace the radiator (any suggestions on brand?) .... had an extra degas cap that threaded on just fine....would a crack in the radiator cause the system to pressurize that much to warp the degas cap or would something else cause the pressure and that broke the radiator and degas cap?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Has anyone wondered what set the cap relief point of 16 psi (and it was a few psi less on the earlier model years I believe)?
IMO it is the radiator pressure rating. I believe the radiator is the weak link. This is the ONLY reason I bought an aftermarket radiator. I think the OEM radiator does a great job, but I opted for something I believed to have a little more pressure rating.
IMO it is the radiator pressure rating. I believe the radiator is the weak link. This is the ONLY reason I bought an aftermarket radiator. I think the OEM radiator does a great job, but I opted for something I believed to have a little more pressure rating.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
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From: Jersey Shore
Mark, The '03 manual is not helpful. It says the testing pressure for the cooling system is 18psi, but for testing the cap use the spec on the cap itself. For my 05/30/03 build date, my still original cap is marked 16psi.
Fleet Owner
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That said, I am not sure that over time ("x" number of heat cycles), that it remains at 18 psi.
Anyway, thanks for the post/information.