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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Heater Core

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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 02:45 PM
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Heater Core

Looks like I'll have to change the heater core. 86 F150 standard cab with no A/C. How do I know if it has a high output heater or standard before taking it apart?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 02:53 PM
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It doesn't say "high output" on top of the unit under the hood somewhere? I thought they usually did.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 03:02 PM
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Not sure if you've done this search yet,

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...ZUTCP4Q4dUDCA0

FWIW, the core is easy to replace, I did mine a few years back.
If you have to, take yours out, loop the hose and drive to your local auto parts and get the matching one.

I would assume, High output was for the bigger cabs ?


 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 03:14 PM
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The only problem with taking a sample to the auto parts store is that nobody stocks anything anymore. Since the weather is warming up and the truck doesn't have A/C I suppose I could take it apart first then order the part. That makes a one day project become a 2 weekend one.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 03:18 PM
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My local NAPA seems to be able to get most parts within 2 hours. Call them and set something up. They get parts a number of times each day.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 03:55 PM
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picture of my truck's housing. Has HI OUTPUT embossed on it in raised letters
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 04:24 PM
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Thanks, I gave this truck to my son and will be at his house next weekend. I'll check it out then. I'm wondering now if I should change the blower motor while I'm at it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 04:40 PM
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My son sent me this picture. I noticed that the hoses go in differently than yours.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 04:47 PM
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By the way, easy to replace can be a relative term. I would say a truck with A/C the heater core is very easy replace, it's behind the glove box. Yours being under the hood is going to be a little more difficult.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kh0432
My son sent me this picture. I noticed that the hoses go in differently than yours.
That picture is just the standard heater (Not Hi Output). The Hi-Output heaters were common in the colder climates. I've seen quite a few of them up here in Canada. My 1980 has one, but my 1984 does not.

It's a bit of a pain to change the heater core (compare to a truck with factory AC). You have to pull the whole heater box off the firewall, and if you're lucky the screw won't be rusty.

This is what it looks like from the inside, see below. There are 3 studs in the box that pass through the firewall to the interior, and if I recall correctly in my 1984 there were M6 (so 10mm hex nuts). See red circles. There are two bolts you need to reach from inside the engine bay (see yellow circles). They go into u-clips...and if they break like they did on mine, you'll have to pull the kick panel to access.



 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 05:06 PM
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That's a good post above. Finding all of those bolts can be difficult. It's all layed out for you in the above picture.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by kh0432
Thanks, I gave this truck to my son and will be at his house next weekend. I'll check it out then. I'm wondering now if I should change the blower motor while I'm at it.

With all the junk parts out there now...if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

A note for the future if needed. I did replace the blower speed resistor a few years back with one for a mid 1980's Jeep, as it was $6.00 where the only one for a 86' F150 was the one for a truck with AC for $27.00 My blower only worked on high. Now its fine. I used duct tape to tape it in place you can see the tape in the photo


 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 05:13 PM
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Spray the studs/bolts/nuts with PB Blaster the night before your going to do this job. Areo-Kroil is better but it does cost more.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
That's a good post above. Finding all of those bolts can be difficult. It's all layed out for you in the above picture.
That bolt in the bottom yellow circle is the hardest one to reach, and you have to do it blind (unless you want to remove the passenger fender lol). The U-clips for those can break off and just spin...which makes the job less fun. I ended up going in through the kick panel and put mini visegrips on the clips to hold them. The bottom u-clip is shown below on a picture of an old cab I looked at one time (non-AC).


 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kh0432

My son sent me this picture. I noticed that the hoses go in differently than yours.

Sorry should have said. Ignore my hose routing I have the heater core bypassed
 
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