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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 08:01 AM
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Power seats problem

I have a 1990 E150 with the 5.8L, It is a conversion done by Loraine Motor Coach co. Which I assume is out of business, I couldn't find anything on them other than they were out of Loraine Ohio.

Both seats were working a couple of weeks ago.
Both of the front seats are power 6 way, There is No Relay. These seats are powered directly from the battery with a 30amp inline fuse. I have no idea if the PO did this or they came that way from the conversion company. I have power all the way up to the motors. Each switch on the seats have a common ground from the switches back to under the dash on the framing, Ground is good. Continuity on the switches say they are functioning. The problem is anytime I hit any button on the switches, I watch my VDM drop to zero. So basically I have full power until I move a switch then the power goes away until I take my finger off of the switch and then it comes right back to full voltage....Anyone care to take a stab at what the problem could be?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike1
The problem is anytime I hit any button on the switches, I watch my VDM drop to zero. So basically I have full power until I move a switch then the power goes away until I take my finger off of the switch and then it comes right back to full voltage....Anyone care to take a stab at what the problem could be?
That indicates a bad connection in the power wiring. The connection is able to pass power until a load is put on it due to high resistance.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by alloro
That indicates a bad connection in the power wiring. The connection is able to pass power until a load is put on it due to high resistance.
Ok, I'll go over the wiring connectors again, I did find where the wires just pulled right out on a couple of the connectors and I thought I fixed them, maybe I didn't crimp the new connectors well enough or maybe it's another connector that I missed. Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 02:42 PM
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Start doing your voltage tests at different places. It will help you narrow down where the problem is. Voltage goes away with switch activation means you are downstream of the problem. Voltage stays high with switch activation means you are upstream of the problem.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Start doing your voltage tests at different places. It will help you narrow down where the problem is. Voltage goes away with switch activation means you are downstream of the problem. Voltage stays high with switch activation means you are upstream of the problem.
Thank you. I'll start in on it today if I can beat the rain...lol
 
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Old Apr 5, 2021 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Start doing your voltage tests at different places. It will help you narrow down where the problem is. Voltage goes away with switch activation means you are downstream of the problem. Voltage stays high with switch activation means you are upstream of the problem.
Thank you for the suggestion, I probed it all the way back to the battery. The PO, had run the wires through the firewall and across to the battery where the connection had corroded. I'll have to rewire it into the ignition for key power instead of contact power, but at least I found the problem. Thank you again.
 
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