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I have a few things that I want to wire in to my '18 F350 that I want to run to the battery and control with a relay. Looking at the battery terminals on the battery, there is no good way to get a hot and a ground without running a wire between batteries. What I mean is, on the passenger side battery terminal, there is a stud to pick up my hot power but nothing on the negative. The drivers side battery is just the opposite, the is a stud on the negative and nothing on the positive. There doesn't appear to be any way to attach a wire on the post on either battery that doesn't have a stud due to the design on the terminal.
How are you guys hooking stuff up to the battery? Do you just change out the battery terminal ends? Is there a better route?
Agree on the ground point. There are several ground studs accessible in the engine compartment. At least one on each side and one on the firewall. Much cleaner to do that as well and reduces the cables on top of the battery.
I don't know when they added it but on my 2020 7.3 there is a terminal block that the positive battery cable goes to. There are some empty posts to add your own terminals. Don't remember noticing this on my 2017 so not sure if the 18's are like this. Of course you can also pick up power from an upfitter.
I don't know when they added it but on my 2020 7.3 there is a terminal block that the positive battery cable goes to. There are some empty posts to add your own terminals. Don't remember noticing this on my 2017 so not sure if the 18's are like this. Of course you can also pick up power from an upfitter.
^^This. I don't run anything directly to the battery, it just looks amateur in my opinion. In the fuse panel under the hood, there are 2 pins on the engine side of the fuse panel (you have to take the cover off to get at them). Just put a loop on the end of your wire and secure to the pin using the nut. Those pins are directly fed from the battery so you're essentially doing the same thing, tapping directly off the battery.
you can drill a hole to add the stud on the terminals that are missing......but...if you ever go in for electrical work...they will note any "defects".
other option is upfitter stich if you have them.
I like to run high current runs off the starter stud....remove stud nut...use a barrel bolt...then use a bolt into the barrel bolt to secure new wire eylet. fuses and wire gauges considerations taken into account.
I guess I'm an amateur. I modified the terminals on both batteries so they all have the extra post like the negative post on the driver's battery and the positive post on the passenger battery. I figure if it was good for Ford it should be good for me.
I wanted a direct battery connection for the 280 amp winch feeds I installed front and rear - using Anderson quick connects.
I drilled the terminals and tapped them with a 6mm tap. I used stainless bolts and washers for the connections. I used tin-plated lugs when I made the cables so I shouldn't have an issue with dis-similar metals causing corrosion.
I added a larger ground cable from the passenger side battery directly to an existing frame ground right below the battery. That nice heavy bolt makes for a great ground connection.
I guess I'm an amateur. I modified the terminals on both batteries so they all have the extra post like the negative post on the driver's battery and the positive post on the passenger battery. I figure if it was good for Ford it should be good for me.
I wanted a direct battery connection for the 280 amp winch feeds I installed front and rear - using Anderson quick connects.
I drilled the terminals and tapped them with a 6mm tap. I used stainless bolts and washers for the connections. I used silver-plated lugs when I made the cables so I shouldn't have an issue with dis-similar metals causing corrosion.
I added a larger ground cable from the passenger side battery directly to an existing frame ground right below the battery. That nice heavy bolt makes for a great ground connection.
that all looks great
the winch usually comes with a fuse or other current limiting gadget .....did yours?
Throwing this out as an option, though it’s not something to do of your battery is in good shape. My batteries were leaking, so I replaced them with dual post (actually four posts) AGMs. The SAE posts are used for the factory hookups and I have the spare marine terminals for anything else.
the winch usually comes with a fuse or other current limiting gadget .....did yours?
I haven't purchased the winch yet. I'm waiting for the front hitch to show up first. That said I already have an ANL fuse holder for both sides. When I use the rear connection for the 5th wheel DC / DC charger I will run with a 200 amp fuse. When using the connections for the winch or for jump starting cars I'll use a 300 or 400 amp unit.
I guess I'm an amateur. I modified the terminals on both batteries so they all have the extra post like the negative post on the driver's battery and the positive post on the passenger battery. I figure if it was good for Ford it should be good for me.
I wanted a direct battery connection for the 280 amp winch feeds I installed front and rear - using Anderson quick connects.
I drilled the terminals and tapped them with a 6mm tap. I used stainless bolts and washers for the connections. I used silver-plated lugs when I made the cables so I shouldn't have an issue with dis-similar metals causing corrosion.
I added a larger ground cable from the passenger side battery directly to an existing frame ground right below the battery. That nice heavy bolt makes for a great ground connection.
that all looks great. By ‘amateur’, I was thinking more having 3-4 18 gauge wires hanging off the battery post, not in wire loom and taped up. Just looks like a rats nest on the battery, drives me nuts when I see it. What you did looks nice and neat!
Fantastic Ideas guys!!! I run a #2 wire to a plug (Anderson) in the back of the truck as aux power in case my trailer batteries are dead. I can connect and use the jacks. Might even be able to use it as a remote set of jumper cables too. Was also thinking of using it for the on board air I am going to install but I may run it straight through the upfitter.
Throwing this out as an option, though it’s not something to do of your battery is in good shape. My batteries were leaking, so I replaced them with dual post (actually four posts) AGMs. The SAE posts are used for the factory hookups and I have the spare marine terminals for anything else.
What BCI Group Size battery did you end up using?
Can you talk about hood closure clearance, tray fitment, battery retention clamps, and how much in each of three dimensions that the alternative battery size (with dual marine terminals) deviated from the standard Group 65 battery size?
I haven't purchased the winch yet. I'm waiting for the front hitch to show up first. .
If you plan on heavy winching from the front hitch, keep an eye on the hitch......I bent mine doing this. I was able to bend it back but wasn't impressed. Big difference between a winch mount and a front receiver trailer hitch.
I have a few things that I want to wire in to my '18 F350 that I want to run to the battery and control with a relay. Looking at the battery terminals on the battery, there is no good way to get a hot and a ground without running a wire between batteries. What I mean is, on the passenger side battery terminal, there is a stud to pick up my hot power but nothing on the negative. The drivers side battery is just the opposite, the is a stud on the negative and nothing on the positive. There doesn't appear to be any way to attach a wire on the post on either battery that doesn't have a stud due to the design on the terminal.
How are you guys hooking stuff up to the battery? Do you just change out the battery terminal ends? Is there a better route?
I believe there is a sensor on the negative battery cable before the battery post.
Ford Battery Management System (BMS) -- also referred to by Ford as the Battery Control Module (BCM) -- connects to the negative terminal of the battery and monitors current, voltage, and temperature. ... If excessive battery drain is detected, the system temporarily disables some electrical systems to protect the battery.
I think Ford does not want you to ground on the neg. post for this reason. I remember reading it I believe in the chassis builders literature.
