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Can you talk about hood closure clearance, tray fitment, battery retention clamps, and how much in each of three dimensions that the alternative battery size (with dual marine terminals) deviated from the standard Group 65 battery size?
I believe there is a sensor on the negative battery cable before the battery post.
Ford Battery Management System (BMS) -- also referred to by Ford as the Battery Control Module (BCM) -- connects to the negative terminal of the battery and monitors current, voltage, and temperature. ... If excessive battery drain is detected, the system temporarily disables some electrical systems to protect the battery.
I think Ford does not want you to ground on the neg. post for this reason. I remember reading it I believe in the chassis builders literature.
So just ground to a chassis ground? Are there any already on the vehicle or should I drill the frame?
I believe there is a sensor on the negative battery cable before the battery post.
Ford Battery Management System (BMS) -- also referred to by Ford as the Battery Control Module (BCM) -- connects to the negative terminal of the battery and monitors current, voltage, and temperature. ... If excessive battery drain is detected, the system temporarily disables some electrical systems to protect the battery.
I think Ford does not want you to ground on the neg. post for this reason. I remember reading it I believe in the chassis builders literature.
I believe you are referring to two different systems. The BMS system is present in Ford vehicles that have the automatic start / stop feature on the engine. Diesel Super Duty trucks do not have this. I don't believe the gas Super Duty trucks have it either but I am guessing from looking at the schematics in my Ford wiring diagram book. This is what it looks like on the F-150. The negative battery cable is running through the loop in the sensor:
There is a BECM in our trucks - Battery Energy Control Module - but it is under the driver seat and is tied into the supplemental restraint system and the air bag circuits. I believe it is responsible for setting a trouble condition if the system voltage is too low for the SRS to function properly.
I looked through the entire wiring book - there is no mention of BMS and the ground diagram for the battery connections do not show a BMS sensor - they show the ground cables going directly to multiple points - the engine, the body, the frame, the alternator, etc.
I believe you are referring to two different systems. The BMS system is present in Ford vehicles that have the automatic start / stop feature on the engine. Diesel Super Duty trucks do not have this. I don't believe the gas Super Duty trucks have it either but I am guessing from looking at the schematics in my Ford wiring diagram book. This is what it looks like on the F-150. The negative battery cable is running through the loop in the sensor:
There is a BECM in our trucks - Battery Energy Control Module - but it is under the driver seat and is tied into the supplemental restraint system and the air bag circuits. I believe it is responsible for setting a trouble condition if the system voltage is too low for the SRS to function properly.
I looked through the entire wiring book - there is no mention of BMS and the ground diagram for the battery connections do not show a BMS sensor - they show the ground cables going directly to multiple points - the engine, the body, the frame, the alternator, etc.
The BMS is mentioned in my Owners Manual for my '17 F-350. Yes, it originated for start/stop engines, but the manual says that it is there and I believe it. Therefore I surmise that it is OK to connect to the positive terminal, but I'm about to connect to the fuse box for positive at ...
using the unused bolt (6M x 1.0). This is on my '17 6.2 xl. Perhaps other engines/years have this too.
For a negative connection I intend to use ...
In my case this is on the passenger side (only one battery). Yes, that wiring is scrawny but 1) we know that the battery has a highly capable ground connection and 2) it is convenient.
I have no plans to exceed 30 amps. Your needs may be different.
The BMS is mentioned in my Owners Manual for my '17 F-350. Yes, it originated for start/stop engines, but the manual says that it is there and I believe it.
My 2019 Owners Manual says (If Equipped). That "If Equipped" is the key - the wiring diagrams for 2017 - 2019 F-250 thru F-550 trucks do not have ANY BMS connections or references that I can find. That is a book with 8 1/4" x 11" pages almost 2" thick.
Not trying to argue, just making sure people who want to add heavier gauge cabling know that it will not cause an issue with the BMS system - because it isn't there as far as I can see.
My 2019 Owners Manual says (If Equipped). That "If Equipped" is the key - the wiring diagrams for 2017 - 2019 F-250 thru F-550 trucks do not have ANY BMS connections or references that I can find. That is a book with 8 1/4" x 11" pages almost 2" thick.
Not trying to argue, just making sure people who want to add heavier gauge cabling know that it will not cause an issue with the BMS system - because it isn't there as far as I can see.
Thank you 1) for catching the fine print that I overlooked, and 2) trying to find the data in the original source documents. This raised the question of who if anyone has a BMS. Even my (lower case) xl has a radio (audio unit!) and manual air conditioning (climate control!).
I once had accessory mode going for quite a while....I wound up getting a message say some action is being raked to conserve battery ...or something to that effect.
I don’t see anything on my negative battery cables.
I also do remember having to reset my battery thing a magiger recently after replacing the battery. The acronym for the forscan thingy wasn’t bms, it had five letters .
I bought a set of these but didn’t install yet. Having trouble finding acid resistant bolts for the various Allen plugged holes so that I can make use of the system. Don’t know why the are not included or sold ad options from supplier.
Speakerfritz - we used Sanchem No-Ox on all of our DC plant for cell towers. I have used it on the Excursion. These connectors have been on for about 2 years with no signs of corrosion. It sits on a NoCo battery tender when its oarkwd. Maybe you could give that a try.
I have a few things that I want to wire in to my '18 F350 that I want to run to the battery and control with a relay. Looking at the battery terminals on the battery, there is no good way to get a hot and a ground without running a wire between batteries. What I mean is, on the passenger side battery terminal, there is a stud to pick up my hot power but nothing on the negative. The drivers side battery is just the opposite, the is a stud on the negative and nothing on the positive. There doesn't appear to be any way to attach a wire on the post on either battery that doesn't have a stud due to the design on the terminal.
How are you guys hooking stuff up to the battery? Do you just change out the battery terminal ends? Is there a better route?
Not sure what you want to attach, but I do not like to attach to the battery posts anything that does not need big amps. I have my winch and air compressor attached along with a jumper cable connection.
If you plan on heavy winching from the front hitch, keep an eye on the hitch......I bent mine doing this. I was able to bend it back but wasn't impressed. Big difference between a winch mount and a front receiver trailer hitch.
Which hitch did you have installed when you bent it ?
Speakerfritz - we used Sanchem No-Ox on all of our DC plant for cell towers. I have used it on the Excursion. These connectors have been on for about 2 years with no signs of corrosion. It sits on a NoCo battery tender when its oarkwd. Maybe you could give that a try.
I guess I'm an amateur. I modified the terminals on both batteries so they all have the extra post like the negative post on the driver's battery and the positive post on the passenger battery. I figure if it was good for Ford it should be good for me.
I wanted a direct battery connection for the 280 amp winch feeds I installed front and rear - using Anderson quick connects.
I drilled the terminals and tapped them with a 6mm tap. I used stainless bolts and washers for the connections. I used silver-plated lugs when I made the cables so I shouldn't have an issue with dis-similar metals causing corrosion.
I added a larger ground cable from the passenger side battery directly to an existing frame ground right below the battery. That nice heavy bolt makes for a great ground connection.
Clean install.
Would it matter what kind of bolt is used for this? As far as coatings and what not?
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