New '48 F1 Build begins, speedway IFS, 5.0/AOD
#1
New '48 F1 Build begins, speedway IFS, 5.0/AOD
Hey guys and gals, decision making and trigger pulling is happening on my new Effie project.
I traded my 75 F100 parts truck for the '48 and a parts 86 lincoln town car which will donate the engine, trans and 8.8 rear end.
I placed my order today for speedway motors Mustang II Ifs.
I changed some things around with the kit, it came to a tick over $1600 shipped with the crossmember, power steering and tie rod extenders. I'll be covering it all on my YouTube channel CPR Garage soon. I'll let ya know how it stacks up against the crown vic setup on my '69 F100
I traded my 75 F100 parts truck for the '48 and a parts 86 lincoln town car which will donate the engine, trans and 8.8 rear end.
I placed my order today for speedway motors Mustang II Ifs.
I changed some things around with the kit, it came to a tick over $1600 shipped with the crossmember, power steering and tie rod extenders. I'll be covering it all on my YouTube channel CPR Garage soon. I'll let ya know how it stacks up against the crown vic setup on my '69 F100
#3
No boredom here, I'm an "essential" or "expendable" depending on how you look at it.
I got the heart of the linc ripped out yesterday. Managed to evacuate about 8 quarts of tranny fluid on the shop floor. I also have a mustang T5 that I'm pondering on instead of the AOD.
She's non-ho but I have a pile of parts that should be good for 325-350 horse. The wire harness had some damage so I'm strongly considering Holley terminator X to run it.
I got the heart of the linc ripped out yesterday. Managed to evacuate about 8 quarts of tranny fluid on the shop floor. I also have a mustang T5 that I'm pondering on instead of the AOD.
She's non-ho but I have a pile of parts that should be good for 325-350 horse. The wire harness had some damage so I'm strongly considering Holley terminator X to run it.
#4
Well that all looks a little familiar, I am using a 5.0 from a Mark vii in my '56 f100 panel. But I have to finish my current project first. I admire your energy and enthusiasm that as a old guy I wish I still had.
In my case, mostly because of getting past "my best by due date" and my experience with how long projects can take, I now resit the temptation to delay the completion with some nice features or things that I would have previously done that will slow down the finishing.
That is not in anyway a criticism, just a observation, full speed ahead with what you want to do.
In regards to the T5, I think it will delay (clutch linkage) the project a bit for what I think might get old (Just like me) very fast once on the road.
In my case, mostly because of getting past "my best by due date" and my experience with how long projects can take, I now resit the temptation to delay the completion with some nice features or things that I would have previously done that will slow down the finishing.
That is not in anyway a criticism, just a observation, full speed ahead with what you want to do.
In regards to the T5, I think it will delay (clutch linkage) the project a bit for what I think might get old (Just like me) very fast once on the road.
#6
I go back and forth on the AOD or 5 speed. 5 speed would be more fun but the clutch linkage might suck and the shifter would be far back.
The Aod would need some work also though, minimum of a shift kit and some governor work to get it to shift at higher rpm.
One of my other projects is an '88 Tbird sport that would also be a good use for the T5.
The Aod would need some work also though, minimum of a shift kit and some governor work to get it to shift at higher rpm.
One of my other projects is an '88 Tbird sport that would also be a good use for the T5.
#7
Ford installed these from the bottom, probably in the K member as an assembly, so if it was good enough for Ford. I did not known that the fox body K member was bolted in (no reason to) but I was very surprised that as far as I could find no crazy street rodder had tried to use the K member as a transplant. That should be a big heads up! Anyway, other then the shock towers having the usual lower frame portion rust that is going to be trim-ed off and because the fox body is NOT a true McPherson strut but a hybrid in that the K member supports the front end weight with coil spring pockets I am thinking about it. What could possibly go wrong ? (I was going to keep this a secret in case it didn't work out.) This is what 10 zip blades will get you: (sorry for the hijack)
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#9
Mustang T-5 may work if you are using independent front seats to make a space between them for the shifter.
Not an automotive engineer, but I don't think the T-5 was designed for the for the hp/torque of that 5.0.
You seem like you would know a lot about mating engines and trans as to what works.
Not an automotive engineer, but I don't think the T-5 was designed for the for the hp/torque of that 5.0.
You seem like you would know a lot about mating engines and trans as to what works.
#11
Got this greasy pile separated. I think I'm going with a newfangled throttle body efi on a carb manifold. Let me know what you guys would like to see? I had a bad Fitech experience when they first came out quality was pretty poor.
I'm eyeing Holley Sniper or Summit max-efi 500 which is a modified FiTech. I would kind of like to try the Summit as it appears they corrected some of the Fitech design problems.
'48 rolls in the shop next week to begin the build.
I'm eyeing Holley Sniper or Summit max-efi 500 which is a modified FiTech. I would kind of like to try the Summit as it appears they corrected some of the Fitech design problems.
'48 rolls in the shop next week to begin the build.
#12
The answer to your clutch linkage is the factory cable. If you convert to firewall pedals, it's simple. There are pics on the internet of people that have adapted a cable to the under floor pedal also. The t5 from the mustang uses the 157 tooth flywheel and bellhousing. All the world class t5's will handle a stock or mildly modified 302. If you don't want to use a cable, you can adapt a pull type slave cylinder mounted on the front of the bellhousing or a push type that several kits are available for the rear side of the bellhousing. I have used both options and they are usually decided up by the space you have to fit parts.