I’m not sure but I had a mechanic come over and tell me that this carb had no choke set up to control the plate and that it was idling high.

 

First off, find another Tech he clearly has no clue what he is doing in regards to carbs.

The choke is there and present and likely just needs to be adjusted.

Second, this hose goes to this port. See below in Red

And my biggest concern is not the choke being out of adjustment but the amount of crap on the choke flap that the engine has been ingesting.

 

don’t worry about the stuff on the plate I cleaned that right after this and also I know all the stuff is there for the choke but while the truck is running it is almost completely closed and not letting much air in. When I open the plate up it idles down and seems to run smoother.

 

Where the crap come from is the question. And when the engine is warm the choke plate should be fully open.
If you do not have a shop manual I suggest you pick one up. A Chiltons or Haynes will suffice and it will have the basic procedure for adjusting things like the carb/choke.
Ideally, you want to adjust the choke cap so the choke plate is open about halfway at room temp.

This video will give you the basics on adjusting the choke.

 

The picture shows below how the choke should be piped in to get hot air into the black choke housing so it will work. I don't know what that round thing is near the rear of the carb tee'd into the vacuum line in the picture. Just ignore that part.

 

Jeeze Dave if you are going to post pics of parts at least use the correct one.

The above diagram is NOT how the choke should be piped in to get hot air into the choke housing on this engine.

Below is how it is supposed to be done. Inlet in a blue outlet in red.
A. heater air to choke
B. Fresh Air feed
C Choke housin
D. Heater

They utilize the intake exhaust cross over for the heat tube.
And considering the outlet was already hooked up ..... there really was no need go further..

 

I just rebuilt my 2 barrel due to lack of functional accelerator pump. I fought the hot air choke tube thing at length and finally converted mine to manual choke. It looks like your carb might’ve been remanufactured and then ran without an air filter.
I don’t know the proper way to convert one to manual choke. But I do know if you buy one of those barrel shaped brass rods with a hole in the side for choke cable to go through and Phillips to tighten it, you are the controller of your own choke for less than $30 and an hour of time at most. You have to disconnect the rod that moves flap closed in accordance with hot air mechanism and hook your manual choke cable attachment point there. I did have to Dremel a small amount of my stock air cleaner base away to clear manual choke cable but this only means air is coming in not from stock breather input. The air still has to pass through stock air filter.
if you aren’t in a big hurry to remove an entire breather assembly you could maybe find a way to route manual choke cable so you didn’t have to cut away an inch or so of the bottom of your base of your air cleaner assembly.
most would just use aftermarket round open element style air cleaner assy, but I like seeing factory breather assemblies on old cars. Same as valve covers.
Good luck with your hot air deal, I got frustrated with mine. I got it working ok, but when I had to pull carb for rebuild I said enough. Manual choke so dead simple.

 

The manual choke conversion kits work better than what Odisvan did. The kit will give you a new round black piece with a manual actuating shaft sticking out. And then an adjustable lever to clamp to the shaft and that gives you a place to hook your cable. So what you are doing is taking the bi-metal temperature spring mechanism out, and replacing it with a manual piece that simulates it instead. What this will do for you is make the fast idle and the choke qualifier (choke pull-off) will still work. You just pull the cable tight and the flap shuts completely, and then when the engine starts the choke-pull off will work to crack the choke open and the engine will fast idle like it's supposed to. And you can push the cable half-way and kick the throttle and the fast idle will go it a mid speed position.

Here's one of the kits.

 

Im probably gonna end up going this route because it seems like the most simple way to solve my problem. The kit you sent looks pretty popular so I'm sure ill be able to find help for that.

 

This will only fix your problem if the issues is the thermostatic choke housing. If it is a linkage adjustment issue it won't solve any thing.

 

The choke on it has no heat hose going to it and it looked like it snapped off so the choke has nothing to pick up to know how open it needs to be and its not getting any power even though that would be an easy cord to make.

 

If all the is screwed and there no intention to fix it. Then manual conversion is the way to go. Just be sure when you pull the coke out you have the gas pedal depressed. As the high idle cam is stepped and not ramped like the earlier manual choke carbs. If you try pulling the choke on without the pedal depressed there is a chance of bending or even breaking something. The alternative is to remove the high idle cam and file down the steps into ramps then you do not have to worry about depressing the throttle when pulling the choke on