2001 F350 CC Dually with a service bed. 333K on the truck.
Customer complaint: truck starts fine, may run 100ft. or 100 miles, then lose power and stall.
A little history: I installed this engine 7-8 years ago from a wreck the customer had on the yard, mileage unknown. Injectors were replaced with Riff-Raff rebuilt a and UVCH and VC gaskets were changed also.
I quit turning wrenches professionally over 5 years ago, so I don't know much about what has been done to the truck since. I do know it has been to three different shops and hasn't been fixed yet. One supposedly replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the last dropped the tank and replaced the strainer, twice. The owner gave up and parked the truck for the next 1.5 years.
I hooked my AE scanner to it today, fired up well for sitting so long. Right off it had a dead pedal, no throttle response at all. After a while I got it to rev, sounded great, but was putting out a bit of blue smoke.
After a while it would rev a few times and then at WOT it would start fluttering and slowly lose RPMs until it stalled. If I would let off off the pedal during this time and press again sometimes I would get the dead pedal again.
I'm leaning toward fuel restriction for the stalling or maybe worn pump. I didn't have a gauge with me to check the FP. In pulling codes and going through the tests on the AE I know there are other issues, but I really don't think they are related to the stalling. Here's a few pics of what I was seeing.



thanks for looking and any help will be greatly appreciated. Jeff

 

Looks like codes were on sale and you stocked up.

The drivability issues sound like a dirty TPS and/or a bad CPS. Unless the CPS was replaced recently I'd stick in a new one. Hopefully some spray contact cleaner will help the TPS.

After that I'd focus on the P1316. IDMs do go bad but typically the downstream wiring it the problem. Check the underside of the 42 pin harness where it drapes over the driver side valve cover. It can rub through and cause intermittent shorts. Check continuity from 42 pin to injector harness. ICP numbers while running look great.

Fuel pressure would be nice but the codes seem to pint to electrical issues. If you want to cross fuel supply off the list pull the hose off the rear of the pump and blow shop air back to the tank. Open the fuel cap first. This will blow any crud off the pickup screens temporarily.

 

Thanks for the response. I'll check the harness. I think I have a spare IDM that I can try on it and I know I have a good CPS.
Im not sure how the guy talked me into working on this thing, guess he caught me when I needed a few $$$. I'll get back to it one evening this week and post again what I found.

 

Ok, finally got a chance to look at the truck again today.
Fuel pressure runs 45-55 PSI, so I guess there's not a fuel restriction.
Changed IDM with a known good unit, twice, still the same symptoms.
My laptop battery was very low, so I only got a short scan before it died, but I think there's some info here that'll point to the problem.

At idle

WOT as the RPMs are falling

I took a short video of the scan, but can't load it. Did notice as the RPMS dropped the control pressure dropped to around 300.
I forgot to grab my extra CPS, but I'm not sure that it could cause these problems.
Checked the harness for wear, none noticed.
Please throw a few more ideas out there.
Thanks, Jeff

 

How does it run with the ICP disconnected?

How is the oil level?

High pressure oil is not building given IPR% got up to 64%. If it does not run better with ICP unplugged, consider rebuilding or replacing the IPR valve.

 

High pressure oil numbers at idle are fine, but the driving/revving max ICP to 65 with only 3 digits of HPO psi? Way bad. Completely losing high pressure.

If it runs well cold but fails when hot, that points to a failing IPR.

Could also be blown injector o rings. Is the fuel filter black?

 

Fuel filter is clean, although I'm sure the last shop that worked on it replaced.
Oil is new and up to proper level.
There doesn't seem to be any difference with the ICP unplugged.
Is the IPR the same as on a '97 PSD? I have an extra motor from a '97 that I can rob a few parts to try, never been one to keep throwing new parts at a problem hoping one would fix it. That's what the other shops wanted to do, so the owner gave up.

 

Those injector codes could be loose UVCH’s or possibly chafed wires near 42pin connector at valve cover.

Low ICP numbers could be bad ICP sensor. Try running with it unplugged.

How old is the oil? What brand? Does it look nasty?

Lack of response from pedal and low ICP could be tired injectors. Rebuilds from that era often sucked.

The 7.3 IPR’s are all the same. Doesnt hurt to try that.

 

Another idea I had, I know, that could be dangerous.
Does the HPOP have an inlet screen?
The guy that was driving the truck said that when it would stall you could wait 5 minutes and restart, then it might run or not.
I'm a retired heavy equipment and truck mechanic, used to see trucks where someone would drop the cardboard seal out of a fuel conditioner bottle top in the tank, it would get sucked up over the pickup tube and shut the engine down. After a few minutes it would float away and the engine would restart. I know that's not the problem, but it seems very similar.
When I started on this last week the truck ran for 10-15 minutes before it stalled, last night it didn't run for 2 before stalling.

 

Is the tin nut tight on the back of the IPR? Check the simple stuff first.

 

Make sure you use OEM sensor parts. Old trucks... check the grounds around engine bay, especially by fuse box and IDM Check for burned contacts on the UVCH plugs

Run any different if its been plugged in ???? with oil warmer ?

 

It's tight.
Runs great when first started, may run from 2-15 minutes before pressure drops and it fades away and stalls.
Oil is new, Delo 15/40
No change with ICP unplugged.

 

When I first started it last week to run the scan, Injector control pressure was 2600- 3000 for the first 10 minutes or so, after this the pressure hasn't been over 1200 PSI.
When it first fired up cold, it runs great, no miss, no chugging, no loping.

 

IPR would be the next thing to rule out.

Is the HPOP reservoir full after it dies?

 

Yes. Funny thing is if I let it sit 4-5 minutes it'll start up normally and rev to redline several times before starting the flutter when the high pressure drops.