Hey guys have a question on fuel pumps
I had my 2002 F-350 DRW setting since the summer with a full fuel tank and when I started it right after the snowstorm ( I'm in Colorado) to plow around it, I drove it through a few drifts and parked it. The next day I took it to the store and it died in the parking lot. I turned the key on and the fuel pump was not working. I was thinking that the fuel had probably gelled and I put some 9-1-1 in the tank and tried to start it after I cleared all of the snow from around the fuel pump. it started and ran for about 3 minutes and died again. I checked the to see if the fuel pump was pumping and it does have some vibration just doesn't feel as strong as it did and it shuts off after about 45seconds the reason that I say that it doesn't feel as strong as it did is a couple of weeks earlier I was going to start it and it wouldn't start. in the diagnosis I found a bad IPR and replaced it. and it started right up. I was feeling the fuel pump then to see if it was getting fuel and it "felt" stronger then than it does now.
Long story short I am goin to try with a test light to see if the positive side of the pump is still getting voltage when the pump stops and I will tr to measure voltage when it is pumping? is there anything else that I should do or try? Also where can a guy get a less expensive fuel pump than the $400+ motorcraft and one that will bee reliable?
Sorry for the long post for a short question.
Thanks for any help

 

Motorcraft IPR? Anything else then it would still be suspect.

There’s a simple method for checking the fuel pressure from the fuel bowl. You could even rent the gauge from a parts store.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1592859516

If fuel pressure is an issue the FPR is also suspect.

 

Bosch is who made the factory pumps, Rockauto has them for $75.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...fuel+pump,6256

 

cool thanks for the information
so the pump works it pumps up to 60 pounds and then shuts off. It falls off to nothing if I leave the key on. when I turn the key off it drains to nothing.
I don't know enough about these pumps to know if that is normal? the truck tries to start if I leave it for a bit but won't start running. I wonder if there is another pump that is clogged or is there a way there could bee an obstruction between the fuel bowl and the injectors? would it get clogged and not feed any of the injectors? there is smoke coming out of the exhaust when it first tries to start or starts and when it dies then with additional cranking it does not produce any smoke? could there bee an issue with the new IPR I installed? I am limited with the amount of tools as I have no scanner to test the ICP, IPR, and wonder what the H E Double Hockey Sticks is going on.

Reply to Racin Jason
The IPR was not a motor craft it was a Standard
Just read the post again

 

It’s normal for it to shut off after a bit with key on engine off.

60psi is good.

 

If you're asking does the pump turn off after 5-7 seconds, yes, until it sees the CKP Signal. Otherwise the pump would overheat and fail.

 

You could try disconnecting the fuel line after the pump and run it to a bucket to make sure you're getting a good steady stream. Have the in tank mods been done? You can also run a hose from a fuel can to the suction side of the pump and see if it improves. If so then you're either sucking air or pick up is plugged.

 

So then there is a good possibility that the IPR took a dump? I guess that I will have to get a motor craft and hope that it lasts a while, the last one bit the dust after 2 years and it came from the dealer!!
so some history on this truck. I purchased it 3 ½ years ago. It was used for hauling something and the previous owner had installed a Banks bully dog in it complete with methanol injection from Snow mfg, with a 5"exhaust and the FS2500 oil filter/test system. that was installed in 2011 I think. When I got it and had it a few months driving it very little I found that it had a surge problem and took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic and they replaced the IPR and 2 injectors. About a year or so later I had to replace the air conditioner compressor and noticed a leak in the HPOP so I changed it.I found that it had an adrenaline HPOPin it and thinking that they had probably done other stuff to the engine I went ahead and had the injectors sent to FFD and had them rebuilt. I purchased 160/ single shot injectors put in along with new glow plugs and installed a Hydra 6 position chip. about 2 weeks later I was really getting on the throttle and when it shifted the actuator came unhooked from the waste gate and it shelled the turbo (broke the shaft in half) I drove it about 3-4 miles and had a tow truck bring it to the barn where it sat until I got the turbo replaced. thats when I replaced the IPR and now that I am still having problems and the same thing is happening and after findihng that everything is working with the fuel pump I think the IPR may have gone bad. So I will order the new one tomorrow and see if that is the problem.
Thanks for the info that you guys gave on the testing and all the other advice. If anyone has something else to add please do as it will bee a few days before I get a chance to replace the IPR. Also is there. a way to rebuild the Motor craft one??
Thanks again for the help

 

Yup that's normal. With key on but not twisted over to start the pump will run for 20 seconds then stop. Fuel pressure will drop off almost immediately. So if it is building a steady 60 psi while the pump is running, all is well there.

Is the CEL lit?

Hard to say if the IPR is bad, no info yet so no sense spending the coin. Need a way to monitor the sensors to see if it is bad, and what else is going on. Common ways are Forscan or Torque Pro apps on your android phone and a OBD bluetooth adapter. Not expensive but ask here before buying, too many choices out there and some are no bueno.

 

Like aawlberninf350 said, I’m not suggesting you jump right into buying a new IPR. My comment was just to keep this in mind while trouble shooting. A better course of action (for your wallet) would be to get a OBD2 scan tool. You can get by with some cheaper adapters but I’ll let the others make recommendations.

 

Look in the tech folder for the easy way to test the fuel pressure

 

I want to thank you guys for helping me out
The tech bulletins helped a lot. I replaced the IPR and it fired right up!! I am going to see if there is a way to rebuild these as I have a couple of them If I need another one it might be handy to keep one in the truck for a bit!!
Thanks again

Hey RacinJason talk to me sometime about that hot rod 289 you have

 

Great news!

You can rebuild the IPR as I’ve seen others post about it. I tried looking it up but was unable to find the part at riffraff the other day. Hoping someone will jump in with the needed info.
edit: found it. Not sure if there are other options with more parts. https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ipr-c...RoC8o0QAvD_BwE

289 isn’t too much of a hotrod. Pretty mild build but we bracket race so no need to be the fastest. Stock crank and rods, most everything else has been upgraded at least a little. 11:1, “custom”(read just from their special catalog) flat tappet comp cam, roller rockers, Edelbrock perf rpm intake and heads, 750 Holley, main and stud girdles (after broken parts), 5000rpm 8” converter (that’s where the magic happens), Frankenstein C4 trans (due to other broken parts), Cal-Tracs, little 9” slicks. Haven’t done more than oil changes, valve lash, and plugs to the engine in probably 8 years. Runs around 7.30’s @ 90mph in the 1/8th.
I was gonna tell you to hit me up in PM but looks like I got carried away and shared it all in here. Lol

 

Videos for the IPR "rebuild"


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