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Old Oct 31, 2003 | 07:22 AM
  #16  
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99f250
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it doesnt get rough at idle?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2003 | 11:16 AM
  #17  
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it doesnt get rough at idle?
It will idle about 150 rpm higher than normal and be a bit choppy (of course, you already knew that). I like it, it's got kind of a big cam lope to it. MrsCookie dosen't care for the way it idles either, that's why mine's on a switch.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2003 | 05:02 PM
  #18  
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Yes. I too wired mine to a switch under the dash. Good to have.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2003 | 10:54 PM
  #19  
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I think it all depends on what program your puter has from ford. My idle speed increased so little it is not worth saying, and there is no other effects such as choppy response or lope in the idle. The off idle response is very nice, no aparent mpg loss. I know of some trucks that reacted so badly, even the guys that installed the 10k pulled it cuz they didn't like the way the truck acted. There was no ill effects even after installing my chip.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 05:55 PM
  #20  
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So is this 10k mod doing about the same thing as shimming the idle pressure spring under the brass nut deal, or would you do both?

Later Larry
 
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 08:58 PM
  #21  
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Ive done both. Well worth the time in my opinion. I am very pleased with the results. Any questions on shimming the regulator or the 10k just ask..
 
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Old Nov 2, 2003 | 10:34 PM
  #22  
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if i was gonna switch it, do i have to actually cut the wire to splice into it?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 07:53 AM
  #23  
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From: raleigh/durham nc
10k mod resistor part no.

Does anyone have the Radio Shack Part no. for this resistor ?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 09:33 AM
  #24  
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I did both FPR and 10k mods. The FPR shimming affects the fuel pressure and the 10k affects the high pressure oil. I did not splice into my wiring harness at all to do the 10k. I soldered fine gage wire to the resistor, put heat shrink tubing over the whole thing, and inserted the bare wire into the plug before plugging it back into the sensor. This way if for whatever reason I need to remove it I can without hacking into the harness. Both mods are well worth it in my opinion.
My Radio Shack package doesn't have a part #. The # above the UPC code is 271-1126. The color bands on the resistors are Gold,orange,black,brown. The description on the package is 10k-ohm, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance. 5 resistors to a package.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 09:58 AM
  #25  
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OK, could some of you guys that have done both of these mods please shoot me an E-mail and let me know the specifics of these mods. I would like to do them, but don't want to harm anything! And the number one question is how do either of these mods affect the Fuel Milage?

Admin Note: No emails in posts. Use the contact form in the profiles.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 05:07 PM
  #26  
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50kid, both mods are very simple. Take of the black plastic cover thats onto of your block. There are three screws, one in the front center and two in back. Next look just to the right of your fuel filter, round platic cap in the middle. There is a brass 19mm nut on the right, remove this nut. You will see a spring, remove it with a pair of needle nose pliers. Get a #4 allen head fine screw from just about any hardware store. Slide the screw into the end of the spring that faced into the regulator. Insert the spring, screw first back into the regulator. Put the brass screw back in making sure the spring is centered into the nipple. Now you are ready to check fuel preasure. There is a valve, like a tire valve below the 19mm brass screw. You check the preasure with a tire guage when the truck is idling. It may be a good idea to check the preasure before you start just to get a bass reading. You want to get the psi between 75 and 85. If you are to high you have to file the head of the screw down.

10k mod:
To the right of the fuel regulator your see a plastic plug going into the engine. pull this plug out and look into it. It will look like two eyes and a mouth. The wires you want to splice into will be the mouth and the right eye. Very carefully peel back some of the insulation from the wire with a pair of wire strippers. splice a 10k resistor into the wires and wrap with electrical tape. Put the wires back into the plastic wrapping and plug it back in. Start it up and see how it runs.

One more thing. While you have the cover of your block you may want to clean the regulator screen. Take the fuel filter out and drain the water seperator. There are two 10mm screws on the side of the regulator. Take them out noting where the go, they are different. Gently pull the reulator away from the filter housing. You will see a samll screen, with a qtip with the cotton part cut of you can scarp all the crap off of it. You may not be able to get the regulator far enough away from the filter housing to reack the screen. AIf not you can reach it by first putting the qtip throught hole inside of the filter housing where the fuel enters. Reassemble and you are good to go.

Good Luck.

PS, the directions are for 94-97 psds.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 07:57 PM
  #27  
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Thanks alot man!!!

How are the directions going to differ for an '02 model. Mine is the '02 PSD.

And how are these going to affect fuel milage??

 
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Old Nov 3, 2003 | 09:02 PM
  #28  
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Honestly 50 kid I dont know how the directions will differ. Ive never done this on a newer model. I know some of the guys from this forum have done the two mods on their 02s. Im gonna assume that the only thing that is going to be different is the locations the parts.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2003 | 09:03 AM
  #29  
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What about the fuel milage, I bought this for the increase in fuel milage over my last gasser. I don't want to hinder my fuel milage to bad!

So can anyone tell me if these mods affect fuel milage PLEASE!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2003 | 10:06 AM
  #30  
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Well I just found out that I can't do the shim on mine. The '99 and newer have a different setup that doesn't lend itself to the mod.

http://forums.ford-trucks.com/ubbthr...=&fpart=1&vc=1

Some good reading in this post!

Oh Well...
 
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