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So I’ve been looking at some options for a 1970 f-100 4x4, and after receiving a quote to stroke my fe all parts and labor included of 12k I looked at some crate options still considering the fe build but I could buy a turn key fuel injected stroked 347 for about $6k and I could possibly buy an automatic transmission as well to mate it to for less than the fe build. Anybody have any ideas on this? what auto trans might fit and mate to the 205 transfer case? Think this is a sensible swap? The 347 Dynos at 400hp- 415lbs of torque? Anybody tried this?
Well 12k is way overpriced, the 6k is unrealistic also. For those prices you are in new engine territory. If you go with the 351w a 6r80 will work and just need the spline adapter for the t case. On the other hand it could also be beneficial to use the newer t case with manual shift as it has a lower range.
$12k for a mild stroker FE build sounds about right. And yes a windsor based 347 is half price for about the same power, or a BBF.
There are SBF bell housing C6s that will bolt to the 205 with factory parts, but are not common. 205 didn't come behind the c4 or AOD, although adapters can be had. Could also use a BW transfer case that did come behind a small block auto.
FEs are cool but will be the most expensive option. How are you going to use the truck?
This truck will be fully restored almost done actually, it’ll be a date night and show truck drive on Sunday. I just want it to have plenty of go juice
Why are you looking at a 347 stroker when the 351W stock will give you better low end? instead of the 347 stroker, go with the 408 stroker based on the 351W. Better low end, about the same price as the 347 stroker. Also, the sbf C6 will bolt up to either. If you don't mind not having an overdrive, go with a wide ratio C6 auto. It was originally mated to a NP205. I can find the adapter part number if you need one. Most ford transfercases will be the 6-bolt round pattern. So a NP203, NP205, BW1345, BW1356 will all bolt onto the same transmission if the adapter is there. You just may need to modify the shifter a bit, but if you have a NP205, I'd suggest twin sticking it. You can have fwd, rwd or 4x4 all in either hi or low gear.
I too like the idea of the stroked FE (I'm building a 444 stroked FE currently), but FE does stand for F'n Expensive, albeit period correct. The C6 with the correct bolt pattern will mate up. Broader Performance in TX, I believe, has the C6's for the 385 series, FE's, and sbf's.
Why are you looking at a 347 stroker when the 351W stock will give you better low end? instead of the 347 stroker, go with the 408 stroker based on the 351W. Better low end, about the same price as the 347 stroker. Also, the sbf C6 will bolt up to either. If you don't mind not having an overdrive, go with a wide ratio C6 auto. It was originally mated to a NP205. I can find the adapter part number if you need one. Most ford transfercases will be the 6-bolt round pattern. So a NP203, NP205, BW1345, BW1356 will all bolt onto the same transmission if the adapter is there. You just may need to modify the shifter a bit, but if you have a NP205, I'd suggest twin sticking it. You can have fwd, rwd or 4x4 all in either hi or low gear.
I too like the idea of the stroked FE (I'm building a 444 stroked FE currently), but FE does stand for F'n Expensive, albeit period correct. The C6 with the correct bolt pattern will mate up. Broader Performance in TX, I believe, has the C6's for the 385 series, FE's, and sbf's.
Thank you very helpful, I looked at the 408 stroker as well, do you know if the trans support will have to be relocated I have to do all the math, including the new steering column. I originally just wanted to stroke out the 360 I started with and make it look as close to original as I could but actually have some horsepower for fun, but after all the recommendations for aluminum intake and heads, I feel like I’m halfway to a possibly better performing restomod with EFI and and automatic transmission. I may like it better in the long run, I’ve already added power steering, disc brakes, and A/C.
Thank you very helpful, I looked at the 408 stroker as well, do you know if the trans support will have to be relocated I have to do all the math, including the new steering column. I originally just wanted to stroke out the 360 I started with and make it look as close to original as I could but actually have some horsepower for fun, but after all the recommendations for aluminum intake and heads, I feel like I’m halfway to a possibly better performing restomod with EFI and and automatic transmission. I may like it better in the long run, I’ve already added power steering, disc brakes, and A/C.
The transmission support bracket may need to be moved, but that's just drilling out two holes and rebolting it if I remember correctly. I believe they're close enough Ford already had both holes in the frame for the support bracket. You'll want to pay attention to the pinion angle on the driveshaft. Too high an angle and you'll prematurely wear out your U-joints. Too low and you'll have too much vibration and again, prematurely wear out your U-joints as they're meant to have a bit of angle on them.
If you're going to swap to the sbf engine, you'll need to swap in the 302 mounts. You'll also need to change out your radiator and heater lines depending on where they're located. Since you swapped in A/C, I'm going to gather it's a newer unit such as Vintage air, you'll need new brackets etc. What is nice about the 351W, you can get OEM brackets for a serpentine system out of later model e-series vans and F-series trucks. Easy to do a 3G alternator swap.
For the FE, CVT racing has a nice serpentine system if you want to go that route, or they also have a V-belt system which can probably re-use your alt, power steering pump, compressor, etc.
If you want to keep it looking original, you can also not stroke the 360, but make it a 390 FE (need the crank, rods and pistons) and just get an aluminum intake with some head work. That should put you around 400 lb-ft of torque. Depending on where you're at, Barry at Survival motorsports can do it (He's in Michigan). He's done quite a bit in the FE world.
To put in a SBF engine, you will need the 77-79 4wd 351M/400 engine supports with the 302/351W engine mounts. You can't use the FE/Six supports as it puts the engine at a bad angle. Look for them at a JY, or buy new from Autofab: https://autofab.com/c-335580-heavy-d...eel-drive.html
The transmission support bracket may need to be moved, but that's just drilling out two holes and rebolting it if I remember correctly. I believe they're close enough Ford already had both holes in the frame for the support bracket. You'll want to pay attention to the pinion angle on the driveshaft. Too high an angle and you'll prematurely wear out your U-joints. Too low and you'll have too much vibration and again, prematurely wear out your U-joints as they're meant to have a bit of angle on them.
If you're going to swap to the sbf engine, you'll need to swap in the 302 mounts. You'll also need to change out your radiator and heater lines depending on where they're located. Since you swapped in A/C, I'm going to gather it's a newer unit such as Vintage air, you'll need new brackets etc. What is nice about the 351W, you can get OEM brackets for a serpentine system out of later model e-series vans and F-series trucks. Easy to do a 3G alternator swap.
For the FE, CVT racing has a nice serpentine system if you want to go that route, or they also have a V-belt system which can probably re-use your alt, power steering pump, compressor, etc.
If you want to keep it looking original, you can also not stroke the 360, but make it a 390 FE (need the crank, rods and pistons) and just get an aluminum intake with some head work. That should put you around 400 lb-ft of torque. Depending on where you're at, Barry at Survival motorsports can do it (He's in Michigan). He's done quite a bit in the FE world.
I thought about the 390 conversion at first but didn’t seem like it was much less of a build than the 445. I guess the factory heads work better for the 390 than the 445 and that’s where the savings are?
What about getting a late model FI 351w with trans and transfer case? Look for a wrecked 1992-1996 F-150. Motor rebuild fairly easy (dollar wise) and use a Holley Terminator X Max to run engine. Late model underneath, old school outside...
I thought about the 390 conversion at first but didn’t seem like it was much less of a build than the 445. I guess the factory heads work better for the 390 than the 445 and that’s where the savings are?
The stroker kit is $2K. For Al heads, that's another $1500. That will bring your overall cost down to about $8500 for a complete rebuild as a 390 with a decent Aluminum intake. You can probably find a used Edelbrock Performer RPM (don't get the Performer as it's like the stock 4 barrel) if you search the web for a better price than new. I'd swap over to hydraulic roller for longer engine life and no worries of engine break-in issues with the flat tappet. That and the current oils don't add zinc which flat tappets need.
I guess I don't understand these prices. So I had to look at my most recent 445 build I finished in December along with a 6r80 swap and EFI. If you can omit the jesel drive and don't want the roller cam or rockers you can do a full swap with trans for 10k. For what it's worth this setup did produce 549HP and 610TQ on 91 gas, I did keep the tuning very safe and there is probably more to be had. This went into a 68 Galaxie 500 I built for a friend.
445 kit 2100.00
Used 391 Block 350.00
Used edelbrock heads and intake from ebay 1300plus 600.00 to rebuild the heads.
FiTech system 1600.00
Howard roller cam kit 900.00
Jesel Belt drive 1700.00
Harland roller rockers and pushrods 1600.00
6r80 used from LKQ 700.00
FE 6R80 adapter 1200.00
6r80 controller 1100.00
CVF serpentine kit 700.00
ARP full engine and accessories bolt kit 650.00
Generic SS shorty headers 150.00
small cap external coil HEI and 8mm wires 300
Misc materials, hoses, pump, an fittings etc 2200.00
I guess I don't understand these prices. So I had to look at my most recent 445 build I finished in December along with a 6r80 swap and EFI. If you can omit the jesel drive and don't want the roller cam or rockers you can do a full swap with trans for 10k. For what it's worth this setup did produce 549HP and 610TQ on 91 gas, I did keep the tuning very safe and there is probably more to be had. This went into a 68 Galaxie 500 I built for a friend.
445 kit 2100.00
Used 391 Block 350.00
Used edelbrock heads and intake from ebay 1300plus 600.00 to rebuild the heads.
FiTech system 1600.00
Howard roller cam kit 900.00
Jesel Belt drive 1700.00
Harland roller rockers and pushrods 1600.00
6r80 used from LKQ 700.00
FE 6R80 adapter 1200.00
6r80 controller 1100.00
CVF serpentine kit 700.00
ARP full engine and accessories bolt kit 650.00
Generic SS shorty headers 150.00
small cap external coil HEI and 8mm wires 300
Misc materials, hoses, pump, an fittings etc 2200.00
17,150.00
Out of curiosity, why did you use a 391 block and not a 390?