Is anyone making their own locking hitch pins using grade 8 bolts
#1
Is anyone making their own locking hitch pins using grade 8 bolts
After a disappointing exchange with etrailer regarding locking antirattle hitch pins, I got to thinking, "why not make my own using grade 8 bolts". Next I started reading on the Internet and found my idea was hardly revolutionary. Not only was a fairly common, but recommended in a multitude of places. So given my propensity to fabricate, I was wondering if someone here may already be doing that and how it was working out.
Steve
Steve
#2
Using grade 8 bolts is nothing new. Sure there is a ton of doomsdayers that claim they will fail but offer no proof or substance. Look at the amount of adjustable channel hitches that use grade 8 bolts. I like to make sure the shank of the bolt passes through the hitch completely with a little overage. This gives me the chance to run flat washers on both sides and then torque the nut down. I add a second nut and torque that as my lock and a pieceof glue lined heat shrink. I do the same at work but we weld the nut to the bolt to make it permanent. I build hitches in my free time and that's how I do them and there has never been wear or failure at max weight.
#3
#7
Using grade 8 bolts is nothing new. Sure there is a ton of doomsdayers that claim they will fail but offer no proof or substance. Look at the amount of adjustable channel hitches that use grade 8 bolts. I like to make sure the shank of the bolt passes through the hitch completely with a little overage. This gives me the chance to run flat washers on both sides and then torque the nut down. I add a second nut and torque that as my lock and a pieceof glue lined heat shrink. I do the same at work but we weld the nut to the bolt to make it permanent. I build hitches in my free time and that's how I do them and there has never been wear or failure at max weight.
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#8
I have zero fabrication skills but decided to upgrade my hitch pin to this:
after an online discussion about using the hitch pin to attach my tow strap to the truck in the rear. I found an article written by a university discussing various hitch pins, primarily in agricultural scenarios and it said that when a hitch pin is secured on both sides of the trailer connection the actual strength is doubled.....
I went with the above because there were no threads to fool with.
after an online discussion about using the hitch pin to attach my tow strap to the truck in the rear. I found an article written by a university discussing various hitch pins, primarily in agricultural scenarios and it said that when a hitch pin is secured on both sides of the trailer connection the actual strength is doubled.....
I went with the above because there were no threads to fool with.
#9
#10
I have zero fabrication skills but decided to upgrade my hitch pin to this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
after an online discussion about using the hitch pin to attach my tow strap to the truck in the rear. I found an article written by a university discussing various hitch pins, primarily in agricultural scenarios and it said that when a hitch pin is secured on both sides of the trailer connection the actual strength is doubled.....
I went with the above because there were no threads to fool with.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
after an online discussion about using the hitch pin to attach my tow strap to the truck in the rear. I found an article written by a university discussing various hitch pins, primarily in agricultural scenarios and it said that when a hitch pin is secured on both sides of the trailer connection the actual strength is doubled.....
I went with the above because there were no threads to fool with.
Steve
#11
I also read a very long piece on hitch pins directed at the farming community where some loads being hauled have huge weights. I read the same thing about securing the pin. What I am giving a try right now are locking pins that use the same key as the ignition. Reviews are very good and I would love to reduce the number of keys we carry for different locks.
Steve
Steve
How about buying this pin:
and the pin I mentioned above and use your fabrication skills to turn the end to match the pin and voila!
#13
Using Grade 8 is a good idea, in fact if comes with a Grade 5 and its critical I will move to an 8.
All that said do not forget that you are working with 2 things: 1 Tension and 2 Shear. Shear is less than tension. Take away when you work in Shear then its a big or go home approach.
here is a table to offer up some data points
All that said do not forget that you are working with 2 things: 1 Tension and 2 Shear. Shear is less than tension. Take away when you work in Shear then its a big or go home approach.
here is a table to offer up some data points
#14
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