Is anyone making their own locking hitch pins using grade 8 bolts
 

After a disappointing exchange with etrailer regarding locking antirattle hitch pins, I got to thinking, "why not make my own using grade 8 bolts". Next I started reading on the Internet and found my idea was hardly revolutionary. Not only was a fairly common, but recommended in a multitude of places. So given my propensity to fabricate, I was wondering if someone here may already be doing that and how it was working out.

Steve

Using grade 8 bolts is nothing new. Sure there is a ton of doomsdayers that claim they will fail but offer no proof or substance. Look at the amount of adjustable channel hitches that use grade 8 bolts. I like to make sure the shank of the bolt passes through the hitch completely with a little overage. This gives me the chance to run flat washers on both sides and then torque the nut down. I add a second nut and torque that as my lock and a pieceof glue lined heat shrink. I do the same at work but we weld the nut to the bolt to make it permanent. I build hitches in my free time and that's how I do them and there has never been wear or failure at max weight.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...de4cd526ee.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3c0fbc0c90.jpg

It is hared for me to see how they can fail. From what I have researched, they have 150,000 pound tensile and 22,000 pound shear strength and 44,000 double. Thanks for the reply. I think I will go that direction also.

Steve

I like that, you have some real fabrication skills, ford390gashog!

Mechanical engineer here.

I see nothing wrong with using grade 8 bolts for hitch pins, especially since you're going past the threads and you're into the shank of the bolt.

As long as they are real Grade 8 and not a Chinese copy yes they are fine.

That's a nice bit of kit right there! And if someone tells you, you must have a pair of brass ones, you can say, "as a matter of fact....." LOL!

I have zero fabrication skills but decided to upgrade my hitch pin to this:


after an online discussion about using the hitch pin to attach my tow strap to the truck in the rear. I found an article written by a university discussing various hitch pins, primarily in agricultural scenarios and it said that when a hitch pin is secured on both sides of the trailer connection the actual strength is doubled.....

I went with the above because there were no threads to fool with.

True that!! Good ol' Holo-Krome would be my go-to. The ones made of chinesium that identify as grade 8 scare me.

I also read a very long piece on hitch pins directed at the farming community where some loads being hauled have huge weights. I read the same thing about securing the pin. What I am giving a try right now are locking pins that use the same key as the ignition. Reviews are very good and I would love to reduce the number of keys we carry for different locks. :)

Steve

How about buying this pin:

and the pin I mentioned above and use your fabrication skills to turn the end to match the pin and voila!

I think that is the pin I ordered want to try one. :)

Steve

Using Grade 8 is a good idea, in fact if comes with a Grade 5 and its critical I will move to an 8.

All that said do not forget that you are working with 2 things: 1 Tension and 2 Shear. Shear is less than tension. Take away when you work in Shear then its a big or go home approach.

here is a table to offer up some data points

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...589f93b31e.jpg

Let’s also not forget that shear is usually referenced as a single point of contact. When using a double point of contact like in a hitch receiver the capacity doubles...

I sort of assumed that everyone used bolts. Its all I use, some red loctite, double nuts, and go. Those sloppy pins they sell, are so loose, and allow a lot of slop.