Does anyone know if you can use the 67 f150 harness on a 77 with 351

 

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I think it's very unlikely to be the same cole, but I don't know that for a fact. Just know that Ford changed them in some minor ways quite often. Just enough to make them not completely plug-n-play.

Plus, if you have an ammeter that is the wrong harness. Looks like one for "no gauges" rather than one for "with gauges" that uses only three positions at the regulator.
And really, in '67 I think (but again, don't know) that the charging system had some other components tied into the regulator that were not on a '77.

Hopefully someone has your answer, but you can also make your own fairly easily.
Surprised that they would have one for a '67 but not a '77 though. Figures...

Paul

 

Is this regarding your fusible link though? I saw your other inquiry and wanted to mention that usually you don't replace the entire wire. You just replace the end with the fusible link. They are sometimes listed as "do not splice" just like the resistor wires, but I've heard of way too many people replacing just the end and splicing a new fusible link in place to think it's not possible.
Did you buy a replacement fusible link section, or did you get a roll of fusible link wire?

Paul

 

Have you thought about going 3g or 10si and ditching that harness? I bypass all the factory stuff for a cleaner setup.

 

Good point. Even though I like the old setup still (at least the simplified version on the later trucks) it's hard to argue that the 3g is not an upgrade.
If you're sporting a perfectly good and un-returnable 1g that's working fine, I suppose a new harness is the way to go. For now...

But I don't think I asked, Cole, what happened to the old harness? Meltdown, or just getting old in general?

Paul

 

well...I did something stupid. Replaced the battery and the leads, the negative lead was too short, so I turned the battery around. When I did that it started pouring down rain on me and in a rush I hooked the leads up backward. Luckily, I had just installed a top mounted disconnect switch so I disconnected it before I could do more damage

replaced the link and that solved the problem

not pretty but it worked

 

honestly I don’t even know what that is

do you have any photos or info you could share

I’m open for cleaner solution

 

I bought a new link and soldered it to the factory connection that I cut open then taped that sucker up. Fired right up. I’m watching it because I don’t like to rely solely on electrical tape and a bad soldering job

 

+1 to 3g. My truck would not charge and of course some hillbillies had gone through the wiring. I finally got it to the point of “charging” except it was only putting out like 12.3 volts. After all that pain and headache with new voltage regulator, connectors and splicing wires I broke down and did 3g. All I had to do was cut the ammeter wire (fat yellow with back tracer on mine) and connect it to battery positive and my charging woes were solved. Plus there’s plenty of amperage there for electric fans, aftermarket radios and lights etc.

 

I don't have any photos handy, but there are quite a few discussions about the swap, with pictures here on the forums. In fact, most of the forums are now full of those discussions because any of our trucks all the way back to the fifties are benefiting from the swap.
What Vamisk and the others are doing is basically going from the stock 1G (first generation for lack of better terminology), skipping the 2G (which was not one of Ford's better ideas) and going to the 3rd generation alternator which, like the 2g and most other modern alternator designs from the seventies on up, got rid of the external voltage regulator on the body and replaced it with an internally mounted voltage regulator. So there's one less component and a lot less wiring and hassle, all in one nice modest size package.
Oh, and with a crap-ton more power too! Even the "small" 3G is rated at 95 amps, with the more powerful one rated at 130a and both usually capable of at least a little more than that.

Your original from '77 may have had somewhere between 45 and 55 amps, with replacements up to about 65a before going with more custom aftermarket units. 3G's start at 95a and go up from there, with much more power output at idle than the old ones too, so there's less trouble when you're just idling with the heater, headlights and hazards flashing. All with fewer wires, as mentioned. Pretty good stuff.
They were basically standard equipment on Ford starting in the early '90's I think. Many of them are direct retrofits physically (other than swapping a serpentine pulley for a v-belt), with just a few minor modifications to the wiring to make them all work.
Some are completely incompatible however, so you can't just go out and grab one out of an '04 with a 5.4 engine and hope it'll mount. There are lists of compatible donors like Taurus' and such, so if you go that route after all someone will probably have saved the list they can post up for you.

Almost forgot to mention what is probably the only downside to the swap, and that's belt squeal with the wrong V-belt pulleys used. It's not an issue at all if you can utilize a dual-groove pulley, or have one of the larger diameter deep groove single pulleys. I used a dual-sheave pulley on the big alt in my '71 with a 302, but can't do that yet on my '79 with 400 due to the crank and water pump pulleys not having two grooves of the same diameter next to each other. But the larger diameter pulley on there now will supposedly (hopefully!) avoid any belt squeal.

I'm still happy with my 105a large case 1G in the pickup, but have an Explorer serpentine setup and 3G alternator (actually it's a 4G but with virtually the same electrical connections as the 3G) in my Bronco. When the other one finally craps out, it'll get swapped for a 3G as well.

Paul

 

thanks Paul