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IDE? You mean those fat ribbon cables that should have been superior but were never revised? Guess there's no need with pcie now..
I've got to order some stuff and may get some things for an ardrino mega I have and see if i can't figure something out..
Alot have asked how I control my vgt but I don't want to really want to offer any options til I have something with adjustable on the fly adaptability. Either all open source for the creative or a paid for option for those who don't have the time..
Figured first will be set maps, then later on an actual learn function so it will work when under different load options such as heavy wind, grades and towing. A nice small touch screen would be cool to change maps or a multi position switch...
Only paid for option is $700, which is pure greedy bs, this can be done for under $100 in parts I think. Marketed between $250-$350 and it would actually be an option for alot of people....
I'd like to see something where you add a couple of supplied sensors, run a few wires and your golden for under $500 all in..
They say it can't be done, but they said the same thing about the vgt in the first place, yet alone the 9/16 studs I installed BY HAND, just more reason to try I guess
Vgt is superior, even after all the flack they get..a year and a half and mine still hasn't stuck or failed and it was used..I just cleaned everything very well when I put it in. Oven cleaner works good for built up soot. Just keep it away from aluminum..
IDE? You mean those fat ribbon cables that should have been superior but were never revised? Guess there's no need with pcie now..
I've got to order some stuff and may get some things for an ardrino mega I have and see if i can't figure something out..
Alot have asked how I control my vgt but I don't want to really want to offer any options til I have something with adjustable on the fly adaptability. Either all open source for the creative or a paid for option for those who don't have the time..
Figured first will be set maps, then later on an actual learn function so it will work when under different load options such as heavy wind, grades and towing. A nice small touch screen would be cool to change maps or a multi position switch...
Only paid for option is $700, which is pure greedy bs, this can be done for under $100 in parts I think. Marketed between $250-$350 and it would actually be an option for alot of people....
I'd like to see something where you add a couple of supplied sensors, run a few wires and your golden for under $500 all in..
They say it can't be done, but they said the same thing about the vgt in the first place, yet alone the 9/16 studs I installed BY HAND, just more reason to try I guess
Vgt is superior, even after all the flack they get..a year and a half and mine still hasn't stuck or failed and it was used..I just cleaned everything very well when I put it in. Oven cleaner works good for built up soot. Just keep it away from aluminum..
AND YES I understand the Bloat that some might be attempting to get....I have no use for those folks> IMHO they are SCAMMERs
a couple supplied sensors would be a starting point.... I think TPS would be the primary sensor... and maybe engine RPM with a manifold pressure sensor
I think you could make a MAP from that and at that point determine where vanes should be.
not sure why you would want to monitor exhaust back pressure at this point
and we haven't talked about turbine RPM yet.............
Turbine rpm is important, but not all turbos have the sensor for it, mine doesn't. But it's almost similar to a Duramax turbo that iirc might have had one. Maybe I can add easily? It's really only important or needed when exhaust braking. I oversped mine once when I hit 50psi of back pressure braking down in a hurry from 70 to a dead stop. It squeeled once I got back in it...
Back pressure is monitored on most trucks oem equiped with a vgt, it's the main sensor you need. Ideal is 1:1, drive vs boost, real world 1.5:1, for emissions 2:1 works well. But even about 2:1 you can make more power if it's at a lower rpm.
The $700 controller basically only reads drive and boost and keeps the turbo at whatever ratio of the two you prefer. 2-3:1 is fun sub 2k but above that you need more breathing room...
My truck will scoot when it builds 10-15 psi sub 2k....but above that 1.5-1 seems best. I max out about 20psi of intercooled boost, about all the stock 7.3 pump is good for...
Might be a bit late or out of the budget but wes at classic diesel designs modifies all kinds of idi turbos for way more flow than a wicked wheel, he also some some bolt on replacement options as well as some bolt on mods.
I just looked and noticed he's also modifying banks and earlier ats turbos too.
yeah, i wanted to get something from him but the timeframe just didnt work out. he is about three weeks out on most work right now. im gonna see how this does, my guy said i will need intercooler if i do more and im already doing a lot. im just hoping this will let me tow at 55 uphill
Thank you. The previous owner ran the stock exhaust to the end of the cab and then crimped a 4 inch straight pipe which I made it into a downturn with a 5 inch tip. My motor is rebuilt to turbo standard and bored 30 over with head studs and just recently I got the baby moose injection pump with stage one injectors which adds a decent amount of power from the stock set up. My turbo has been rebuilt as well still running stock compressor and exhaust wheels and I’m pushing 8-10lbs. As far as I know I still have the stock downpipe where it’s crammed underneath the cab with all the original manifold piping including the donut pipe which I’d like to get rid of somehow and run it like the 7.3 power stroke piping along with the banks 3 inch downpipe which hopefully would increase performance and decrease EGTs and hopefully add a nice whistle to it like yours.
i suggest contacting justin at r&d and gtn his 3" dp, he fabbed it after the ats pipe, him like wes are busy guys but that crimped pipe is the big restriction, my motor was rebuilt too when i got this truck, new tranny too, guy had more in receipts than i paid for it but ive spent double that by now gtn her up to speed
Might be a bit late or out of the budget but wes at classic diesel designs modifies all kinds of idi turbos for way more flow than a wicked wheel, he also some some bolt on replacement options as well as some bolt on mods.
I just looked and noticed he's also modifying banks and earlier ats turbos too.
who makes the best turbos for the 7.3 idi's.(ats, banks, etc) when i 1st got mine i never thought of needing a turbo but on a trip to AZ the looong hills would slow me down to a crawl(50-55 mph) so thats when i decided i would like to put a turbo system on her if it is monetarily feasable....
who makes the best turbos for the 7.3 idi's.(ats, banks, etc) when i 1st got mine i never thought of needing a turbo but on a trip to AZ the looong hills would slow me down to a crawl(50-55 mph) so thats when i decided i would like to put a turbo system on her if it is monetarily feasable....
The ats 093 has the most after market support. The factory turbo is a close second since its practically identical except it comes with a pre-crushed down-pipe. Both use Garrett turbos and both have a wastegate but owners routinely disconnect and wire them shut to get more boost. 088 isnt bad. I push 13lbs on a 088 with a stock non-turbo injection pump maxed, but not many companies support them. It also uses a garrett turbo but doesnt have a waste gate and has funky exhaust housing which limits down-pipe sizing but it works. I dont know much about the banks except it uses a Mitsubishi (i think) turbo which isnt well supported. I may be wrong. I dont have much info on the hypermax but it uses tbe stock aircleaner assembly and isnt well supported.
Some one can correct me if they feel this is inaccurate.
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