Rocker Nut Installation
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
Rocker Nut Installation
I didn't pay enough attention when I removed the rocker arms, and now I don't know which way they face. The nuts each have a flat face and a semi domed face: which mates with the Valve Rocker Arm Fulcrum and which to the jam nut?
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
Thanks! interesting thing is my head has the rocker, pivot ball, nut and second nut that was used as a jam nut. I wonder what the previous rebuilder's reason was for adding the second nut.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
Likes: 112
The 83 head uses non adjustable rocker arm studs that have a 5/16" thread and a 3/8 shoulder.
The 5/16" nut gets torqued down on the 3/8" shoulder and should not need a second locking nut. Of course the second nut won't hurt anything.
Did you get the rotating exhaust retainer situation straighten up?
The 5/16" nut gets torqued down on the 3/8" shoulder and should not need a second locking nut. Of course the second nut won't hurt anything.
Did you get the rotating exhaust retainer situation straighten up?
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
The 83 head uses non adjustable rocker arm studs that have a 5/16" thread and a 3/8 shoulder.
The 5/16" nut gets torqued down on the 3/8" shoulder and should not need a second locking nut. Of course the second nut won't hurt anything.
Did you get the rotating exhaust retainer situation straighten up?
The 5/16" nut gets torqued down on the 3/8" shoulder and should not need a second locking nut. Of course the second nut won't hurt anything.
Did you get the rotating exhaust retainer situation straighten up?
Yes, I found 6 NOS retainers for $14 delivered. They fit like gloves, and now I have 5 good, used spares.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
Two steps forward, and one step back... or Why I should listen to that little voice when it says "It's time to stop."
When I went to torque the nuts, I was a very good boy and checked the manual. The little chart showed standard torques for fasteners from smallest to largest. I checked the socket for the nut size and consulted the chart. 9/16" nut; chart says 85 ft/lbs for 9/16" fasteners. It seemed like a lot, but even after checking again 85 ft/lbs was my number.
Did you catch my error? 9/16" Socket, but the threaded part was 5/16". The torque for 5/16" is 18 ft/lbs.
So, the good news is the stud did NOT strip...
The bad news is ... it broke.
So it is off to order studs. Then to figure out a way of pulling the old one and replace it while I wait on the mail.
"I told you it was time to quit," said the voice.
"Shut up you gosh darned forking ice-hole!"
When I went to torque the nuts, I was a very good boy and checked the manual. The little chart showed standard torques for fasteners from smallest to largest. I checked the socket for the nut size and consulted the chart. 9/16" nut; chart says 85 ft/lbs for 9/16" fasteners. It seemed like a lot, but even after checking again 85 ft/lbs was my number.
Did you catch my error? 9/16" Socket, but the threaded part was 5/16". The torque for 5/16" is 18 ft/lbs.
So, the good news is the stud did NOT strip...
The bad news is ... it broke.
So it is off to order studs. Then to figure out a way of pulling the old one and replace it while I wait on the mail.
"I told you it was time to quit," said the voice.
"Shut up you gosh darned forking ice-hole!"
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
Likes: 112
You will need to thread the 3/8" part of the stud so you can get a nut on it to pull on.
MELLING MRDS943. you should be able to get one at the local parts stores.
Is the cylinder head off the engine?
Did you find the two locating dowels that go between the head and the block?
MELLING MRDS943. you should be able to get one at the local parts stores.
Is the cylinder head off the engine?
Did you find the two locating dowels that go between the head and the block?
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
So off with the head, and over to the machine shop? Or buy a jy head and start from scratch. or put it together and run it on 5. I would have been better off buying a remanufactured head 
Sorry for venting; I'm a bit displeased with myself right now.
Sorry for venting; I'm a bit displeased with myself right now.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
Locator pins: I found a picture of them in a block. No, I haven't located any. Rock Auto is the only place that lists them for the correct year and engine... and the are backordered. At least I learned the size from them: 0.676" by 7/16". Made some calls and got the usual run around (does it have a/c?). Nobody seems to have them or really know what I'm talking about. maybe that is another vote for the jy.
I'm just soooooo p@ssed that I took the time to do some very mild porting only to see it up torquing a bolt.
I'm just soooooo p@ssed that I took the time to do some very mild porting only to see it up torquing a bolt.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 715
Likes: 112
You can take advantage of your situation if you want.
Now would be an ideal time to replace all the studs with screw in studs.
Or you can simply have the shop pull the broken stud and replace it with a new stud.
The replacement stud is the MELLING MRDS943 which you can get a local auto parts store.
Melling Rocker Arm Stud MRDS943 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Or Summit
Melling MRDS-943 (summitracing.com)
Now would be an ideal time to replace all the studs with screw in studs.
Or you can simply have the shop pull the broken stud and replace it with a new stud.
The replacement stud is the MELLING MRDS943 which you can get a local auto parts store.
Melling Rocker Arm Stud MRDS943 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Or Summit
Melling MRDS-943 (summitracing.com)
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
You can take advantage of your situation if you want.
Now would be an ideal time to replace all the studs with screw in studs.
Or you can simply have the shop pull the broken stud and replace it with a new stud.
The replacement stud is the MELLING MRDS943 which you can get a local auto parts store.
Melling Rocker Arm Stud MRDS943 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Or Summit
Melling MRDS-943 (summitracing.com)
Now would be an ideal time to replace all the studs with screw in studs.
Or you can simply have the shop pull the broken stud and replace it with a new stud.
The replacement stud is the MELLING MRDS943 which you can get a local auto parts store.
Melling Rocker Arm Stud MRDS943 | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Or Summit
Melling MRDS-943 (summitracing.com)
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
Sorry, my post was poorly phrased. I meant to say the cost of replacing them all would be more than a new one. I found a place that quoted $100 for the two bad studs, and I will get them replaced.
The owner of the shop seemed to take pity on me. He was looking at the broken stud and mumbled, "I wonder how this broke?" After I said, "I broke it." and recounted my stupid error, he chuckled, shook his head, and said, "Yeah, it happens." I got the feeling he was recalling some bonehead mistake he had made.
The owner of the shop seemed to take pity on me. He was looking at the broken stud and mumbled, "I wonder how this broke?" After I said, "I broke it." and recounted my stupid error, he chuckled, shook his head, and said, "Yeah, it happens." I got the feeling he was recalling some bonehead mistake he had made.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
We've all been there, and done stuff like that! Welcome to the club. 
It is frustrating though, especially since all it would have taken is maybe a double check, or a different thought.
If it were me, I'd have all the studs pulled and redone with screw in studs. I believe my machine shop asked for $125 to redo all of the studs with screw in studs, plus the cost of the studs, which were about $50 - $60. Don't cheap out on the studs, get ARP.
Keep in mind that if you go with screw in studs, you will have to adjust them manually, as they'll no longer be a simple torque down.
Otherwise, you can just have that stud pulled out and a new one pressed in.
Either way, you didn't ruin the head, just the stud.
It is frustrating though, especially since all it would have taken is maybe a double check, or a different thought.
If it were me, I'd have all the studs pulled and redone with screw in studs. I believe my machine shop asked for $125 to redo all of the studs with screw in studs, plus the cost of the studs, which were about $50 - $60. Don't cheap out on the studs, get ARP.
Keep in mind that if you go with screw in studs, you will have to adjust them manually, as they'll no longer be a simple torque down.
Otherwise, you can just have that stud pulled out and a new one pressed in.
Either way, you didn't ruin the head, just the stud.
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 529
Likes: 54
From: Houston
We've all been there, and done stuff like that! Welcome to the club.
It is frustrating though, especially since all it would have taken is maybe a double check, or a different thought.
If it were me, I'd have all the studs pulled and redone with screw in studs. I believe my machine shop asked for $125 to redo all of the studs with screw in studs, plus the cost of the studs, which were about $50 - $60. Don't cheap out on the studs, get ARP.
Keep in mind that if you go with screw in studs, you will have to adjust them manually, as they'll no longer be a simple torque down.
Otherwise, you can just have that stud pulled out and a new one pressed in.
Either way, you didn't ruin the head, just the stud.
It is frustrating though, especially since all it would have taken is maybe a double check, or a different thought.
If it were me, I'd have all the studs pulled and redone with screw in studs. I believe my machine shop asked for $125 to redo all of the studs with screw in studs, plus the cost of the studs, which were about $50 - $60. Don't cheap out on the studs, get ARP.
Keep in mind that if you go with screw in studs, you will have to adjust them manually, as they'll no longer be a simple torque down.
Otherwise, you can just have that stud pulled out and a new one pressed in.
Either way, you didn't ruin the head, just the stud.
Good news is I got the head back today: two press in studs for $106 by a company with a good reputation ( going hourly rate around here is 75/hour). The master/owner said it went well, and I think it looks good. While not clean enough for me to install it without a cleaning (I've come too far to cut corners), it was clearly done with cleanliness in mind.
I didn't want to go with screw ins because a rebuilt head is only about twice what you paid for the studs. My guess is the original head lasted 200, 000 miles. Actually, there was very little wrong with the head except for about two pounds of carbon. I'm not planning on hauling anything heavy and I've done the porting, so the old gal should be make it to half a million miles or my demise, whichever comes first.