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So I'm gettin ready to yank this thing and have a couple things I'm wondering... (I typically work on Jap crap, nothing this big).
I want to tug just the block out and leave the trans/ transfer case for now until I roll the cab back out of my way ( it's a space issue). Anyone know a good way to leave the trans in? Just put a jack under the front? Looks like the bulk of the weight will be towards front, yah?
AND, if I have to yank it all in one fell swoop~ any idea on the weight of the c6/ np205 combo? The transfer case looks to be a HEAVY pig.
a jack under the transmission is good as long as you don't want to move it. I have used a jack then put a come along under it to hold it up after I was done.
I'm not sure what the whole combination would weight but it would be a lot. at the very least I'd pull the T case if you decide to do it all. it will be so tail heavy you're going to really fight it.
I had a bar that went across frame rails and put a bolt thru two of the tranny mounting holes and let bar rest on frame, used a jack while pulling engine, then added bar and removed jack.
Awesome ideas guys... thanks. My hoist is rated for 2k. I know it wouldn't max it out, it's just a space thing. No room in my shop to swing the whole kit and kaboodle out. And yah, the transfer is fricken heavy. Too heavy I think for a big *** pull like that. I'll take the block first, then roll the cab back and tug the trans combo out. Prolly the easiest.
Yep, all good. I've used a cable. And used a piece of rebar once. Once, for an unlike engine swap, I fabricated a fixed mount to the transmission, so I could keep my pinion angles the same with new engine. And yes, the transfer case is an unwieldy beast to maneuver. Much more so than than transmission.
X2...2..2 use a floor jack and hold it at the current angle for removal. Then when you need to move the truck, use a piece of angle iron across the frame, or a heavy duty ratchet strap. I like the 2 bolt idea in the housing also.
NP-205 is 130 to 140 dry weight. I know they will smash a finger tip in a quickness. Use your cherry picker once the cab is slide back.
Also are you using a carb attachment plate or the piece of chain diagonally (or the 4 short pieces and a leveler) using the bolt holes in the heads?
Also are you using a carb attachment plate or the piece of chain diagonally (or the 4 short pieces and a leveler) using the bolt holes in the heads?
I have a home made carb plate that fits to the intake my friend made like 30 years ago or better (owns a shop down the road)... 1/2" steel plate with a loop welded on~ said he's pulled over a 100 engines with it. I was trying to determine the 1/2" bolts I will need to mount it? Guessing 1-1/4" or so? Was just gonna hit up the local Ace Hardware and get some grade 8's to cinch the plate down. Sound correct? I don't have a bar like yours. The majority of 4 bangers or 6's I have pulled were Toyotas and typically had hooks mounted to the engine (Or some tabs I bolted to the block to help yank them).
I'm guessing the plate for the intake is gonna leave the block a bit off kilter or something?
I know a lot of engines have been and will be pulled with a carb plate. I am not that trusting. I would depth check the bolt holes and get the longest you can use. A leveler sure makes it easy to tilt is one way or the other come install time. Especially when working by yourself. But a leveler will not work in a situation like this. Some FTE member got it out of there.
They should be 5/16" bolts usually. the length will depend somewhat on the thickness of your lift plate.
I use 1" grade 8 bolts then if needed I use washers to take up any slack. I want them in there good. I just snug them up too since there's no need to put additional stress on them . I'm sure 3/4" grade 5 bolts would do the job but it makes me feel better.
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