Hey everyone just got done wrapping up the wheel bearings on my 93 F250 with the DANA 50 TTB front Axel decided to go ahead and give some insight into how to pull everything apart and put it back together.

Loosen the lug nuts on the tire, Jack the truck up or put it on a lift if ones available. If you’re using a Jack make sure to use Jack stands. There’s a couple different spots under the front that are a good spot for Jack stands.

with the truck in the air and the lugs loosened, go ahead and remove the lug nuts and then pull the tire. I found it easier to just get the tire out of the way first rather than pulling the hub lock first.

Go ahead and pull the brake caliper off, push the set pins, one on top one on bottom, our and then just pull the caliper off and set it on the leaf spring.

remove the screws on the hub lock using an Alan wrench pull the hub lock face off and set aside. Remove the outer retainer ring from the hub body, some are compression if they’re the older style just get a pick or flat head under one side and then needle nose it out or use your hands. The other type could be a spiral install. If it was installed properly there will be a little tan on the outer tab bent out use a pair of needle nose and spiral the ring back out.

Using a pair of snap ring pliers remove the snap ring on the outer Axel shaft splines, then remove the locking screw on the outer edge of the hub lock body. Pull the center of the hub lock body out. And the remains of the hub lock body should be easier to grab and pull out as well.

at this point with the hub lock removed, you’ll be up against the lock Nut/washer/nut setup. Grab the special socket, which you can rent from most big box parts stores I chose to buy mine, and loosen and remove the outer lock nut. Then remove the Lock mute washer and finally use the socket again and remove the inner lock nut.

with a good tug you should be able to pull the hub and brake rotor off. CAREFUL, the outer bearing may fall out of the hub as you’re pulling it off don’t want it to fall on the ground. The inner bearings and race should still be seated in the hub. Set the hub and rotor aside.

next remove the 5 spindle nuts holding the spindle. It my take some suggesting to get the spindle off. I found a nice piece of 2X4 and a 5 pound sledge did the trick. Some people have bad luck with a cold chisel and hammer around the spindle in between the spindle and knuckle. The hammer and wood worked best for me. Or a dead blow never hurts.

remove the brake dust guard, it just slides off.

with the spindle removed, you should have access to the short shaft, if you’re on the driver side be careful with pulling the Axel in and out if you pull it out too far you will lose differential fluid. The passenger side does not pull straight out so no worries there.

on the shaft, just at the first U joint point you’ll see a seal, go ahead and remove the seal I personally found a smaller flat head as a gentle pry worked best but be careful not to score or gouge the surface.

Now back to the hub we set aside earlier, remove the wheel seal on the back of the hub. Once again there’s many ways to do so, I found either a punch through the other side of the hub to the wheel seal worked or a flat head hammer into it and then pry it out punching new holes around the seal as you Roy it out.

the outer race is the first to remove, go ahead and get a brass punch or if you’ve got a race install remover kit nows the time to pull it out.

punch the outer race out towards what would be the outer of the hub, I found easiest to punch them out instead of trying to to pull the outer while the hub was still attached to the spindle/knuckle assembly.

slowly but surely it should come out, however if it doesn’t, don’t be afraid to heat up the hub a little and use some persuasion. Worst case scenario they a drimmel and slowly thin the race out until you can brake/crack it once you’ve done that it will basically fall out.

the inner race is next, using the same method punch this one out towards the inner of the hub.

inspect your race seats for any burs or gouges, if minor some emery cloth and smooth the bur down. Be careful though, don’t spend too much time in the same spot.

clean the hub completely of old grease. I like a degreaser then a brake cleaner method, this is your “you will use lots of rags/towels” notifier as well!

set your new races, your outer race will be thin side out, towards the outside of the hub or where the hub lock goes in. The inner race will be thin side out, or towards the knuckle.

Use a grease for your vehicle make sure it’s for Disc brakes Grease the entire hub with new geese don’t need a thick coating just a light coating. Make sure to grease where the races seat. Grease your new races outside inside just a nice light coating. beat them down until they set, go slow, you may have to restart if you notice it not moving or if you’ve started to get them angled. Nows the time to rent a race/bearing driver from your local auto parts store. If absolutely out of the question find some flat like a board hammer the race in straight to start and then slowly brass punch it around the race down. If this is out of your comfort zone find something at a parts store or hardware store that you can use as a driver maybe a piece of pipe?

Once the races are installed, pack the inner bearings with grease and then some grease on the outside sand inside of the bearings and set it in the inner race. install the wheel seal. I found a pulley that was the perfect side to get it in square. If not slowly tap around the outside edge of the wheel seal with a small hammer making sure to keep it as even as possible. I also found it helpful to grease the seal a little and the area it seats.

inspect your spindle, being specific to where the bearings ride on the spindle, if they’re gouged or burred badly you’ll need to source a new spindle if not clean and grease the spindle. Inspect the spindle needle bearing on the back side of the spindle do a visually look for unusual wear on the spindle bearings.

if the spindle bearings need replaced, remove the spindle seal a flat head works well just get it under the lip edge and pry it out. Flip the spindle over. I made a homemade punch out of a 12-14 inch piece of 1/2 all thread, two lock washers 2 nuts and two fender washers. Set up as nut, lock washer both fender washers, lock washer, nut and tighten down. Through the spindle work your way around the spindle bearing a tap it out. I promise it will come out.

Clean the spindle of grease, pack the spindle bearings, geese the spindle in the area of where the bearing goes and use a bearing driver to seat the spindle bearing. Install the new seal. Just some light love taps with a small hammer will do. In fact I think I used an IKEA hammer I got in a furniture box lol.

install the new seal at the Axel stub where the U joint is, just tap it on. I found some light taps with a screw driver set it done without damage. Just go all the way around keeping it decently straight. A piece of pvc would work here too!

Put a light coating of geese on the knuckle and on the spindle. Or some anti seize works. Just to help keep the spindle from permanently adhering to the knuckle again.

install the brake dust shield, install the spindle over the Axel stub, to the brake dust shield. Nows the time to think about cleaning your threads if you hadn’t on the knuckle but torque the spindle nut bolts down to 65 ft pounds.

Install the hub, set it wiggle it back and forth and then press at the same time you’ll feel it seat, pack your outer bearings and install the outer bearings into the hub.

On your lock nut/washer/nut set find the lock nut that has the little pin on it it installs first with the pin facing you, torque the nut down to 50 ft pounds while spinning the hub back and forth this to time pre load and set the bearings. Once torqued down back it off about a 1/4 of a turn and then install the lock kit washer with the holes in it onto the shaft. If you’ve gotta back the nut just a kick more or a kick forward to get it to match up that’s okay. Then install your final lock nut, torque this one down to minimum 120 foot pounds. 2 clicks as always.

clean the locking hub of old grease, grease the locking hub body, and install the body into the hub, a screw the lock nut back in and then install the snap ring, once the snap ring is installed depending on which style of outer ring you had install the outer ring.

install the hub lock face with the 6 screws or however many are on your lock face. Install the face in the unlocked position,

reinstall your tire, all done!

I may have missed some things so feel free to point anything out definitely ask questions. My hub was completely destroyed along with my spindle so it took a little time to figure out what was supposed to be where. Considering I had done bearings before but just never on these specific trucks there were questions I was searching for answers for. I hope this helps someone else in the future and next time I’ll take pictures of processes.