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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 06:27 PM
  #1  
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Engine suddenly dies

I just had my injectors rebuilt. I installed them, and went for a test drive, and everything seemed OK. The next morning I hooked up an empty gooseneck flatbed, and after about 20 miles the engine just suddenly died. Crank but no start. After waiting a while, it started again and ran fine. I took it back home and installed my new spare CMP. Test drove it again; everything OK.

I hooked up the trailer again the next morning and went from AZ to TX. Loaded up a tractor and started back. Halfway through NM it suddenly died again. This time I was stuck on the highway with a guardrail on the side. Someone came along in a Nissan Frontier (!) and pulled my 20k pound rig 200 feet farther up the slope so I could get off the road. After waiting an hour it started up again and drove back to AZ with no further issue.

Only codes present are P1211 and P1212. This is to be expected with a sudden shutdown. After clearing them, they don't come back while driving. The problem is pretty much impossible to replicate for testing, but it's a serious safety issue and I'm scratching my head.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 06:30 PM
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Almost sounds like a failing IPR solenoid, what with the waiting an hour and firing back up each time. But that's a long ways of driving in between. Tinman nut tight?
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 06:40 PM
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Check the pigtail and harness on the ipr real good as well
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 06:51 PM
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I second to check the IPR, tinnerman nut first and cool it with cold water or canned air when it dies and see if it solves it. If so, time for a new IPR (you can't buy just the solenoid).
 
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 12:30 AM
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When checking the harness to the 42 pin connector inspect the underside of the wire harness that goes over the driver side valve cover. It can chafe on the VC and cause intermittent shorts.

You can test the electrical part of the IPR. Grab a voltmeter and check the resistance, should be in the neighborhood of 10.5 ohms. And as mentioned above if it responds to cooling that's a good sign the IPR is dying.


 
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Old Mar 3, 2021 | 07:53 AM
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If you decide to replace the tin nut on the IPR, you can get a more substantial one of the following size: 1/2-20 UNF

Just to piggyback on what David has said, below are the specifications Ford says the IPR coil should be within.

 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 10:33 AM
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The ipr appears to be leaking slightly. So at least I need a rebuild kit for it. The coil ohms well within specs. I think I will try heating it in the oven and see if it still ohms good.

The ipr pigtail needs replacement as well. Also there's another pigtail that I don't like (circled in red). What is that one?



 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 10:35 AM
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Water in fuel sensor/fuel bowl heater

Unless you live in a cold climate, and upgrade to the updated heating element just leave it unplugged
 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 02:53 PM
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Well I heated up the solenoid in the oven to 230 degrees then checked the ohms. Open circuit! After a few minutes I got readings in the million ohm range, then it gradually fell through the thousands and the hundreds to within spec when the solenoid was just warm to the touch.

I don't know for sure, but I very much doubt that it's supposed to be temp-sensitive like that. It's just a coil of wire after all. So I'm going to replace the ipr.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 02:14 AM
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Great work, gotta love test results!

Also replace the missing bolt on the driver side intake plenum before you get a leak.

And if it was mine I'd install new HPOP lines, yours are old and subject to high pressures all the time.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by One Sock
Well I heated up the solenoid in the oven to 230 degrees then checked the ohms. Open circuit! After a few minutes I got readings in the million ohm range, then it gradually fell through the thousands and the hundreds to within spec when the solenoid was just warm to the touch.

I don't know for sure, but I very much doubt that it's supposed to be temp-sensitive like that. It's just a coil of wire after all. So I'm going to replace the ipr.
Well done! You are right, it is not designed to be "temperature sensitive".
 
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by aawlberninf350
Also replace the missing bolt on the driver side intake plenum before you get a leak.
Yeah, I tried taking the nut off the stud just to get the wire out of the way, but the whole stud came out. I still haven't got the nut to come off.
 
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