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That's electric. You connect switched 12v and it will work. Unscrew the 3 screws and turn it left to have it open slower and turn it right to open faster. Tighten the screws and check fast idle speed when done.
I'm curious. Was that carb originally a hot air/vacuum choke? The reason I ask is because of that metal half/round bracket that hangs in front of the choke. That is for the heater hose to ride in. Usually you find those on hot air chokes, not electric ones.
I see a bolt in that rear angled fitting. Looks like they plugged it that way, but if your threads are still good you can grab a brass/stainless cap that will fit right over it. I've done it on several carbs over the years when the chock stove setup fell apart.
Yours looks like a Holley choke spring on a stock carburetor. So yes, originally you had both the choke stove fittings from the stock exhaust (or intake manifold depending on which engine) and the heater hose to help keep things going. Perhaps they wanted to get rid of it all, or it deteriorated, or they got headers and changed hose routing or whatever. Maybe the old choke spring died, or they swapped to the Holley because all that other stuff was no longer in place and they wanted a full electric choke.
Whatever reason, that's what you've got now.
I've seen aftermarket chokes run on switched 12v like they say in the instructions, and also seen them work with the original White w/black stripe stator wire from the original choke. At least a few have reported no problems and a perfectly good working choke with the original wire. But since "your results may vary" I would try it and see. If it does not work to your satisfaction you can find another wire for a switched 12v source.
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