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-I have a 4160 Holley looks like and my old 2bbl had manual choke from POwner (which I prefer)(gonna wait to order manual choke for this carb until I get others things done).
-In the meantime, where do I grab power for this electric choke?
-Do some of you just put 12v on a toggle switch for morning starts and work it manually?
Thanks,
JB
My choice would be to splice into your ignition switch. Hook to the 'run' position. Make sure to add a 10 amp fuse.
DO NOT hook it to the + side of the coil.
You can attach to the stator side of the alt, it will put out a bit over 7 volts. If your choke was designed for a full 12 volts then it may be sluggish.
The OEM electric 'assist' chokes ran on 7 volts from the alt but were supplemented with a hot air tube from the engine to help during warm up.
My choice would be to splice into your ignition switch. Hook to the 'run' position. Make sure to add a 10 amp fuse.
DO NOT hook it to the + side of the coil.
You can attach to the stator side of the alt, it will put out a bit over 7 volts. If your choke was designed for a full 12 volts then it may be sluggish.
The OEM electric 'assist' chokes ran on 7 volts from the alt but were supplemented with a hot air tube from the engine to help during warm up.
Just a thought, old jeepers use the oil sensor line to run their chokes (tap off the line feed).
Not sure if that is to much load on the small wore or not.
Just a thought but I can run a separate wire if need be.
Thanks.
The oil pressure gauge on these Ford trucks uses a sending unit that screws into the block that grounds the circuit. As the oil pressure in the engine changes, the sender changes the amount of resistance to ground.
In other words, the sending unit is on the wrong side of the circuit to provide power to anything.
Pretty sure the oil pressure indicator light circuit works the same way.
Wire it to the run position on your ignition switch with a fuse.
The oil pressure gauge on these Ford trucks uses a sending unit that screws into the block that grounds the circuit. As the oil pressure in the engine changes, the sender changes the amount of resistance to ground.
In other words, the sending unit is on the wrong side of the circuit to provide power to anything.
Pretty sure the oil pressure indicator light circuit works the same way.
Wire it to the run position on your ignition switch with a fuse.
Sounds good, just an observation I thought about.
Thanks,
Just a thought, old jeepers use the oil sensor line to run their chokes (tap off the line feed).
Not sure if that is to much load on the small wore or not.
Just a thought but I can run a separate wire if need be.
Thanks.
All your gauges work with a constant voltage regulator that only puts out 5 volts. If you hooked it up to a high current draw like a choke it would burn up the CVR in short order. Like was said in the other posts you need a separate wire with it's own fuse.
In the climate you have down there you probably don't even need a choke. One thing to keep in mind with those electric chokes, unlike a stove choke, is that they have no way of knowing your engine is warm. If you drive it somewhere and get out for 20 minutes that choke is going to go full on if you step on the accelerator pedal. You may have to adjust it until it only closes 2/3 to 3/4 closed. Just enough to get it on the high idle cam but not so much that it floods the engine.
After the thermostat opens, engine temp and ambient temperature inside the engine compartment prevents the choke from closing back up except in extreme cold weather conditions.
The electric choke wire should be routed to the stator terminal on the alternator.
