How much time/money do you have to invest? Pretty much everything is in jeopardy if you don't actually finish it and enjoy it.
The difference between a Coyote transplant and a bolt-in swap is huge, just getting everything prepared for the Coyote is a hurdle; think about changing front suspension, steering, exhaust, motor mounts, fuel system, wiring - all those bits and pieces before you even have a engine/trans to drop in. 302/351?, just drop it in with all stock Ford parts. I would think any small block Ford with electronic ignition and a bolt-on simple EFI would be as reliable as anything out there.
What really makes me smile is what you said about the memories you have of the sound of your dad/grand-dad driving it. That's exactly what I remember about those old low-rpm things going thru the gears - it sure as heck didn't sound like a Coyote having to go to 6,000 rpm to make a little torque, buzzing like a chain-saw.
I would vote for a 351-based crate motor with a warranty, enough cam to make us old-timers smile, and a 5-speed to get an overdrive for cross-country.
Avoiding fabrication/major modifications will give you more time/money to spend on those large/small details, and it is those details that make a show truck a winner, and a reliable driver.
Go for it, and keep us posted on the progress!

 

You very obviously have not done recent swaps on both! Go ahead add up the costs of comparable engines of both. Been there done that.

8598.99 For a 460hp 5.0 Coyote.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6007-m50c


10,444.99 for comparable HP small block. That is just a long block. Add up the rest of parts needed! Then add a overdrive transmission to compare to a 6R80 or 10R80 or your choice of manual.


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m6007z2363ft

And yes excellent USED engines are bought every day with very low miles. from nearly zero miles to under 10k is a great choice. The ones I have purchased have had max under 6500 miles. Buy a donor use what is needed and then sell parts left over for more than you paid for entire donor. Gives you a transmission and wiring too.

I bought a new 450/510 Raptor Crate Engine for 7400 delivered to my door. Absolutely no way can you get a comparable HP/TQ small block for anywhere close to that. Especially by the time its on road with overdrive.
Very low mile 3.5 or 2.7 Eco engines can be bought for under 4k. But, he never mentioned Eco swap. He said 5.0 coyote or 351w. Thousands upon thousands of late model 5.0's out there for the taking.

I do know where there is a NOS 351w for Lightning never run with a Police Interceptor Trans that has been rebuilt. It may be for sale. Think rated at 245 hp but would be nice reliable cruiser.

 

The day I spend 9K on an engine for a car I am not going to race is the day I put my 1911 under my chin and gently squeeze one off.

Just my 900,000 cents.

Eric

 

I have no desire to argue...especially since the OP doesn't seem too interested in the discussion with a total of one post.

You're still stretching some details and that's not very helpful IMO. Your example of a sbf has a brand new aftermarket racing block which is pricey. The engine is a little bit "dressed" with water pump, damper pulley, and valve covers. Still needs fuel and ignition. Your coyote example does not include fuel pump, emission components, or control box which aren't cheap. I'm only guessing your price on a raptor engine still needs several dollars in parts to make it function...like controller, emission components, fuel pump... And you're forgetting the OP isn't interested in big HP...just a reliable show engine. I actually kinda like the idea of the inline 6 that was mentioned. Point is for the OP's goals, a sbf or inline 6 will do it and not necessarily be more expensive than a coyote. Maybe if you want all out performance the coyote makes roughly equal economical sense. I was trying to keep the OP's goals in mind.

 

If the OP is going to use Coyote power, he would also have to budget for other upgrades. (JMO, it's ok to drive with 460 HP on 100HP brakes and suspension.....)

Exploders and F150s and others in the last years of the 302 and 351w had roller cams. Find one with low miles (I know, easy to say). Pull the manifold and distributor, slap a more aggressive cam in there with a decent 4bbl manifold and a 600ish 4 bbl, shorty headers, correct distributor gear for the cam selected and motor on. Swerving suggestion.

I am partial to the 289/302 as I did rebuild one, it did run, it did stay together and it was easy to work on.

Good luck to the OP. There are no bad suggestions here, they just come with slightly different price tags and you are well advised by these posts to compare the cost of suggestions like mine vs. other options including Coyote swaps.

 

2x on this. To be clear, I don't want to come off as pooh-poohing Boss9F100's suggestions. The guy has some wicked cool creations when you look at some of the swaps and modifications Boss9F100 has posted. I just think the comments on cost, hp and reliability comparing options of a built sbf and a coyote were exaggerated.

There have been some recent products come out that make some really cool swaps possible...like using the 6R80 tranny behind older engines. A few years ago I wanted an overdrive behind my FE and went with a gear vendor. If the 6R80 controller and adaptor was available at the time, I would have taken a hard look at it.

 

Can I have your 1911 when your done with it?