Stall converter needed?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 200
Likes: 17
From: PNW-Western WA
Stall converter needed?
I originally posted this on the transmission/drivetrain page but didnt get any feedback so am reposting here.
I have a 1980 F350 DRW that is under going some engine work. The engine will have 9 - 9.3:1 compression, C6, 4.10 gears, intake, headers, tires are 31.6" tall (says Discount tire site), 2wd. I have ordered a
Comp Cam Grind Number:XE262H
Engine Family:Ford 351C, 351M-400M 8 Cylinder (1970-1983)
RPM Operating Range:1,400-5,600
Cam Type:Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Lifter Style:Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Camshaft Series:Xtreme Energy
Camshaft Gear Attachment:1-Bolt
Usage:Street/Performance
Valve Springs Required:Yes
Camshaft Material:Cast Iron
California Proposition 65:WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm P65Warnings.ca.gov
Advertised Intake Duration:262
Advertised Exhaust Duration:270
Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift:218
Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift:224
Intake Valve Lift:0.513
Exhaust Valve Lift:0.52
Lobe Separation:110
Assembly Lubricant Included:Yes
Intake Centerline:106
Lobe Lift Intake:0.298
Lobe Lift Exhaust:0.301
Summit says maybe a 2,000 stall converter, Comp says stock ok, machinist says I might want a converter.
What's the real answer, if there is one. Truck will do some light hauling, occasional heavier hauling, maybe some towing.
thanks for any help
I have a 1980 F350 DRW that is under going some engine work. The engine will have 9 - 9.3:1 compression, C6, 4.10 gears, intake, headers, tires are 31.6" tall (says Discount tire site), 2wd. I have ordered a
Comp Cam Grind Number:XE262H
Engine Family:Ford 351C, 351M-400M 8 Cylinder (1970-1983)
RPM Operating Range:1,400-5,600
Cam Type:Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Lifter Style:Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Camshaft Series:Xtreme Energy
Camshaft Gear Attachment:1-Bolt
Usage:Street/Performance
Valve Springs Required:Yes
Camshaft Material:Cast Iron
California Proposition 65:WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm P65Warnings.ca.gov
Advertised Intake Duration:262
Advertised Exhaust Duration:270
Intake Duration at .050 Inch Lift:218
Exhaust Duration at .050 Inch Lift:224
Intake Valve Lift:0.513
Exhaust Valve Lift:0.52
Lobe Separation:110
Assembly Lubricant Included:Yes
Intake Centerline:106
Lobe Lift Intake:0.298
Lobe Lift Exhaust:0.301
Summit says maybe a 2,000 stall converter, Comp says stock ok, machinist says I might want a converter.
What's the real answer, if there is one. Truck will do some light hauling, occasional heavier hauling, maybe some towing.
thanks for any help
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 467
Likes: 102
Comp Cams Cam and Lifter Kit
You dont need a hi stall torque converter.
You want to keep as much bottom end torque and off idle response as possible.
This will help your mileage.
with a 9.0-9.5 compression ratio it will help build bottom end torque so as long as it idles well you should be good
You want to keep as much bottom end torque and off idle response as possible.
This will help your mileage.
with a 9.0-9.5 compression ratio it will help build bottom end torque so as long as it idles well you should be good
Last edited by 5starCabF-3; Feb 24, 2021 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Additional information
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 1,156
From: Tolland, CT
I agree the 2,000 stall speed will be fine.
You bring back old memories. One time back in 1979, I got to race my buddies 440 Duster, fender well headers, 3500 stall speed converter, etc. He had never seen his car launched before, as he was always driving it. The car felt great when I brought the rpms up to 3500 with my left foot on the brake. When the last yellow light went out, I released the brake and gave it more gas. He was impressed with how the car left without much fuss.
BTW, when I got back to the starting area...the local cops and CHP had just arrived, Lucky, they didn't great there a few minutes earlier. The CHP officer was nice and held the flashlight while we took off the slicks and put the street tires back on. He did ask why are there screws in the rim...yes, one of the guy's made a home made christmas tree.
I had a 340 Duster 4 speed at that time. The buddy was amazed how much more volant my built 4 speed car was compared to his 440 with a torqueflight.
Sorry for the story...
You bring back old memories. One time back in 1979, I got to race my buddies 440 Duster, fender well headers, 3500 stall speed converter, etc. He had never seen his car launched before, as he was always driving it. The car felt great when I brought the rpms up to 3500 with my left foot on the brake. When the last yellow light went out, I released the brake and gave it more gas. He was impressed with how the car left without much fuss.
BTW, when I got back to the starting area...the local cops and CHP had just arrived, Lucky, they didn't great there a few minutes earlier. The CHP officer was nice and held the flashlight while we took off the slicks and put the street tires back on. He did ask why are there screws in the rim...yes, one of the guy's made a home made christmas tree.
I had a 340 Duster 4 speed at that time. The buddy was amazed how much more volant my built 4 speed car was compared to his 440 with a torqueflight.
Sorry for the story...
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
If there is any debate about having to use a stall converter, then your camshaft is too hot for towing and hauling. Drop down a notch in the camshaft selection. Hot cams and towing don't go together. Towing is hard on transmissions because of heating the fluid. Stall converters are hard on the fluid because they generate more heat. If you are going to tow or haul, stay away from a stall converter.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 200
Likes: 17
From: PNW-Western WA
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
If you have a hot cam and have to turn the idle speed up to keep it running. #1 your power brakes are going to be lousy and #2, you will need two feet on the brake to keep it from moving at a stoplight with the stock converter.
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Mountain Pass
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 1,156
From: Tolland, CT
Have you called the cam manufacturer and asked them what they recommend, ask for "tech support" when you call them.
See if this info helps.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/comp-cam...02/p/312383-V/
See if this info helps.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/comp-cam...02/p/312383-V/
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 200
Likes: 17
From: PNW-Western WA
Have you called the cam manufacturer and asked them what they recommend, ask for "tech support" when you call them.
See if this info helps.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/comp-cam...02/p/312383-V/
See if this info helps.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/comp-cam...02/p/312383-V/
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
I don't know al the ins and outs of camshafts. But the 1400rpm low end powerband and the recommendation of a higher stall converter was a red flag for me, the reason I said something. Is there that much of an advantage to that cam on a stock engine compared to a cam rated down to idle rpm?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
Higher stall converter and towing is a sure sign to kill a auto transmission because of HEAT!
Go stock cam or a RV cam and keep the stock converter or I think they make a RV one with a lower stall = less heat.
Dave ----
Go stock cam or a RV cam and keep the stock converter or I think they make a RV one with a lower stall = less heat.
Dave ----
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