I have been doing some reading here about steering and components pertaining to what could cause slop. My wheel has a little less than 1/4 turn of play. And this is a daily driver so I want as tight as possible. And safe of course.

I checked all the bushings and felt for slop. They all seemed very tight and since there was no cracking, one would think they had been replaced in the last 10 years.

Next up I read up would be the rag joint. I would not think it would be the issue, since I replaced when I did the exhaust manifolds. (I ended up lighting mine on fire with a torch not paying attention when heating seized bolts.) the fire was not much but with a component as such I decided it was best as replaced.

I also dug into reading here on rebuilding the steering box because that’s where it seems the most play is at. I have a friend turning the wheel and all the play is there, and not down under at the bushing points.
back to rebuilding: I have read that you cannot get the gears anymore except for possibly finding NOS and paying a premium. Also I have seen that the rebuilt boxes just have the bushings replaced and that’s all. If that is the case then it does not seem worth it to pay that much for just bushings

can someone shed more light pertaining to the rebuilding of the box. I know there is the preset screw but have been told not to touch it. Help is appreciated

 

Hello,
I had replaced tie rod ends, king pins, rag joint and drag link. The only part of the steering equation that wasn't replaced was the steering box. It made a "bumping" sound when I turned left. I was told of a good outfit that rebuilds steering boxes by another FTE member on here. They quoted me a price. I sent it to them. They did a jam up job. I was treated very well, as was my steering box.
Now my truck a '65 F100 2WD steers like it was new. The co. name: Blue Top Steering. Type it in your space bar and it will give you their contact info. It was not cheep, then as important as being able to control my truck is...the cost is worth every dollar. Hope this helps.

 

Brand seems familiar. Did they replace all the internals or just bushings, do you know?

 

Check out this thread, post #10 by Chad:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-my-65-a.html

 

It sounds like you have a manual box. Any reputable rebuild service should be able to rebuild it, but do some research to make sure they have a history of quality service. There's a saying that goes "buy once cry once". I believe it's best to suck it up and pay the price (or invest the time) to do it right the first time.

I have no personal experience with Blue Top, but the few people that have bothered to report on their services have been happy with their work. I sent mine to Red Head Gears because they have a reputation for being one of the few places that can rebuild the Bendix power steering box and make it last. They are not cheap but you get what you pay for. My truck tracks straight and hasn't leaked since I installed it over 2 years ago.

 

If I have ruled out all the other steering components, then the gearbox is probably a bit loose. That can be taken up by adjusting the sector shaft. I usually mark the current position of the adjustment screw, then loosen the lock nut for the screw. Sometimes the screw will turn when the lock nut is loosened, I use a screwdriver to keep the screw in it's current position as I back the lock nut, it only needs to move a turn or two for the screw to adjust. Next with a screwdriver I turn the screw 180 degrees clockwise from the marked position then set the lock nut just snug without fully tightening it. Then wiggle the steering wheel to see if the slack is less, if so I turn the wheel lock to lock then center the wheel and check for slack, this is likely to change and feel as it loosened up again. I Repeat the adjustment process until there is roughly 1/2" of play, but not less than that! I then tighten the lock nut and test drive.
The trick to remove as much slack in the box without creating a binding problem. The wheel should return to center after completing a turn without having to assist it to do so. There are plenty of YouTube videos documenting this procedure.

 

I got a receipt for what what was done, didna keep it, however. That was a couple yrs. ago. They replaced everything that was bad. Even made a part that was so far gone...that was the only way to repair my man. box. I am very happy with their work. Steering is like a new truck again. Was worth the expense. Hope this helps, Pete

 

I will try adjusting as said tonight and maybe tomorrow if not today.

if at the last resort I will just bite the bullet and go with Blue Top after hearing what you said. After all it is safety which should be a priority.


while this thread is on the topic of suspension, and I am currently waiting on parts to get my interior done, I was thinking about dropping the rear end like three inches to level it. Yes the truck is a long bed as well. Would removing the bottom two springs in the rear be okay or so I need a rear drop shackle as well. All parts can be had quick and cheap-ish from Amazon so that’s why I’m choosing now rather than later.

 

Drill the rivets out of the front spring mounts, flip mounts upside down, bolt back on. I think 2 of the bolt holes stay the same.
Cheap, and if you don't like the results, just put them back like they were...

 

Pinion angle shouldn’t be an issue with this should it? I wouldn’t think so with it being a long bed. That would be even less costly than ordering shackles

 

I don't think the angle would be a problem (I was changing axle housing, so rewelded my spring mounts), but the 4WD crowd has tapered shims that would fine tune it.
Whether you change trans. or not, you could also shim the driveshaft center bearing hanger up/down to see if it would help change a vibration.
Longer rear shackles get up in the bed floor/crossmember before you get much of a drop.

 

okay then I will just flip the front mount and see how I like it. Thank you! Finally something that has a chance of making the truck look better for a small cost of hardware!