Electric Choke Issue
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,639
Likes: 349
From: Albuquerque
Holley makes a device called as I recall a thermodyne. It's a thermister. You put it between the ground wire and say a manifold bolt. I doesn't allow full 12v untill there is some heat in the manifold. Hopefully they still make it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
[QUOTE=matthewq4b;19833614]Radiator size has no bearing on what temp the engine runs at or how long it takes to warm up.
Thank you, but that is not quite correct. The radiator has a direct affect on the engine temp, AND how long it takes to warm up. The thermostant opens when the coolant in block reaches a certain temp. But, if the coolant in the rad is cold, the temp of the engine drops way down. And if the rad. is too large, before the engine can warm up the new coolant and open the thermostant again, the hot coolant that was just cycled into the radiator is cooled way below running temp. So, depending on the size of the rad., it may take miles of driving to reach recommended operating temp, or the engine may not be able to reach and maintain operating temp.
I have an electrical (after market) temp gauge, and daily watch the temp slowly climb until the thermostant opens, and then the temp drops as new coolant enters the block. With the large rad. it takes quite a lot of driving for the temp to hover around the recommended temp. In the winter in So. Cal., (about 65--70*) I have to cover a good portion of the radiator if I want to stay around recommended temp.
Thank you, but that is not quite correct. The radiator has a direct affect on the engine temp, AND how long it takes to warm up. The thermostant opens when the coolant in block reaches a certain temp. But, if the coolant in the rad is cold, the temp of the engine drops way down. And if the rad. is too large, before the engine can warm up the new coolant and open the thermostant again, the hot coolant that was just cycled into the radiator is cooled way below running temp. So, depending on the size of the rad., it may take miles of driving to reach recommended operating temp, or the engine may not be able to reach and maintain operating temp.
I have an electrical (after market) temp gauge, and daily watch the temp slowly climb until the thermostant opens, and then the temp drops as new coolant enters the block. With the large rad. it takes quite a lot of driving for the temp to hover around the recommended temp. In the winter in So. Cal., (about 65--70*) I have to cover a good portion of the radiator if I want to stay around recommended temp.
Last edited by F-250 restorer; Apr 15, 2021 at 07:39 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
[QUOTE=F-250 restorer;19834363]
The size of the rad has no bearing if an engine can reach op temp, ambient temp does and that really only becomes an issue once you see sub-zero temps. So are you having these issues in Artic conditions like -30 and colder? If not then it's a thermostat issue. Like a failed stat or one that is too cold simple as that.
Radiator size has no bearing on what temp the engine runs at or how long it takes to warm up.
Thank you, but that is not quite correct. The radiator has a direct affect on the engine temp, AND how long it take to warm up. The thermostant opens when the coolant in block reaches a certain temp. But, if the coolant in the rad is cold, the temp engine temp drops way down. And if the rad. is too large, before the engine can warm up the new coolant and open the thermostant again, the hot coolant that was just cycled into the radiator is cooled way below running temp. So, depending on the size of the rad., it may take miles of driving to reach recommended operating temp, or the engine may not be able to reach and maintain operating temp.
Thank you, but that is not quite correct. The radiator has a direct affect on the engine temp, AND how long it take to warm up. The thermostant opens when the coolant in block reaches a certain temp. But, if the coolant in the rad is cold, the temp engine temp drops way down. And if the rad. is too large, before the engine can warm up the new coolant and open the thermostant again, the hot coolant that was just cycled into the radiator is cooled way below running temp. So, depending on the size of the rad., it may take miles of driving to reach recommended operating temp, or the engine may not be able to reach and maintain operating temp.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
[QUOTE=matthewq4b;19834375]
The size of the rad has no bearing if an engine can reach op temp, ambient temp does and that really only becomes an issue once you see sub-zero temps. So are you having these issues in Artic conditions like -30 and colder? If not then it's a thermostat issue. Like a failed stat or one that is too cold simple as that.
So, if the radiator is the correct size, and allows the engine to reach running temp, then the rad. size is of no bearing. And you don't see even the smallest contradiction in that statement?
The size of the rad has no bearing if an engine can reach op temp, ambient temp does and that really only becomes an issue once you see sub-zero temps. So are you having these issues in Artic conditions like -30 and colder? If not then it's a thermostat issue. Like a failed stat or one that is too cold simple as that.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
[QUOTE=F-250 restorer;19835323]
Oh brother there is no correct size of rad that allows an engine to reach operating temp. That is more dependent on T-stat temp..
First off the temp of the thermostat is when it starts to open. A 192° stat (the factory temp) will not start to open till it reaches 192° which is just below op temp. Thermostats are not open or closed they regulate. So no matter how many BTU's the rad is shedding the thermostat will not open till 192° keeping the engine near op temp. Furthermore, if you are in arctic conditions you can run a 202° stat that will keep the engine at op temp REGARDLESS of how many BTU's the rad dissipates. You obviously do not have a basic grasp on how the cooling system works or the thermodynamic theory behind them. Again if your engine is not getting up to temp you have t stat issue either too cold or failed.
Oh brother there is no correct size of rad that allows an engine to reach operating temp. That is more dependent on T-stat temp..
First off the temp of the thermostat is when it starts to open. A 192° stat (the factory temp) will not start to open till it reaches 192° which is just below op temp. Thermostats are not open or closed they regulate. So no matter how many BTU's the rad is shedding the thermostat will not open till 192° keeping the engine near op temp. Furthermore, if you are in arctic conditions you can run a 202° stat that will keep the engine at op temp REGARDLESS of how many BTU's the rad dissipates. You obviously do not have a basic grasp on how the cooling system works or the thermodynamic theory behind them. Again if your engine is not getting up to temp you have t stat issue either too cold or failed.
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