It still drew air from air cleaner base, the hose hooked up, went up to same place as the hot air system up under air cleaner.
Electric Choke Issue
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
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From: Near Los Angeles
Electric Choke Issue
Hey guys. I have a problem that's got me scratching my head. I've had several elec. choke carbs. It usually takes me two mornings to get it dialed in, and then I forget about it until the following summer or winter. But I bought a Summit racing 600 vs carb. I went out in the morning (about 40* in So.Cal) and hit the gas once, and dialed in the choke. But if I go into a market for 5 minutes and start the engine, it clicks into fast idle. So, I back off the choke dial. Also, rich or lean, it comes off the fast idle too soon. I drive half a mile after a cold start, and stop at a light and the engine slightly sputters.
Should I try using less than 12 volts so that the coil warms slower? Instructions say full 12v. I'm wondering if this may be caused by lack of heat, since the carb hangs off the side of the I6 engine, so it doesn't warm up as nicely as a v8 where it is nestled right in the middle of a nice warm engine. What do you think?
Should I try using less than 12 volts so that the coil warms slower? Instructions say full 12v. I'm wondering if this may be caused by lack of heat, since the carb hangs off the side of the I6 engine, so it doesn't warm up as nicely as a v8 where it is nestled right in the middle of a nice warm engine. What do you think?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,031
Likes: 891
From: East Central Ia
I had a problem with the Holley electric choke on a 429. When it would be 0 or below it would set the choke back on while driving down the highway. Changed over to the regular choke and hooked up the tube on exhaust manifold. Any possibility you could use one of those water heated spacer plates?.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
I had a problem with the Holley electric choke on a 429. When it would be 0 or below it would set the choke back on while driving down the highway. Changed over to the regular choke and hooked up the tube on exhaust manifold. Any possibility you could use one of those water heated spacer plates?.
I suppose I could switch to a manual choke.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 857
Likes: 63
From: Oxnard
F-250 Restorer,
Read and re-read your posts and can discern if you have the heat stack (tube) from the exhaust manifold going to the underside of the OEM air cleaner nozzle, if you do already ignore my reply. If you don't, without it might be contributing to your problem.
When I got my 77 F-150, it had a 4 barrel Holley carburetor, California Smog referee made me change it to OEM with the Motorcraft 2150 carburetor and OEM air cleaner. The riser coming off the exhaust manifold was missing and I could not source one. So I ended up fabricating one using short piece of exhaust pipe and a die grinder to get the angle for the piece of exhaust pipe to stand vertical. Then used a dremel with a cut off blade to cut holes on both side, run a hose clamp through and around the exhaust port. Bought a new piece of flexible hole at NAPA, measured the length between the underside of the air cleaner to the as built heat riser and it's solved the problem you're describing that I used to have.
If you're using an after-market air cleaner assembly, you might consider getting an OEM air cleaner, heat riser for use in the colder months. Just my thoughts to help you provoke yours.
Read and re-read your posts and can discern if you have the heat stack (tube) from the exhaust manifold going to the underside of the OEM air cleaner nozzle, if you do already ignore my reply. If you don't, without it might be contributing to your problem.
When I got my 77 F-150, it had a 4 barrel Holley carburetor, California Smog referee made me change it to OEM with the Motorcraft 2150 carburetor and OEM air cleaner. The riser coming off the exhaust manifold was missing and I could not source one. So I ended up fabricating one using short piece of exhaust pipe and a die grinder to get the angle for the piece of exhaust pipe to stand vertical. Then used a dremel with a cut off blade to cut holes on both side, run a hose clamp through and around the exhaust port. Bought a new piece of flexible hole at NAPA, measured the length between the underside of the air cleaner to the as built heat riser and it's solved the problem you're describing that I used to have.
If you're using an after-market air cleaner assembly, you might consider getting an OEM air cleaner, heat riser for use in the colder months. Just my thoughts to help you provoke yours.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 65
From: Eastern, Idaho
In the colder months I put my oe air cleaner on with exhaust heat stove connection and it works great. Connect the vacuum to the intake too for thermostatic diverter valve function. When I forget I notice. in the summer I disconnect the vacuum line and cap the fitting and run a open air cleaner lid in place of factory lid with factory snorkel still attached. That way still directs cooler fresh air from grill but allows free flow. I can hear secondaries kick in better this way too. The point is in Idaho I notice a difference in winter and no choke adjustments necessary when I swap cleaner lids. I am running a road demon 725 cfm on a mild build 460 in my 79 which is used for a weekend driver.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
Thanks for all the great feedback, guys. No doubt I have a couple of issues going on. My radiator is over-size for hauling/towing in the heat. But that means that around town in the winter, unloaded, it takes the system to warm up. The choke comes off and the carb is still cold and stumbles. I've tried reducing the voltage to the choke, to 7 or 8 volts iirc, but the choke would drop into fast idle while driving.
It looks like I will have to put together an oe air cleaner with the heat riser, etc. I'll look into how to do it with headers. I'm also looking at blocking half of the radiator from the front to help it reach running temp speed faster and stay around recommended temp.
I have an oem carb spacer with the coolant flowing around it. I suppose I could install it if need be.
It looks like I will have to put together an oe air cleaner with the heat riser, etc. I'll look into how to do it with headers. I'm also looking at blocking half of the radiator from the front to help it reach running temp speed faster and stay around recommended temp.
I have an oem carb spacer with the coolant flowing around it. I suppose I could install it if need be.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Near Los Angeles
During my move, I managed to check the voltage to the choke: 11.7 volts.
This Summit carb came with a thick 3/8" thick base gasket. It is recommended b/c the acc. pump is under the primary bowl and would interfere with the intake on a v8. However, I think that having that gasket insulates the carb from any warmth. Since the carb hangs off the side of the I6 engine, I think that heat is needed. I'm going to try using a standard 4v base gasket and see if that helps.
I'm also looking around for an oem air cleaner, and am trying to design a heat riser for my headers. Thanks, guys.
This Summit carb came with a thick 3/8" thick base gasket. It is recommended b/c the acc. pump is under the primary bowl and would interfere with the intake on a v8. However, I think that having that gasket insulates the carb from any warmth. Since the carb hangs off the side of the I6 engine, I think that heat is needed. I'm going to try using a standard 4v base gasket and see if that helps.
I'm also looking around for an oem air cleaner, and am trying to design a heat riser for my headers. Thanks, guys.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,193
Likes: 385
From: Near Los Angeles
I removed the thick (3/8") insulating base gasket. Time will tell if that is better mannered with a standard gasket that allows the carb to warm up faster. I noticed that there was gas covering the old gasket and in the bottom of the intake. Warmth is deffinately needed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
What temp thermostat are you running. Radiator size has no bearing on what temp the engine runs at or how long it takes to warm up. This sounds like a thermostat issue. There is absolutely no reason you should need a heated carb spacer you are not running in temps of -40° and below like we see here.
As for setting the choke housing. Set it so the choke flap is about half open at room temp. That will work for all seasons.
As for setting the choke housing. Set it so the choke flap is about half open at room temp. That will work for all seasons.