How does the TTB come apart?
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
How does the TTB come apart?
Working on the differentials. I know the left beam is the actual differential cover, so how do I get the case out? Do I have to disassemble the entire front end? I just did rad/piv bushings a couple weeks ago and that's a lot of work.
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
What a coincidence. I am searching on removing the TTB. I'm doing a cut and turn and lowering my 6 inch lift to a 4 inch. Here's what Dave at Threat Motorsports emailed me yesterday. A little trick for you when you go to separate the radius arms from the TTB's. In the inside of the TTB's where the bosses are that the top and bottom bolts connect to use a little heat on them. You can use something as simple as a propane torch on them. Ford used some crazy strong lock tight on them so by applying heat it makes it WAY easier to remove those bolts.
It looks to me that you jack up truck at frame in a safe spot to allow room to work on TTB. Support TTB. Compress coils and remove. Get knuckles and steering links removed. Break loose the four bolts that Dave mentions. Two on each side that you can now get to with coils and knuckles and axles out. Break loose radius arm bolts at pivot on frame. Oh yeah drain differential oil at start. Break loose bolts around differential housing.
I think then the TTB comes out. I may have missed something that some else might point out.I hope.
I've never done it before but I am doing it today.
It looks to me that you jack up truck at frame in a safe spot to allow room to work on TTB. Support TTB. Compress coils and remove. Get knuckles and steering links removed. Break loose the four bolts that Dave mentions. Two on each side that you can now get to with coils and knuckles and axles out. Break loose radius arm bolts at pivot on frame. Oh yeah drain differential oil at start. Break loose bolts around differential housing.
I think then the TTB comes out. I may have missed something that some else might point out.I hope.
I've never done it before but I am doing it today.
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
I think I should be able to leave the passenger side untouched, as long as there's enough room to pull the center slip yoke apart. But then I guess at least the driver side hub/rotor/caliper would have to come off at least.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
You have to pull the axle out on the driver's side. Take the front driveshaft out. Then loosen the boot on the pass side front axle slip joint. Then take all the bolts out of the pumpkin and drop it out. You will have to pull it back and work the stub axle out that is still in the pumpkin on the pass side.
Once you get it out, if you have a early frontend, there will be a 3 bolt retainer that holds the pass side stub axle in place. If you have a later axle you have to push in on the stub axle and take a c-clip out of the center of the axle to pull the stub axle.
Once you get it out, if you have a early frontend, there will be a 3 bolt retainer that holds the pass side stub axle in place. If you have a later axle you have to push in on the stub axle and take a c-clip out of the center of the axle to pull the stub axle.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
That pumpkin is very heavy so be careful. And getting it back in is not much fun. I had to pull the pass side axle also, I was by myself and could not lift the pumpkin in place and get the slip joint on the pass side started at the same time. So I took the pass side apart and pulled the axle out a little bit and put the pumpkin in first. Double check that slip joint in the pass side axle, make sure it's not wore out.
P.S. I can't remember if the axle splines on the pass side are keyed or not. If they are not, remember the u-joint rules and line them up before you slip it together.
P.S. I can't remember if the axle splines on the pass side are keyed or not. If they are not, remember the u-joint rules and line them up before you slip it together.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,875
Likes: 30
I actually have about a 5 inch piece of tubing in mine.
had it on the spout of some gear oil.
squeezed too hard I guess
had it on the spout of some gear oil.
squeezed too hard I guess
Trending Topics
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
I realize now that what your doing isn't what I thought. I see your removing the whole front end. Good Luck,
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Originally Posted by jj128
I realize now that what your doing isn't what I thought. I see your removing the whole front end. Good Luck,
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 817
Likes: 27
I pulled mine a few months ago to refresh the front end.
Axleshafts out - fair amount of work there. I don’t think the passenger side slip joint is keyed, but mark for orientation.
I found it impossible to pull the passenger side stub from the case while installed (I have an 80). One bolt is slap inaccessible and I saw no real way to pull the stub without fabbing up something to secure to the yoke.
I had a transmission jack and essentially backed the pumpkin out a bit, rolled it CW so the stub clears the beam, then pulled it out. It’s difficult to tell when it clears its fit to the beam so be prepared for it to drop a bit.
Reassembly is the reverse. You will have roll the pumpkin CCW after you clear the passenger side beam. I used some allthread to help pilot the pumpkin into the housing. The real key was chocking the pumpkin flange face to make it parallel to the beam face. You’ll still have to manhandle it into the beam as I ran out of clearance to move the jack forward.
I used a Lubelocker gasket and didn’t leak a drop. Unfortunately my new pinion seal riding on a Speedi-Sleeve is leaking. Always something...
Axleshafts out - fair amount of work there. I don’t think the passenger side slip joint is keyed, but mark for orientation.
I found it impossible to pull the passenger side stub from the case while installed (I have an 80). One bolt is slap inaccessible and I saw no real way to pull the stub without fabbing up something to secure to the yoke.
I had a transmission jack and essentially backed the pumpkin out a bit, rolled it CW so the stub clears the beam, then pulled it out. It’s difficult to tell when it clears its fit to the beam so be prepared for it to drop a bit.
Reassembly is the reverse. You will have roll the pumpkin CCW after you clear the passenger side beam. I used some allthread to help pilot the pumpkin into the housing. The real key was chocking the pumpkin flange face to make it parallel to the beam face. You’ll still have to manhandle it into the beam as I ran out of clearance to move the jack forward.
I used a Lubelocker gasket and didn’t leak a drop. Unfortunately my new pinion seal riding on a Speedi-Sleeve is leaking. Always something...
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
I pulled mine a few months ago to refresh the front end.
Axleshafts out - fair amount of work there. I don’t think the passenger side slip joint is keyed, but mark for orientation.
I found it impossible to pull the passenger side stub from the case while installed (I have an 80). One bolt is slap inaccessible and I saw no real way to pull the stub without fabbing up something to secure to the yoke.
I had a transmission jack and essentially backed the pumpkin out a bit, rolled it CW so the stub clears the beam, then pulled it out. It’s difficult to tell when it clears its fit to the beam so be prepared for it to drop a bit.
Reassembly is the reverse. You will have roll the pumpkin CCW after you clear the passenger side beam. I used some allthread to help pilot the pumpkin into the housing. The real key was chocking the pumpkin flange face to make it parallel to the beam face. You’ll still have to manhandle it into the beam as I ran out of clearance to move the jack forward.
I used a Lubelocker gasket and didn’t leak a drop. Unfortunately my new pinion seal riding on a Speedi-Sleeve is leaking. Always something...
Axleshafts out - fair amount of work there. I don’t think the passenger side slip joint is keyed, but mark for orientation.
I found it impossible to pull the passenger side stub from the case while installed (I have an 80). One bolt is slap inaccessible and I saw no real way to pull the stub without fabbing up something to secure to the yoke.
I had a transmission jack and essentially backed the pumpkin out a bit, rolled it CW so the stub clears the beam, then pulled it out. It’s difficult to tell when it clears its fit to the beam so be prepared for it to drop a bit.
Reassembly is the reverse. You will have roll the pumpkin CCW after you clear the passenger side beam. I used some allthread to help pilot the pumpkin into the housing. The real key was chocking the pumpkin flange face to make it parallel to the beam face. You’ll still have to manhandle it into the beam as I ran out of clearance to move the jack forward.
I used a Lubelocker gasket and didn’t leak a drop. Unfortunately my new pinion seal riding on a Speedi-Sleeve is leaking. Always something...
It was a long time ago, I remember having to shovel the snow out on each side of the truck to work on it, we had one of those big snows back in I think 1996, and I knew the slip joint on the pass side axle had a lot of wear in it, well I got stuck and it stripped it out. I had to buy a new yoke and a new pass side axle and then tear it all out to replace it.
When I pulled the pumpkin that is when I found out it had a limited slip clutch pack in it. It was dry and a little rusted when I took it apart, I put it back together and put oil in it. But I think those clutches must have been rusted fast, because that thing would really go in the snow, but you could not turn a corner for anything.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 817
Likes: 27
I had an 80 also, and although I got the 3 little bolts out, I too could not get the stub axle to budge. Once I pulled the whole pumpkin and it was laying on the ground I was able to pull it right out.
It was a long time ago, I remember having to shovel the snow out on each side of the truck to work on it, we had one of those big snows back in I think 1996, and I knew the slip joint on the pass side axle had a lot of wear in it, well I got stuck and it stripped it out. I had to buy a new yoke and a new pass side axle and then tear it all out to replace it.
When I pulled the pumpkin that is when I found out it had a limited slip clutch pack in it. It was dry and a little rusted when I took it apart, I put it back together and put oil in it. But I think those clutches must have been rusted fast, because that thing would really go in the snow, but you could not turn a corner for anything.
It was a long time ago, I remember having to shovel the snow out on each side of the truck to work on it, we had one of those big snows back in I think 1996, and I knew the slip joint on the pass side axle had a lot of wear in it, well I got stuck and it stripped it out. I had to buy a new yoke and a new pass side axle and then tear it all out to replace it.
When I pulled the pumpkin that is when I found out it had a limited slip clutch pack in it. It was dry and a little rusted when I took it apart, I put it back together and put oil in it. But I think those clutches must have been rusted fast, because that thing would really go in the snow, but you could not turn a corner for anything.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
frankosd
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
14
Mar 17, 2022 10:54 AM
GreatNorthWoods
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
Jun 20, 2003 05:55 PM
cudaowner
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
2
Nov 17, 2002 08:58 PM