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I have been following some of the 7.3L builds, and it appears they can indeed make significant power. Have been wondering how far out you can take a 7.3L so far no one is talking about increasing displacement. Noticed that Brian Wolfe kind of ducked the question on REVan Evan's videos. Anyone know the story? I figure the aftermarket has to be working on pistons by now.
I thought I heard in one of the videos Brian said something like the block should be able to go 1 bore, maybe 30 thousand.
I didn't catch that, but I have not watched all the videos all the way through. I do remember Brian saying something about a small stroke increase, maybe getting to 470 cubic inches. The cut block looks like you might get .030' out of it.
The variance in cylinder wall thickness reminds me of the 351 Cleveland blocks. Not a good reminder.
I remember seeing in a video, and I could swear it was one with Brian Wolfe, where they said they'd be able to bore one .030 over comfortably but they'd be scared to do any more than that even on a "mild" engine. Not sure how they define a "mild" engine since the thing is already over 400 horsepower stock. I guess if nothing else, in 20 years when these things are littering the junkyards, at least you can count on being able to clean the block up once to put in your hot rod.
The variance in cylinder wall thickness reminds me of the 351 Cleveland blocks. Not a good reminder......
And 351M's, and 400's..... Have to admit I am a little envious of the GM 6.6L iron block. Cylinder wall thickness is the same as an LSX block, you can go .060" blown and .120" naturally aspirated. Down side is the block weighs 245 lbs. bare, I'll bet that's heavier than the Ford 7.3L
Bore is larger then stroke .. I would think a stroke increase would be easier .. More money though ..
Without a block deck it might be a real treat to bore .. Need to machine a fixture to replace the head
and stabilize the top of the cylinder castings .. Or risk egg shaped or tapered bores ..
Bore is larger then stroke .. I would think a stroke increase would be easier .. More money though ..
Without a block deck it might be a real treat to bore .. Need to machine a fixture to replace the head
and stabilize the top of the cylinder castings .. Or risk egg shaped or tapered bores ..
You are right that a stroke increase would probably be easier, but the 7.3L might take a small bore increase.. The pictured block has been cut an inch or so down from the deck, so you are not looking at the actual deck. It's not 100% open.
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