78 Bronco 460 swap..any tips?
#1
78 Bronco 460 swap..any tips?
Going to be swapping in a 460 i built for the low mile dog of a 351M .. Is there a write on on the swap? I have the Trans Dapt Motor Mounts and no exhaust yet cant find a Y pipe so thinking cast manifolds are not going to be used I prefer them cause they rarely leak in my experience. looking for tips wont be doing this till spring.
#2
Join Date: Jan 2008
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There are many write ups on this. Main thing to remember is that your torque converter is fully seated prior to installing engine.
you will need to pull the hood off. Most people can’t align the hood when it goes back on, tilting the hood hinge toward the rear will lower the hood placement. Tilting the hinge foreword will raise the hood’s alignment. You may need to re-adjust your hood half a dozen times in small increments to get it perfect. I have always gotten a hood to line up perfectly.
just take the four bolts at the top of the hinge off and leave the hinges bolted to the inner fender to avoid this step.
go with factory exhaust manifolds or fender well exit headers to avoid starter overheat.
open element air filters get dirty and load up the engine with hot air. Go with a factory 460/390 air filter housing with the snorkel off to one side and route the intake to the front core support for your cold-air intake like factory. You can install a K&N filter in there too.
Use non-synthetic oil. Your new or old big block seals will leak.
you will need a rear sump oil pan. There is a Ford 460 rear sump pan that will work great.
you will need a 460 flywheel for Auto. Get a billet one rated for more power.
460 vans have the better p/s pump and brackets. If not using a serpentine system which I would like to install from now on.
make sure your timing is not 180degrees off before you crank the engine.
shim your starter if you hear something wrong with it’s engagement.
you will need to pull the hood off. Most people can’t align the hood when it goes back on, tilting the hood hinge toward the rear will lower the hood placement. Tilting the hinge foreword will raise the hood’s alignment. You may need to re-adjust your hood half a dozen times in small increments to get it perfect. I have always gotten a hood to line up perfectly.
just take the four bolts at the top of the hinge off and leave the hinges bolted to the inner fender to avoid this step.
go with factory exhaust manifolds or fender well exit headers to avoid starter overheat.
open element air filters get dirty and load up the engine with hot air. Go with a factory 460/390 air filter housing with the snorkel off to one side and route the intake to the front core support for your cold-air intake like factory. You can install a K&N filter in there too.
Use non-synthetic oil. Your new or old big block seals will leak.
you will need a rear sump oil pan. There is a Ford 460 rear sump pan that will work great.
you will need a 460 flywheel for Auto. Get a billet one rated for more power.
460 vans have the better p/s pump and brackets. If not using a serpentine system which I would like to install from now on.
make sure your timing is not 180degrees off before you crank the engine.
shim your starter if you hear something wrong with it’s engagement.
#3
Go here https://www.projectbronco.com/ and then click on this. https://www.projectbronco.com/Techni...ical_index.htm
And then see https://www.projectbronco.com/Techni...alling_460.htm
And then see https://www.projectbronco.com/Techni...alling_460.htm
#5
#6
If you look up one of my threads when I put my 460 into my 77 shortbox4x4 you can follow what I did.
The easiest thing to do.....get a complete 460 out of a truck. In my case my donor truck was a 77 F350. That gives you all the brackets/pulleys correct exhaust manifolds etc....then the only thing you really have to do is the oil pan conversion. I used the Ford racing oil pan kit for the rear sump. Everything bolted in!
When I did the oil pan conversion I put a fresh oil pump in it (my engine had 99k miles on it) a fresh double roller timing chain as well. I had it a part for the pan. So made life easy.
I only run Brad Penn racing oil in the flat tappet cam motors. Semi synthetic. I’ve had no problems with the seals etc...
The easiest thing to do.....get a complete 460 out of a truck. In my case my donor truck was a 77 F350. That gives you all the brackets/pulleys correct exhaust manifolds etc....then the only thing you really have to do is the oil pan conversion. I used the Ford racing oil pan kit for the rear sump. Everything bolted in!
When I did the oil pan conversion I put a fresh oil pump in it (my engine had 99k miles on it) a fresh double roller timing chain as well. I had it a part for the pan. So made life easy.
I only run Brad Penn racing oil in the flat tappet cam motors. Semi synthetic. I’ve had no problems with the seals etc...
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