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I've always camped with no power. My trip to West Virginia in October got me thinking, cause I neglected to think about how it's 2 USDA Growth Zones down from where I live, and it was really cold at night. Might do a cubie-heater next time. But as to my question - do campsites that have power put their boxes all on the same side? Or do they vary depending on area and owner?
Backng into a camp, are the boxes all on the drivers' side, or passengers' side?
I ask this, because I've seen folks install a port in their shell - and figured it would be awkward if it was "on the wrong side" from the power-box. I have a slider-window against the cab, and could run a drop-cord through that hatch - but if I was worried about bugs at night, the port sounded good to keep the hatches closed.
Another project I was thinking was good, was wallpapering inside the shell with Reflectex - but what kind of adhesive would I use that would work inside a fiberglass shell? What's gonna stick and not come off? And can I lay fabric over the Reflectex?
Services (water, power, sewer) can be on either side. A "port" on your rig would be a good idea. Carry a power cord long enough to reach from side to side.
...Backng into a camp, are the boxes all on the drivers' side, or passengers' side?
Hmmm. We’ve owned three campers, and rented three others. All had their service connections on the (US) driver’s side.
All campgrounds with electric service we’ve visited (usually state parks) except one had the power pedestal on the driver’s side. The one exception’s PP was behind the camper.
Those same campgrounds with water on-site had the faucet on the driver’s side. However, one site had quite a separation between the PP and water faucet.
We rarely get a site with a sewer or cable TV hookup. The few we’ve had were also on the driver’s side.
In the dozens of campsites we've stayed at the electric/water/sewer hookups were all on the drivers side, with only a few exceptions of them being at the rear of the site.
I would try velcro with the soft side on the shell held on by commercial grade double sided tape. Have not tried putting material on reflectix, I'm sure it could be done, not sure how it would look.
I don't go to many campgrounds but the ones I have been in all had the hookups on the driver side, which in my experience, is the same side the manufacturers place the connections.
I'd say, 95% are on Drivers side. It will make better sense as to keep the cord away from Passenger side, that generally face the campsite as well. Whatever works best for your conditions, and I recommend a solid 20A connection as well, to cover a coffee maker or microwave.
I've used Reflectix only to cover windows. It's somewhat effective. Last October I switched to using rigid foam insulation panels. They're thicker and stay in place better. Given that it got down to -10° F (when we checked in the morning) I think the rigid foam did a lot better.
Reflectix does little to nothing to insulate. It is useful to cover windows since it's cheap and light. I bought giant black table cloths and used spray adhesive to cover both sides of the reflectix. My van was stealthy from the outside and pitch black on the inside. I could develop pictures in there.
Thank you, Folks, for such good replies! It's good to know port-placement, in case I decide to drill a hole in my shell.
Mine is one of those with the higher back-third, so the ceiling is not just straight-shot to adhere foam-board to - and I don't know if I'm good enough to cut pieces that bevel just right to get that slope down to the forward 2/3rds. Would contact cement work on plain fiberglass? What the heck do they use when I see those ones with carpeted liner overhead? And how much insulation value does that foam-backed carpet do? I was looking at that, too, because it's flexable and would do that ceiling-slope better.
OlWolf: Just my opinion, but I agree that rigid foam is probably better bang for your buck for keeping out cold. I'm sure reflectix does something. But probably better at bouncing back heat from the sun then keeping out cold.
I don't think beveling the foam board would be tough. And if you end up with gaps, spray can foam would fill them.
Construction adhesive, like PL Premium, would do the trick. I glued down 2x4's on the flat to a concrete floor, saying "God help the poor bas***d that has to remove those"...... well......1.5 years later, that was me. I bent a 4' pry bar pulling them up. So yeah, it's good stuff......
"Van life" hipsters seem to use the foam board extensively for their builds. Opinion seems to vary on whether to glue the foam right to the surface or use thin fir out strips to maintain an air gap for allowing any moisture to dry. But I don't know one way or the other myself.
No idea about contact cement and foam. That would seem the best for sticking carpet to foam as it sticks right away to walls and overhead.
Peel and stick carpet tiles, maybe? (That's just an "as typing" brain fart....)
Yeah, the acetone eats foam. Has to be adhesive without acetone.
I've looked up videos of insulating a shell, but the guy's workng with aluminum. I would think adhesive for aluminum would be different for fiberglass. I don't want to go all the way to the city to buy an adhesive that fails on fiberglass once I get it home.
Wish there were more folks that have done this - to explain what they used and hownthey went about it.
How do they do the insides of those with carpeted interiors? What do they use, how good does it buffer heat and cold, and how do they work the materials?
OlWolf: Just my opinion, but I agree that rigid foam is probably better bang for your buck for keeping out cold. I'm sure reflectix does something. But probably better at bouncing back heat from the sun then keeping out cold.
I don't think beveling the foam board would be tough. And if you end up with gaps, spray can foam would fill them.
Construction adhesive, like PL Premium, would do the trick. I glued down 2x4's on the flat to a concrete floor, saying "God help the poor bas***d that has to remove those"...... well......1.5 years later, that was me. I bent a 4' pry bar pulling them up. So yeah, it's good stuff......
"Van life" hipsters seem to use the foam board extensively for their builds. Opinion seems to vary on whether to glue the foam right to the surface or use thin fir out strips to maintain an air gap for allowing any moisture to dry. But I don't know one way or the other myself.
No idea about contact cement and foam. That would seem the best for sticking carpet to foam as it sticks right away to walls and overhead.
Peel and stick carpet tiles, maybe? (That's just an "as typing" brain fart....)
Thanks for the laff! Yeah, I have a nightmare Great-stuff story, too! Happened when the Stuff first came out! Thought I'd use it on a project on a Sunday before having to go to work on Monday - accidently got Stuff on my hands, and the kerosene I had around didn't get it off! Small town, so hardware store was closed! Couldn't TOUCH anything cause of sticky gloopy hands - no doorknobs, no bathroom, no drinks, not even a smoke! I almost went insane - used papertowels that stuck to the goop, to drive to the gas station, thinking maybe some gas would get it off! Ended up with paper towels glued to my hands till the next day, and had to call in to tell work I couldn't come in. Hadta hit that hardware store for mineral spirits! I just didn't have any on my shed shelves! I keep 3 or 4 different solvents on that shelf now! 😂
But, I like this place to toss out ideas - learn from others' experiences - and get some sounding-board effect. The self-stick carpet tiles - I thought were good until I started wondering if their sticky-back would hold upside down in the summer.
Need more ideas!
Don't waste your money trying to insulate your mobile abode. Insulation only works when fully 100% sealed. Any little air gap or uninsulated area will make the insulation useless. Insulation works by trapping air.
It's sad watching van lifers spend thousands on insulation. The insulation just creates more issues too, such as condensation. Breathing and cooking in a small area creates mega condensation. Insulation will trap it all and create mold and rust.
I've spent countless hours researching tiny home and van life builds and even lived in my minivan for a couple months. My conclusion is insulate the floor since you will contact it barefoot. Think floating floor on 1" or 2" foam board.
No insulation anywhere else. Electric heaters or chinese diesel heaters will heat up a small space very quickly. Use two sleeping bags at night and wear socks.
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