Weird Sound. Help!
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From: Warren, MI
Weird Sound. Help!
Well i did a oil change and i used higher viscosity oil than usual and use Lucas Oil stablizer and now i have a weird sound.
I know what a ping sounds like. Its where you buy cheap cheap gas and when at low RPM or trying to accerlate you can hear little tapping sounds.
Now this might be a "Knock" but what is a knock?
Im not saying it is, what im asking is what this sound COULD be.
Thanks guys,
Adam
I know what a ping sounds like. Its where you buy cheap cheap gas and when at low RPM or trying to accerlate you can hear little tapping sounds.
Now this might be a "Knock" but what is a knock?
Im not saying it is, what im asking is what this sound COULD be.
Thanks guys,
Adam
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From: Warren, MI
Yeah its not that.
Its a heavy clunking sound. Buts its really fast. (happens a lot so its hard to make out if its a constant sound or just now and then)
It sounds like something is bouncing back and forth inside.
Adam
Its a heavy clunking sound. Buts its really fast. (happens a lot so its hard to make out if its a constant sound or just now and then)
It sounds like something is bouncing back and forth inside.
Adam
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When does this occur at idle when hot/cold, up hills, etc. ? Should it happen at idle and or all the time then you can unhook a plug wire one by one and if it stops you have found the cylinder if it is a bearing it will stop completely if it has something to do with a rod then it will get quieter. Let us know
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From: Still under the hood in O
Actually, if it stops more than likely it's a wrist pin. If it gets louder it's a bearing.
Knowing if it does it hot/cold or gets worse/better and at what RPM's is very important in diagnosing a knock.
Knowing if it does it hot/cold or gets worse/better and at what RPM's is very important in diagnosing a knock.
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Get a broomstick and put it against the block while running and put the other end against your ear. If it's an engine knock you can pinpoint it that way.
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From: Warren, MI
If it gets louder it's a bearing
No it doesnt, seems to stay the same/ go away over 1000.
JW:
Well, no, i havent tired pulling the boots off 1 by 1.
Im going to look into it tomorrow. I worked all day today and im off at 4:00pm tomorrow, so hopefuly ill get a little time of light.
But if i cant pin point it, im going to do a compression test.
Can any post a link to a "how to" on broncos/5.0's plz.
I assume (as ive read on other engines)
1. unplug all injectors
2. pull all plugs and makes sure to mark all wires and plugs to go back togather (but ill just replace plugs)
3. Attach compression gauge to #1 (1-8)
4. Crank 3 or 4 times.
5. Check and write down.
6. goto step 3
Adam
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From: Still under the hood in O
Actually I meant when you pull the plug wire does it get louder.
It goes away with higher RPM? Does it make any difference if it is cold or hot?
I don't think a compression check is needed at this point, unless it's also running poorly.
Could it possibly be a lifter tap?
You can hook up a timing light to any wire while it is running and see if the knock apears to be as fast or slower than the light flashing. This will tell you if it is valvetrain related or bottom end (the valvetrain spins twice as fast as the bottom end).
It goes away with higher RPM? Does it make any difference if it is cold or hot?
I don't think a compression check is needed at this point, unless it's also running poorly.
Could it possibly be a lifter tap?
You can hook up a timing light to any wire while it is running and see if the knock apears to be as fast or slower than the light flashing. This will tell you if it is valvetrain related or bottom end (the valvetrain spins twice as fast as the bottom end).
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From: Warren, MI
It could POSSIBLY be ligter tap, but i hope not.
I gotta buy a timing light SOON!
I wanna also check my timing, and now need to check out this problem.
Thanks guys, ill update you tomorrow.
Adam
Ohh also, no its running GREAT! besides for the common blow by
. No probs
I gotta buy a timing light SOON!
I wanna also check my timing, and now need to check out this problem.
Thanks guys, ill update you tomorrow.
Adam
Ohh also, no its running GREAT! besides for the common blow by
. No probs
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From: Warren, MI
Also I asked this question here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=156980
Can anyone explain to me how "blow by" and buring oil is different? (as in where is the oil "blowing by" and not going into the chamber?)
Thanks guys,
Adam
Can anyone explain to me how "blow by" and buring oil is different? (as in where is the oil "blowing by" and not going into the chamber?)
Thanks guys,
Adam
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I reread your initial post and thought change your oil back to a 10w-30 and see what happens. I know for a fact that going from 5w-30 to 10w-30 will increase the oil pressure so I would imagine a different oil might cause the weakest link to be more pronounced. I am suspecting a lifter, but I would change the oil just to see what happens, your probably fine. What higher viscosity oil brand and weight did you use? later
Blow by is when the pressure from the combustion chamber leaks past the rings causing excess pressure in the crank case. So it means you have worn rings
burning oil is when the valve seal and guides are worn and the oil leaks down into the combustion chamber and burns.
Blow by is when the pressure from the combustion chamber leaks past the rings causing excess pressure in the crank case. So it means you have worn rings
burning oil is when the valve seal and guides are worn and the oil leaks down into the combustion chamber and burns.
Last edited by jwtaylor; Oct 28, 2003 at 07:17 AM.
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From: Warren, MI
Ok thanks JW, thats EXACTLY what i wanted to know.
I went from Mobil 1 10w30 to Mobil 1 15-50. I read some people on this forum said they use thicker oil with a older engine. So i figure i would give it a try. But i guess ill go back to 10-30.
Adam
I went from Mobil 1 10w30 to Mobil 1 15-50. I read some people on this forum said they use thicker oil with a older engine. So i figure i would give it a try. But i guess ill go back to 10-30.
Adam
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