Replacing Intake Manifold
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 3
Replacing Intake Manifold
I'm losing Coolant & It appears to be the Passenger Side Rear of the motor. I originally thought it was oil. I put some bars leak in and seems to have slowed, But plan on pulling the manifold in the spring. I have a New Ford Manifold, Water Pump,Gaskets, Plugs, Coil Boots. Heater Hoses. Should I get new injectors or just seals? I also have a Time Sert kit and was thinking of doing the inserts while it was apart. Any Other Ideas?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 453
Likes: 2
From: Bitterroots of Montana
How many miles on the engine/manifold?
I just replaced my intake due to a lean condition when temps were below 40, and did not need to do any seals/serts/pumps, just the manifold and the intake gaskets, but I only have about 135k and only just started to get a little coolant leak.
I just replaced my intake due to a lean condition when temps were below 40, and did not need to do any seals/serts/pumps, just the manifold and the intake gaskets, but I only have about 135k and only just started to get a little coolant leak.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 453
Likes: 2
From: Bitterroots of Montana
Boy, with such low miles, I don't think I would do more than the coil boots, plugs, and maybe the injector seals (since they are cheap and easy to install).
Unless, of course, you get in there and find other issues.
If you performed routine maintenance since new, including coolant flushes, the water pump should be good. However, since you already have one on hand.... They really aren't all that difficult to replace in general.
Even at 130k miles, my engine was pretty clean, other than a mouse house under the manifold. No oil leaks, and the coolant leak I found was just a tiny weep right at the cross over pipe where the common issue with the plastic manifold starts to disintegrate.
Oh, one thing I would recommend; change out the PCV rubber connectors, especially those that connect to the back of the manifold and the upper intake. Also, I changed all my rubber vacuum connectors, even the one over behind the battery. They all degrade and mine were probably leaking a bit.
Unless, of course, you get in there and find other issues.
If you performed routine maintenance since new, including coolant flushes, the water pump should be good. However, since you already have one on hand.... They really aren't all that difficult to replace in general.
Even at 130k miles, my engine was pretty clean, other than a mouse house under the manifold. No oil leaks, and the coolant leak I found was just a tiny weep right at the cross over pipe where the common issue with the plastic manifold starts to disintegrate.
Oh, one thing I would recommend; change out the PCV rubber connectors, especially those that connect to the back of the manifold and the upper intake. Also, I changed all my rubber vacuum connectors, even the one over behind the battery. They all degrade and mine were probably leaking a bit.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 103
From: North Idaho
Just a couple of comments - a small leak at the crossover tube? A piece of cloth tied around the tube at the point of the leak can prevent the coolant from getting into the spark plug well and causing ignition issues, at least for a while. Change your coolant - just because it's able to cool doesn't mean it's not breaking down and causing damage to aluminum heads and water pump.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Rennisreaper
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Oct 4, 2017 10:52 PM
DJdemon6696
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
May 5, 2007 06:11 PM
