6.9 leaking antifreeze
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Freshman User
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From: Middletown CT
6.9 leaking antifreeze
can someone fill me in on the 6.9 weeping problem? I have antifreeze dripping from the rear of the block on both sides, but not from the visible freeze plugs. When I drive the intake gets covered with antifreeze,but I can't find where it's coming from. It would seem that this liquid would be the culprit, but after totally drying the intake and running the motor, I still get the bottom dripping. If this is, in fact, the 6.9 cracked block weeping problem, has anyone had any success with sealants of any kind?
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it would be driping from behind the starter usually if it was the classic cracked block, that would not make the intake manifold wet. try this, get an old radiator cap or a new one, whichever, and take the little button thingy off the bottom of, rip it off with some pliers or something, and put it on there and see if that helps slow the leak. it may be leaking from the radiator somewhere and the fan is blowing it all over the motor and getting everything wet. or it may be leaking from the water pump, but since you say it leaks from the back. does it only leak when hot, or will it drip drip when its sitting there cold??? try the radiator cap thing and put some stuff called aluma-seal in it. put like 2 bottles. the freeze plugs are stainless steel on these trucks. they shouldn't ever rust or leak. if it leaks when cold, then see where it drips from. the front middle or the back side, or where. need a little more info to make sure i am telling you the right thing to do. how far to the rear of the block??
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Freshman User
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From: Middletown CT
I can only see it drip from the bottom rear corner of the block on the drivers side and from the other at the starter, like you said. I took the inspection cover off and nothing drips from the center. I find it hard to believe that I developed two cracks simultaniously.The heads appear to be staying dry. The antifreeze on the intake only happens while driving and isn't a fan blown radiator thing. I had just topped off the radiator the other day just before this all happened. Another thing--The engine temp light comes on right away and stays on. All this happened at once.
Last edited by snake321; Nov 5, 2004 at 11:33 PM.
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
try to get hold of a radiator pressure tester. Put about 12 psi in the radiator and begin looking for the leak. You may have a spot in the intake gasket that has blown out or the upper radiator hose is leaking and the fan is taking it all over the engine. OR --- a head gasket is out and pressurizing the radiator. Remove the oil fill cap and see there is moisture on it, looks like mayonaise. OR --- Let it sit for a day and drain just a little oil from the pan and see if you are getting coolant in the oil pan.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Middletown CT
I just got gunk block seal, but I also have the bars. This morning, I looked at the motor and the intake was covered in antifreeze again. Bizarre...
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: newfoundland canada
Check all hoses amd their connections(including the heater hoses),sure sounds like the fan is blowing it over the engine.If it was a lower rear leak,how does it get on top of the engine?Maybe the top seam on the rad?
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Elder User
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From: newfoundland canada
Is it burning with the exhaust,if it is it will have a sweet smell to the exhaust.Starting to sound like a cracked cyl head.You will need to pressure test the system and watch for coolant running.Be carefull not to fill a cylinder with coolant or it will hydrolock.It would be a good idea to pull the glo plugs and turn engine over with a breaker bar on the crank to push any trapped water that might end up in a cyl from the pressure test.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Middletown CT
had antifreeze puddled up in the glow plug hole between #1 & 3 cylinders. I put the pressure tester on the radiator and pumped her up to 12 lbs.,ran the motor, and the puddle got higher. Has got to be the intake gasket. There's a little hole for drainage into the valley area which would explain that big puddle. I still have the 2 drips on the bottom and the overheat light, but I'll go for the intake gasket today. I know I'm gonna be ****ed if I only do the intake(at 50bucks)and I gotta pull the heads off later. I'll let you know how the gasket looked....
Last edited by snake321; Nov 6, 2004 at 01:24 PM.
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Freshman User
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From: Middletown CT
I'm having a hard time separating the injector pump from the housing. Besides that, the intake is ready to come out. I just ordered a magnaflux kit in case I have to take the heads off. Those freeze plugs would be great if it's them..
Last edited by snake321; Nov 8, 2004 at 08:21 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: newfoundland canada
Pump lines and 3 bolts should be all you need to remove,some remove the lines from the injectors only,when i done it i also removed them from the pump.Keep them lines CLEAN,any dirt that gets in them will spell big trouble.The pump needs to be pulled back towards the fire wall enough to pull the pin out of the timing gear,about 1/2 inch or so.You may need to give it a SLIGHT rap with a rubber hammer or equivelent,rember light hitting.