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Recently picked up a 2006 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab LB 4WD , got a steal from my cousin , needs a ton of work but i only paid $2500 , 165k miles.
Body work: see photos dont even ask about this cartoon , the previous owner had this on and im going to take it off immediately
Interior:
New carpet
Full detail
New seat covers (to cover the some of the ripped leather - will probably get better leather ones later)
Wheels/Tires
- 4x LT275/70R18 125/122R E MICHELIN DEFENDER LTX M/S
- 18X8 OEM wheels (text me if you have for sale)
Engine: (i created another thread to get help on this list and create a solid list of MUST HAVE items and this is what we came up with for the stage1 bulletproof and all the other odds and ends) - FORD ORIGINAL ENGINE OIL COOLER 6.0 Diesel Kit-3C3Z-6A642-CA
- Bulletproofdiesel EGR Cooler + Appropriate Gasket kit
- Ford 4C3Z-9B246-F Fitting Update Kit
- 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade,Ford Blue Spring Kit 6.0 Powerstroke Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
- Stant 10238 Radiator Cap - 16 PSI
- OEM Ford / Motorcraft Set of 8PC ZD-13 4C3Z-12A342-AA Diesel Glow Plugs 04 - 10 Ford 6.0L + Harness
- Mishimoto MMCFK-F2D-03BL Coolant Filter Kit + Rotella ELC Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrate ( 2 concentrated gallons)
- Genuine Ford 6E7Z-9A332-B Fuel Supply Tube (STANPIPE + DUMMY)
-Schaeffer's #700 SynShield Durability Advantage 15W-40 4 gallons + Motorcraft FL2016 Oil Filter
- Motorcraft FD-4616 Fuel Filter
- Motorcraft FA1778 Air Filter - Motorcraft Injector Control Pressure Sensor (ICP) | 6.0L Ford Powerstroke
- New OEM Ford Motorcraft CM5126 Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator Free
- Genuine Ford Oil Pressure Sending Unit F81Z-9278-AA
SUSPENSION :
So heres where i need some more help , but im going to create another thread now to ask about this list ....
pls let me know if anything you're seeing sticks out and you think i can improve somewhere
Last edited by moonlitsouls; Jan 20, 2021 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: wrong title
OK, you asked.............
Spend your time, money and resources on making it "mechanically dependable"........... Forget the paint, body dings, interior, etc........... Focus on the "core" components that get that truck from Point "A" to Point "B"..... Doubtful a cop is going to pull you over because it just looks like a truck a poor working class guy would be driving..... Doubtful anyone would steal it...
Dependability:
New Heavy Duty (HD) Batteries,
Good Heavy Duty starter
Fuel conditioner additive.
What is the "Mission" of the truck ? Grocery store run or pulling a gooseneck with 30K# load ?
Look fine, I could barely see that little ding on the bed, Ford paint loves to shine, you can wash it up and add some wax and it will look like a totally different truck, if you use some mild compound and a buffer it will shine 10' deep.
Look fine, I could barely see that little ding on the bed, Ford paint loves to shine, you can wash it up and add some wax and it will look like a totally different truck, if you use some mild compound and a buffer it will shine 10' deep.
you think? the body looked pretty bad to me. but like others have said, i really need to focus on the mechanical stuff first
OK, you asked.............
Spend your time, money and resources on making it "mechanically dependable"........... Forget the paint, body dings, interior, etc........... Focus on the "core" components that get that truck from Point "A" to Point "B"..... Doubtful a cop is going to pull you over because it just looks like a truck a poor working class guy would be driving..... Doubtful anyone would steal it...
Dependability:
New Heavy Duty (HD) Batteries,
Good Heavy Duty starter
Fuel conditioner additive.
What is the "Mission" of the truck ? Grocery store run or pulling a gooseneck with 30K# load ?
Hobo
Hey Hobo , yes i agree i will be focusing on the mechanical work first and then we'll see what i can afford !!
Look fine, I could barely see that little ding on the bed, Ford paint loves to shine, you can wash it up and add some wax and it will look like a totally different truck, if you use some mild compound and a buffer it will shine 10' deep.
I disagree on compound. I discovered "Clay-Bar" a couple years ago. It's amazing at removing embedded pits that adhere to paint. This lifts out the bits of tar and fine road sand, and leaves the paint clean. Unlike compound that removes paint and clear coat, clay bar is not damaging to the paint or its finish. I clay bar my rig 3-4 times per year, just before the new wax goes on.
I disagree on compound. I discovered "Clay-Bar" a couple years ago. It's amazing at removing embedded pits that adhere to paint. This lifts out the bits of tar and fine road sand, and leaves the paint clean. Unlike compound that removes paint and clear coat, clay bar is not damaging to the paint or its finish. I clay bar my rig 3-4 times per year, just before the new wax goes on.
I really suggest you look more into it. While a clay bar treatment is good when prepped properly, ie MILD compound with a machine, it is not cost effective to clay bar as the "bring it back" method, clay works perfectly on a smooth surface, if you start off with a rough finish you will go thru $200 worth of clay to get to something half azz manageable, again, if you use of MILD compound all your going to do is remove the rough stuff, no paint or clear coat to speak of, that is if you know what your doing.
The degree of expertise is what makes a backyard detail vs a professional detail, in my 30+ years in the car business I have made quite a few cars shine like new, although I never took a shortcut.
Now if you want to do it perfect, I will explain, mild compound when the car is wet, the wetter the better, no discount auto compound either, good stuff. wash with no soap twice maybe 3 times to remove ALL of the leftover MILD compound, clay bar with a lot of water, again the wetter the better, I know this step wont make sense but you will understand if you follow, dry the car with clean micro fiber towels, once the towel is wet, its time to get another, wet the car with a fine mist, get out the wax and buff areas until the wax and leftover water is dry, it's ok to have a wax haze this will be taken car of. complete the entire vehicle. Now take super clean and super dry microfiber towels to remove the haze, get out the clay bar and some clay lube and lightly wipe/run the entire car, not to much force as the clay bar will do the job it is intended for without you pushing hard, do small sections to completion, as you finish each quadrant dry it with more super clean/super dry microfiber towels until you do ALL painted surfaces. Once complete once again wash with nothing more than water twice, now its time to add the ceramic coating or wax, either is good but ceramic will last 8 times longer than wax alone. If you follow the procedure you will have just saved $800, if not bring it to me with 10 hundreds and I'll make it shine like never before.
I'm a dealer, shine sells cars, been doing this for a long *** time, learned from the best.
My crew has made a hoopdie POS look 10x better than new, and many Lambo's and Ferraris look better than they should.
I believe you do it right or dont do it at all.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
$2500 sounds like a steal!
