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I am about to start my triangulated 4-link install. I am using the Ford 8.8 which has a cast housing. To set my upper bars equal length from center I would have to weld on bracket to the cast iron. Looking at the Welder Series web site I see they have done it from out side axle tubes to a bracket across the frame. I kind of think this is what I will need to so I can weld to the axle tubes and not the cast iron. Are there advantages to doing this one way or the other? Does anyone have pics of their 8.8 and triangulated 4 link? Thanks
Welding to cast iron is not very feasible. It takes a special knowledge and process, and not recommended. If at all possible, weld to the axle tubes, not the cast section.
I welded to the axle tubes like your picture. The only down side i have is to get your angle from front to back, you have to have the bars pretty high to clear the driveshaft. If you have the truck really low, you will run into clearance issues with the bed floor. I have mine raised about 4 inches, and its still my limiting factor for suspension travel.
I welded to the axle tubes like your picture. The only down side i have is to get your angle from front to back, you have to have the bars pretty high to clear the driveshaft. If you have the truck really low, you will run into clearance issues with the bed floor. I have mine raised about 4 inches, and its still my limiting factor for suspension travel.
Thanks Nick. How low are you trying to go? I am using a F4 frame that sweeps up after leaving the cab. I am not trying to slam mine. My initial thoughts are I won't have to notch the frame but I will take a closer look when my brackets come in.
I welded to the axle tubes like your picture. The only down side i have is to get your angle from front to back, you have to have the bars pretty high to clear the driveshaft. If you have the truck really low, you will run into clearance issues with the bed floor. I have mine raised about 4 inches, and its still my limiting factor for suspension travel.
Nick, I just noticed your upper control arm brackets are really tall. Do they clear the bed ok on suspension travel?
Nick, I just noticed your upper control arm brackets are really tall. Do they clear the bed ok on suspension travel?
The tall brackets are my limiting factor for rear suspension travel even with my raised bed floor. I had to make them that tall to get the angle I wanted on the upper bars. The truck is pretty low, but not crazy.
Nice and clean JCB. Any worries about suspension travel? I don't want to notch mine either but I have an F4 frame and it is upswept from the cab back.. I think I will be ok.
I checked the suspension travel as I installed using the full compression of the springs/shocks I chose. Actually fitted a bump stop between the frame and axle. I did discover the lower shock mount position put the shock body too close to the frame so I had to make a plate to move it inboard.
I checked the suspension travel as I installed using the full compression of the springs/shocks I chose. Actually fitted a bump stop between the frame and axle. I did discover the lower shock mount position put the shock body too close to the frame so I had to make a plate to move it inboard.
Thanks for those pictures. What you did is what I had going on in my mind. I like your stance. I don't want mine slammed on the ground.
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