Purchase Advice / Preventative Maintenance
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2021
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Any time is a good time to do the head studs. It's been a while but I believe you can do it any time you are removing the valve covers. The valve covers don't have to come off to do the oil cooler, but you'll have everything else off, so it would be a good time. Also, if you don't have a reason to remove the heads, don't - you can swap the head bolts for head studs one at a time without causing issues.
No, the sensors are not easy to get at unless you pull the turbo. It can be done without pulling the turbo (I've done it) but you'd better have someone with small hands to unplug the wiring connectors, the special socket they sell or one you don't mind cutting down, and a lot of extensions. I definitely suggest replacing them sooner rather than later despite the expense - I replaced one on my '03 at 125k that failed, my '04 was at 125k and was starting to weep, and my granddad's was at 125k when it failed on his...I think '05?
Also, I don't know if you've ever been told this, but DO NOT let the batteries in a 6.0 die. At the first inkling the batteries are getting weak, replace them. If they get too weak, there is a strong chance they will also damage the FICM, which is not a situation you want to be in.
No, the sensors are not easy to get at unless you pull the turbo. It can be done without pulling the turbo (I've done it) but you'd better have someone with small hands to unplug the wiring connectors, the special socket they sell or one you don't mind cutting down, and a lot of extensions. I definitely suggest replacing them sooner rather than later despite the expense - I replaced one on my '03 at 125k that failed, my '04 was at 125k and was starting to weep, and my granddad's was at 125k when it failed on his...I think '05?
Also, I don't know if you've ever been told this, but DO NOT let the batteries in a 6.0 die. At the first inkling the batteries are getting weak, replace them. If they get too weak, there is a strong chance they will also damage the FICM, which is not a situation you want to be in.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 130
From: Missouri
What does your slide in camper weigh? With a SRW you will likely be over weight. You might be in dually territory.
The 6.0 is a high maintenance engine and diesel parts are very expensive. Considering you know the owner and the price is decent I would recommend buying it if you had a house or apartment. Just know you'll be wrenching on it a lot and you'll be spending lots of money.
However, if you plan to live in it you will be doing all your repairs in parking lots or paying someone big bucks. If you live in the truck you will be up **** creek when the truck is in the shop for 2+ weeks waiting on parts.
I lived in my minivan for a few months last year (AMA) while traveling for work. I have a garage to do all my wrenching and a 2nd backup vehicle. I would NOT want an unreliable vehicle with 10,000 sensors and other things to go wrong.
If I were to full time live in a vehicle I would purchase an E250. 2wd is very simple to maintain and Econoline parts are cheap and available. Worst case scenario, let's say you have an expensive repair. You can just dump the vehicle and buy another. They're super cheap in the midwest.
The 6.0 is a high maintenance engine and diesel parts are very expensive. Considering you know the owner and the price is decent I would recommend buying it if you had a house or apartment. Just know you'll be wrenching on it a lot and you'll be spending lots of money.
However, if you plan to live in it you will be doing all your repairs in parking lots or paying someone big bucks. If you live in the truck you will be up **** creek when the truck is in the shop for 2+ weeks waiting on parts.
I lived in my minivan for a few months last year (AMA) while traveling for work. I have a garage to do all my wrenching and a 2nd backup vehicle. I would NOT want an unreliable vehicle with 10,000 sensors and other things to go wrong.
If I were to full time live in a vehicle I would purchase an E250. 2wd is very simple to maintain and Econoline parts are cheap and available. Worst case scenario, let's say you have an expensive repair. You can just dump the vehicle and buy another. They're super cheap in the midwest.
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2021
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- FORD ORIGINAL ENGINE OIL COOLER 6.0 Diesel Kit-3C3Z-6A642-CA
- Bulletproofdiesel EGR Cooler + Appropriate Gasket kit
- Ford 4C3Z-9B246-F Fitting Update Kit
- 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade,Ford Blue Spring Kit 6.0 Powerstroke Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
- Stant 10238 Radiator Cap - 16 PSI
- OEM Ford / Motorcraft Set of 8PC ZD-13 4C3Z-12A342-AA Diesel Glow Plugs 04 - 10 Ford 6.0L + Harness
- Mishimoto MMCFK-F2D-03BL Coolant Filter Kit + Rotella ELC Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrate ( 2 concentrated gallons)
- Genuine Ford 6E7Z-9A332-B Fuel Supply Tube (STANPIPE + DUMMY)
-Schaeffer's #700 SynShield Durability Advantage 15W-40 4 gallons + Motorcraft FL2016 Oil Filter
- Motorcraft FD-4616 Fuel Filter
- Motorcraft FA1778 Air Filter
Some further updates to the list
- Motorcraft Injector Control Pressure Sensor (ICP) | 6.0L Ford Powerstroke
- New OEM Ford Motorcraft CM5126 Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator Free FedEx 2Day
- Genuine Ford Oil Pressure Sending Unit F81Z-9278-AA
- 4x LT275/70R18 125/122R E MICHELIN DEFENDER LTX M/S
I have been watching Stage 1 bullet proofing for days , i am actually starting to learn the car and understand whats going on, i was even thinking about joining an online course or two to teach myself the basics of maintenance on the diesel motor, but thats another topic for another day.
I will not be adding ARP studs at this time, im not sure if i can afford it
Please let me know if anyone has any more advice on something they feel cannot be skipped under any circumstances , thanks a lot guys
- Bulletproofdiesel EGR Cooler + Appropriate Gasket kit
- Ford 4C3Z-9B246-F Fitting Update Kit
- 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade,Ford Blue Spring Kit 6.0 Powerstroke Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
- Stant 10238 Radiator Cap - 16 PSI
- OEM Ford / Motorcraft Set of 8PC ZD-13 4C3Z-12A342-AA Diesel Glow Plugs 04 - 10 Ford 6.0L + Harness
- Mishimoto MMCFK-F2D-03BL Coolant Filter Kit + Rotella ELC Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrate ( 2 concentrated gallons)
- Genuine Ford 6E7Z-9A332-B Fuel Supply Tube (STANPIPE + DUMMY)
-Schaeffer's #700 SynShield Durability Advantage 15W-40 4 gallons + Motorcraft FL2016 Oil Filter
- Motorcraft FD-4616 Fuel Filter
- Motorcraft FA1778 Air Filter
Some further updates to the list
- Motorcraft Injector Control Pressure Sensor (ICP) | 6.0L Ford Powerstroke
- New OEM Ford Motorcraft CM5126 Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator Free FedEx 2Day
- Genuine Ford Oil Pressure Sending Unit F81Z-9278-AA
- 4x LT275/70R18 125/122R E MICHELIN DEFENDER LTX M/S
I have been watching Stage 1 bullet proofing for days , i am actually starting to learn the car and understand whats going on, i was even thinking about joining an online course or two to teach myself the basics of maintenance on the diesel motor, but thats another topic for another day.
I will not be adding ARP studs at this time, im not sure if i can afford it
Please let me know if anyone has any more advice on something they feel cannot be skipped under any circumstances , thanks a lot guys
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,136
Likes: 1,653
What does your slide in camper weigh? With a SRW you will likely be over weight. You might be in dually territory.
The 6.0 is a high maintenance engine and diesel parts are very expensive. Considering you know the owner and the price is decent I would recommend buying it if you had a house or apartment. Just know you'll be wrenching on it a lot and you'll be spending lots of money.
However, if you plan to live in it you will be doing all your repairs in parking lots or paying someone big bucks. If you live in the truck you will be up **** creek when the truck is in the shop for 2+ weeks waiting on parts.
I lived in my minivan for a few months last year (AMA) while traveling for work. I have a garage to do all my wrenching and a 2nd backup vehicle. I would NOT want an unreliable vehicle with 10,000 sensors and other things to go wrong.
If I were to full time live in a vehicle I would purchase an E250. 2wd is very simple to maintain and Econoline parts are cheap and available. Worst case scenario, let's say you have an expensive repair. You can just dump the vehicle and buy another. They're super cheap in the midwest.
The 6.0 is a high maintenance engine and diesel parts are very expensive. Considering you know the owner and the price is decent I would recommend buying it if you had a house or apartment. Just know you'll be wrenching on it a lot and you'll be spending lots of money.
However, if you plan to live in it you will be doing all your repairs in parking lots or paying someone big bucks. If you live in the truck you will be up **** creek when the truck is in the shop for 2+ weeks waiting on parts.
I lived in my minivan for a few months last year (AMA) while traveling for work. I have a garage to do all my wrenching and a 2nd backup vehicle. I would NOT want an unreliable vehicle with 10,000 sensors and other things to go wrong.
If I were to full time live in a vehicle I would purchase an E250. 2wd is very simple to maintain and Econoline parts are cheap and available. Worst case scenario, let's say you have an expensive repair. You can just dump the vehicle and buy another. They're super cheap in the midwest.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,136
Likes: 1,653
If they died while it was just sitting not being used, then you're likely okay. It is more a weak battery issue and attempting to start it that will kill the FICM (low voltage). I would recommend, if the batteries are/were dead, that you just replace them. Look for a minimum of 850 CCA for your replacements.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
If they died while it was just sitting not being used, then you're likely okay. It is more a weak battery issue and attempting to start it that will kill the FICM (low voltage). I would recommend, if the batteries are/were dead, that you just replace them. Look for a minimum of 850 CCA for your replacements.
the truck started up really well after the battery charged again, hopefully theyre ok
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 396
Likes: 10
From: Fort Mill SC
a 6.0 that has made it to 100k is probably one of the good ones, while they have and have had their head gasket problems with all the other issues, maybe drive it a bit and get used to it befpre you start sinking money into it, most shops charge around $6k to bulletproof, based on your description;
Purchase price $2500
Bulletproofing $6000
Interior $2000
Body/paint $1500
you will have 12500 in a truck thats worth $8-$10k, on the flip side could you buy one that will be bulletproofed and in great condition inside and out as well as knowing the history of it, hard to say.
Any (ALL) used vehicle purchases are a gamble, the best looking, taken care of with full maintenance history can blow up the next day.
I'd buy the truck for sure, at $2500 if you do nothing more than drive it and it blows up you can part it out and double your money fairly quickly.
Purchase price $2500
Bulletproofing $6000
Interior $2000
Body/paint $1500
you will have 12500 in a truck thats worth $8-$10k, on the flip side could you buy one that will be bulletproofed and in great condition inside and out as well as knowing the history of it, hard to say.
Any (ALL) used vehicle purchases are a gamble, the best looking, taken care of with full maintenance history can blow up the next day.
I'd buy the truck for sure, at $2500 if you do nothing more than drive it and it blows up you can part it out and double your money fairly quickly.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
a 6.0 that has made it to 100k is probably one of the good ones, while they have and have had their head gasket problems with all the other issues, maybe drive it a bit and get used to it befpre you start sinking money into it, most shops charge around $6k to bulletproof, based on your description;
Purchase price $2500
Bulletproofing $6000
Interior $2000
Body/paint $1500
you will have 12500 in a truck thats worth $8-$10k, on the flip side could you buy one that will be bulletproofed and in great condition inside and out as well as knowing the history of it, hard to say.
Any (ALL) used vehicle purchases are a gamble, the best looking, taken care of with full maintenance history can blow up the next day.
I'd buy the truck for sure, at $2500 if you do nothing more than drive it and it blows up you can part it out and double your money fairly quickly.
Purchase price $2500
Bulletproofing $6000
Interior $2000
Body/paint $1500
you will have 12500 in a truck thats worth $8-$10k, on the flip side could you buy one that will be bulletproofed and in great condition inside and out as well as knowing the history of it, hard to say.
Any (ALL) used vehicle purchases are a gamble, the best looking, taken care of with full maintenance history can blow up the next day.
I'd buy the truck for sure, at $2500 if you do nothing more than drive it and it blows up you can part it out and double your money fairly quickly.
hey fatz , yeah i appreciate this info.
The truck actually has 165k miles , if you have a minute , check this thread for some pics
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1649972-project.html
im doing stage 1 bulletproof so my parts came out to about $1500 plus my friend is diong the labor so it wont be too bad
The truck is actually a 2006 Ford F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab LB 4WD with 165k miles
and from what i understand the Lariat is the top of the range , i checked out cargurus.com and a few other sites and ive seen these going for 15-17k in good condition , im excited for this project
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