Hope all is well, this is my first post

So i decided to move out of my APT in the city , sell everything i own and live in my truck camper full time. A family member has a 2006 F350 SRW Super Duty Lariat with about 100k miles on it, its been sitting for a couple years , needed some body work , a new interior, a upper right control arm , and there is an oil leak

He's willing to sell me the truck for only $2500 which i know is a very generous price, from what ive seen, in mint condition these trucks can sell well over 10k

- The body shop quoted us $1500 to get it into reasonable shape, fix the dents, and put a new bed in

- The interior may cost me 1500-2000k depending on how nice i want it

- The control arm wont cost much

But the oil leak worries me, ive also been reading a lot about this "bulletproofing" , and thats definitely a concern as well. I read that i may be able to 'semi bulletproof" for a much more affordable price. I have been told the car runs "perfectly" so im not sure if its worth it to start buying stuff i may not need?

I also want to due a tune up since it sat for a while, an oil change, and im curious to see what other stuff you guys think may ne needed?

Also - what do you think about this price ?

Thanks a lot
Adam

 

What engine is in it? Outside of the oil leak, how does it run? A sitting vehicle that hasn't been running would comsern me. If it's mechanically sound the price is very good but we don't see under the truck, if it's full of cancer (if it lived where roads are salted).

I would make it machanically sound and replace whatever suspension and brake components are worn. Then make her pretty on the inside. The outside depends on how bad it is. Probably save your money for future emergency repairs.

-- Dave

 

Dave !

Its a 6.0 Diesel Power Stroke

My cousin tells me it runs perfect

I havent had a chance to inspect the frame yet for rust but at this price , i feel like i have to take my chances?

Plus its my family selling me the car so i know he wouldnt knowingly screw me over


I hear what you're saying though, there is no point in me to speculate what i need or dont need until a thorough inspection is done

 

Welcome...... You bring some interesting questions for a discussion.

To start with, I have two questions:
Will you be able to pay CASH for the truck (including current repairs / updates) ?
Are you "Mechanically Inclined" ?

So, you have a 15 year old truck with 100k miles on it.... A very "general" statement...... With top notch maintenance you should get another 100k miles out of it. I have lived and worked "on the road" in an RV for many years... Your biggest obstacle is having a place (RV park, relatives barn, NAPA Parking lot, etc) to perform routine maintenance. Have you considered this?

Hobo

 

If you already have a camper skip the cosmetics and focus on mechanicals.
if you don’t have a camper already get a used cargo van and add amenities - much easier to stealth sleep without police knocking on your door at 2am.

 

Google "Ford 6.0 diesel problems".

Serving suggestion.

 

Well...
@David_h
You have opened up the "Full time RVing Debate"..... LOL .... Let's "agree to disagree" about the perfect vehicle for full time RVing... We need more input from the OP on what his mission is.... Staying in RV parks, Boondocking, etc.. A truck camper allows him to pull a boat or utility trailer... Also allows him to unload the camper and haul things in the truck... Stealth camping in a van has many plus and minus points.. Pulling a small RV (bumper hitch) also gives many options like using an SUV and not needing a truck.

As 85e150 (above) points out the Ford 6.0 had some weak links.. None of which can't be remedied.
https://dieselresource.com/diesel-re...ems-and-fixes/
Every owner / person is unique... For me, personally, if I could get that deal on that truck, I would pick it up and "bulletproof" the engine.... Again, this is not an option for other's.

Hobo

 

I do have the camper it’s a beauty, I appreciate this insight regarding the cosmetics vs the mechanical work, that seems like a more responsible plan

with the body work done, I may take it to my shop before going to the interior spot for the quote

hopefully my serving isn’t too big bc I deff can’t afford anything too expensive right now

appreciate you, I know I am getting a great deal, as long as there isn’t a huge mechanical failure in my near future. The camper is a traditional slide in truck camper which will be fixed to the bed using tie downs. It’s approx 17 feet long by 8ft wide

No mechanical experience but I have a friend who owns a mechanic shop (not a diesel expert) I am going to bring it to him and ask him to do a thorough inspection of the truck, hopefully it’s just minor wear and tear items, but again - that oil leak has me worried

 

hey hobo , I am paying cash for everything why?

and no I have no idea how to fix a diesel truck but I would like to learn

 

Explanation of my two questions:

We have a wonderful discussion going on "Buying a Used Ford Powerstroke". Many used truck buyers have to finance a used truck. When the truck breaks down they are paying both repair bills and a monthly payment... Many of those owners have no mechanical ability and are forced, again, to have repairs made at a shop or Dealer. Many sell their truck at a loss...... You are fortunate to find a deal on a truck with only 100k miles on it.

When a new person comes on the board and says "I'm looking at buying a XXXX truck". Those are two questions that get asked upfront.

Hobo

 

gotcha , yes it appears from my research that there is a lot to consider

 

UPDATE - after researching a lot and watching a few youtube videos on Stage 1 Bulletproofing - i have purchased everything i need to upgrade the systems that are prone to failure , here is a list of what ive gotten so far. please let me know your thoughts guys



- FORD ORIGINAL ENGINE OIL COOLER 6.0 Diesel Kit-3C3Z-6A642-CA
- Bulletproofdiesel EGR Cooler + Appropriate Gasket kit
- Ford 4C3Z-9B246-F Fitting Update Kit
- 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade,Ford Blue Spring Kit 6.0 Powerstroke Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit
- Stant 10238 Radiator Cap - 16 PSI
- OEM Ford / Motorcraft Set of 8PC ZD-13 4C3Z-12A342-AA Diesel Glow Plugs 04 - 10 Ford 6.0L + Harness
- Mishimoto MMCFK-F2D-03BL Coolant Filter Kit + Rotella ELC Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrate ( 2 concentrated gallons)
- Genuine Ford 6E7Z-9A332-B Fuel Supply Tube
-Schaeffer's #700 SynShield Durability Advantage 15W-40 4 gallons + Motorcraft FL2016 Oil Filter
- Motorcraft FD-4616 Fuel Filter
- Motorcraft FA1778 Air Filter

 

If you can afford the oil cooler relocation kit, get it - it will prevent you from having to tear everything apart again when/if the cooler plugs up, since the oil cooler won't be in the engine valley under everything else.

Head studs. Get them done. It's worth it.

Your list otherwise looks pretty complete for a 6.0, though I would also recommend having the injectors serviced and/or replaced, they can have issues. And unless you're running full synthetic, a lot of guys will run Archoil AR9100 friction modifier to eliminate stiction in the injectors.

Since you're at about 100k on that motor, I also suggest replacing the ICP and IPR. These tend to fail at about 125k miles in my experience (oil will begin leaking out through the plastic and down the back side of the motor). ONLY replace them with Motorcraft sensors. For whatever reason aftermarket ones don't work as well.

 

really appreciate this info , im glad i made a good list

I been looking at the stuff you recommend i add , here's the thing - the bolts are going to cost me $400 plus , the sensors another $300 plus .....

i would really like to avoid buying those now if its possible? are the sensors easy to get to if they fail later?

As far as the bolts - when the engine is opened to do the EGR / Oil Cooler - will there be easy access to upgrade the bolts at that time? or will it require a lot more work? thanks a lot!

 

Any time is a good time to do the head studs. It's been a while but I believe you can do it any time you are removing the valve covers. The valve covers don't have to come off to do the oil cooler, but you'll have everything else off, so it would be a good time. Also, if you don't have a reason to remove the heads, don't - you can swap the head bolts for head studs one at a time without causing issues.

No, the sensors are not easy to get at unless you pull the turbo. It can be done without pulling the turbo (I've done it) but you'd better have someone with small hands to unplug the wiring connectors, the special socket they sell or one you don't mind cutting down, and a lot of extensions. I definitely suggest replacing them sooner rather than later despite the expense - I replaced one on my '03 at 125k that failed, my '04 was at 125k and was starting to weep, and my granddad's was at 125k when it failed on his...I think '05?

Also, I don't know if you've ever been told this, but DO NOT let the batteries in a 6.0 die. At the first inkling the batteries are getting weak, replace them. If they get too weak, there is a strong chance they will also damage the FICM, which is not a situation you want to be in.