I tried to change the fuel filter on my 1997 ranger xlt supercab with a 4.0 v-6 and had no luck. To the best of my knowledge I de-pressurized the tank/line. I even at one point unhooked the electrical at the inertia switch. No matter what I do, I can't seem to get the line closest to the motor to come off the old filter. The other line comes right off. To make matters worse, the same thing happened when I went to put the filter on my 1996 explorer with a 4.0 v-6. What am I doing wrong? I'm starting to get a complex about this. Can someone give me step by step instructions, or at least let me know if they have had similar problems and what they did about it. Thank you.

 

Jeff, I think you might need a special tool to get that fuel line off ...try doing a search of this forum and it should turn up a few past threads on the subject with a lot of helpful information.


Good luck, and welcome to FTE!

 

Like rock said, if you have the metal line you have to have the tool. They're avail at the parts stores and slide down to release the spring. Can't do it w/out it.

 

Yeah, stepmans right, theyre like 10 bucks for a set of like 6 of them, i didnt need them when i replaced my fuel filter, because mine had the rubber line with the plastic clips that you just pull off.

 

Welcome to FTE jm8541,
Mine was also like Peter94's, the "Hairpin Clip" type (used on 3/8"+5/8" tubing) where you just pull then straight out.
Aparently you have the "Duck Bill" type (used on 1/4" tubing) which you need a tool for removal.
Be extra careful with reinstallation, there are O-rings+spacers inside of the body, (almost left 1 out one on my fuel injected...possible KA! BOOM!)
All info as per my Haynes Repair Manual!
______________________________________________
‘90 Ranger: 2.3L, EEC-IV, EFI, DIS, 2wd, Mazda 5sp

 

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago trying to replace the filter on my '99 B4000 4.0L which is identical to your Ranger. You can search some of the threads to see the issues I had.

As folks have previously said, you have the "duckbill" type connectors that require a special tool to remove the slip-joint connection. There are different brands and versions of the tool you need. Some are metal like a set of scissors that open up and clamp around the fuel line then you slide it forward and others are a set of plastic washers that are split and slip onto the fuel line. I tried three different versions and found the plastic washers that usually come packaged as a set of different sizes ranging from about 1/4" up to about an 1" worked best. You will probably need the 3/8" size. The metal scissor type would not work at all for me. I found two brands of the plastic washers and the one with the deeper lips worked best. Where I live, AutoZone and NAPA sell the plastic tools and Advance sells the metal tool that didn't work for me.

You will need to de-pressurize your fuel system then slip the tool on and slide it toward the filter. You will hear or feel a noticable "click" as it releases. Sometimes you just have to jiggle and try it several times.

On one side of my filter no matter what I did I could not get it to come loose. I had to eventually cut my fuel line and splice a new connector onto it. There is another thread about that. The connector kit I used supplied a barb fitting that was too small and I had to get a larger one at a home store to work. As mentioned, that is described in another thread.

One thing I also discovered is that the NAPA stores in my area sell the replacement parts for the connectors. There is a little "O" ring and a metal, sort of triangular shaped clip inside the connector on your fuel line. If you damage these, they are replaceable.