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I need radio capacitors, but I know next to nothing about them. I do know I need four of them: Generator capacitor FAA-18827-A, Voltage Regulator capacitor M-18832, Fuel Gauge capacitor 51AF-18871 and Oil Gauge capacitor 8M-18826.
I also know I can't find any for sale listings for any of these capacitors.
And, I know that capacitors are measured in microfarads (mf), and that a capacitor of one farad produces a potential difference of one volt between its plates when it stores an electric charge of one coulomb. Good stuff...?
What I don't know is the mf measure of each of the capacitors I listed above, nor if there is a replacement for them. Any help on either finding NOS capacitors, or modern replacements for them?
Do you "need" them because this a period correct restoration sort of thing you want them for appearance sake or, you really need to kill RFI? it's the former you'll need Ford part #s. Electrically, a modern 600 or 1000 volt 0.5uF poly film cap should work well.
Do you "need" them because this a period correct restoration sort of thing you want them for appearance sake or, you really need to kill RFI? it's the former you'll need Ford part #s. Electrically, a modern 600 or 1000 volt 0.5uF poly film cap should work well.
A little of both. I have not installed the radio yet so I don’t know the level of interference that may take place.
My restoration is 100% stock and I’d like the two caps that are visible to be period correct - those at the generator and the voltage regulator.
All four have a mounting base for ground and a single wire.
I thought those part numbers I listed are Ford #s, but let me check again. Thanks for your help!
Do you "need" them because this a period correct restoration sort of thing you want them for appearance sake or, you really need to kill RFI? it's the former you'll need Ford part #s. Electrically, a modern 600 or 1000 volt 0.5uF poly film cap should work well.
One problem is capacitors of this type construction can become defective just sitting on the shelf due to age. Eventually, they absorb humidity or corrode internally. And they are kind of hard to find, and/or expensive.
It would probably be better to experiment first using modern film caps and the radio to see how much RFI noise suppression is actually necessary. Even these high voltage film caps are getting a little harder to find because high voltage DC isn't seen much in electronics the way it was. While tempting, the metalized film types - very small - won't work in this application. The caps want will be fairly chunky. But 0.5 to say 1.0uF in the range of 600 to 1000 volts should only be a few bucks for test purposes.
Ted makes a good point. I work on and build guitar amps and NOS caps are a big problem, and when you’re working with 400+ VDC that’s not good.
What many amp techs do to retail the look is to drill out the old cap and glue a smaller modern cap of the same value inside. It’s works best with electrolytics, but I’ve seen it done with paper caps too.
edit...I almost forgot, you can find high voltage caps of many types at Antique electronics, tubesandmore.com is their web site. They may even have repro caps.
Bob, I use a (Don't Be Vague Ask For) Sprague "orange drop" at the armature terminal on the generator voltage regulator. Not really for noise suppression, it should help the vibrating points last longer. It also works fine as an ignition capacitor. Better than the el-cheapo condensers sold these days.
One problem with modern capacitors is they have solid leads, they will work harden and break quickly in this kind of application. That's why stranded wires were invented I suppose.
Bob, I use a (Don't Be Vague Ask For) Sprague "orange drop" at the armature terminal on the generator voltage regulator. Not really for noise suppression, it should help the vibrating points last longer. It also works fine as an ignition capacitor. Better than the el-cheapo condensers sold these days.
One problem with modern capacitors is they have solid leads, they will work harden and break quickly in this kind of application. That's why stranded wires were invented I suppose.
sprague manufactures at least 15 different types of caps with orange dipped exterior. Personally, I prefer either 715 or 6PS series, but Xicon MPP are small and rugged so I use them often.
I agree with the assessment on solid leads, they can be fragile when exposed to vibration. Often I’ll solder stranded leads to the caps when that’s a concern.
i think you’ll have a hard time finding exact replacements. these caps have one lead, and the ground is the case. If you’re running 6v + ground, you’ll need to find a cap with a positive ground.
I would find the value, drill them out and put a modern cap inside, then seal it up. The ground lead can be soldered to the case, hot lead to the existing wire.
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