Sorry - Another Modulator Valve Question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 214
Likes: 8
Sorry - Another Modulator Valve Question
After a couple months of running pretty well, by 69 Ranger with a 360/C6 began to shift a little strangely the other night. I was convinced it wasn't shifting into 3rd, but downshifting to 2nd told me that it had actually hit 3rd but was just too soft and too soon to notice. When getting it running, I picked up an ATP FX-102 which is described as "Adj. 10.5 - 13, Screw in, White" from Amazon and installed it. Like I said, it was running and shifting fine since August, but the kicker is, I don't recall ever seeing the rod/pin that everyone seems to be talking about. Unless the pin is still in whatever hole the modulator valve mates up to, there was no pin to transfer from old modulator to new modulator. So these are my questions:
Geoff
- Is there a better modulator that I should have purchased? Color?
- Do I have to drain the tranny to remove the modulator? Some say that nothing runs out some say that a certain amount runs out. The valve I have in there is dry when the vacuum hose is pulled off so I know the valve should still be good. I just want to be ready if I have to investigate if I have a rod or not.
- Should my modulator valve have a rod or not? Was this for certain years or was it for all years? If the answer is yes, I need to see if it is stuck inside of the hold the valve is screwed into, because by all opinions, the transmission should not have been able to shift at all, correct. If I do need a rod, I'll look around onsite for a welding rod and try making my own.
Geoff
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Joined: Jun 2020
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There is always a pin behind the vacuum modulator, and it's super common for them to fall out into your catch pan with all of the fluid when you take the modulator out. But if your trans didn't dump any fluid when you took the modulator out, it's possible it's still in there.
If you can't find it, you can take some TIG rod and cut it down to a little longer than the size you need. Put the rod into the back of the modulator and gently screw it into the trans. If you can't screw it in all the way, cut off a little more of the tig rod until it lightly seats in. There is a small bit of spring pressure in the modulator and you should feel that just barely pushing on the rod as you screw the last threads of it in.
If you can't find it, you can take some TIG rod and cut it down to a little longer than the size you need. Put the rod into the back of the modulator and gently screw it into the trans. If you can't screw it in all the way, cut off a little more of the tig rod until it lightly seats in. There is a small bit of spring pressure in the modulator and you should feel that just barely pushing on the rod as you screw the last threads of it in.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 214
Likes: 8
Thanks for the feedback. I'll go about fabbing one ASAP as I am 99% positive it's not there. Is a TIG rod any different in diameter than a regular ferrous stick welding rod? I've read that the rod should be 1/8" in diameter which seems awfully large to me. Some have said to use a coat hanger, which is more like a 1/16" but way too flimsy.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Original Ford part number was C4AZ7A380A. This rod was 1/8" diameter and 1.677 inches long. Rounded on both ends.
Haven Ford has 2. 1-620-465-2252
Klemish Motor Sales has 5. 1-563-562-3241.
Green Sales** has 8. 1-800-543-4959.
In the 70's Ford came out with a kit containing a few different length rods. One could adjust shift points a bit with this kit. Part number D8AZ7A380A.
NOS Parts Ltd has one kit. 1-972-937-2201.
Haven Ford has 2. 1-620-465-2252
Klemish Motor Sales has 5. 1-563-562-3241.
Green Sales** has 8. 1-800-543-4959.
In the 70's Ford came out with a kit containing a few different length rods. One could adjust shift points a bit with this kit. Part number D8AZ7A380A.
NOS Parts Ltd has one kit. 1-972-937-2201.
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